vhoang1102 Report post Posted October 30, 2015 Hi everyone, The first I want to give my greeting to everyone here. I'm a newbie and I'm going to learn how to make dress shoes. Can you list out all the handmade tool to make dress shoes (no include machine)? I want to buy these tools outside my country because I'm living in Vietnam and the tools are very poor quality. One more question: Can you show me the material to learn like website, video or book... Thanks so much everyone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Constabulary Report post Posted October 30, 2015 Xin chào - I´m not a shoe maker nor I have such tools but in case you like vintage tools then check Ebay Germany - there are dozens of auctions with tools. Your search words should be "schuhmacher" or "schuster". But please check with the sellers and ask if they would ship to Vietnam before you place a bid. A lot sellers do not ship international. Otherwise you may have some trouble with Ebay sooner or later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joe D Report post Posted October 30, 2015 Hi vhoang, I also make dress shoes with a minimalist toolset. It depends a bit if you are making welted or cemented, but I would strongly recommend cemented for you first few pairs of shoes. Trust me, it will save a lot of frustration! So here's what I use: Curved knife (I use this one: http://cordwainertools.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=190) Cement (Barge's is great) Whetstone or other sharpening stone Lasts (I use ebay and measure feet on a Brannock) Basic sewing stuff for upper: fine thread, small sized needle, scratch awl, compass Pattern making: Masking tape, posterboard, pencils French hammer (a regular hammer can work too) Wire nails 1-1.5" Rasp Broken glass (2mm framing glass if possible, a broken beer bottle can work too!) Sandpaper, 100 grit and 150 grit Lasting pliers are optional, but really do speed up lasting If you want to welt, you also need: Heavy thread and heavy curved needle (you can just curve it with pliers) A curved awl 1/4" brass nails or wooden pegs and a pegging awl And of course leather: 1.5-2.5oz kip or calf for the upper 3-4 oz shoulder or belly for the heel stiffener 5-6oz shoulder or belly for the toe puff (optional) 5-6oz belly for welt if welting, otherwise any weight is fine 8-10oz shoulder for the insole if welting, otherwise any weight is fine 5-6oz shoulder or belly for the leather shank Metal shank is optional, good for weak arches or heavy people Cork sheet (optional, can use more belly or shoulder) Sole bend. 10-12 iron is standard, I think that's around 14-16oz Two great blogs that helped me immensely are http://shoesandcraft.com and http://carreducker.blogspot.co.uk. http://cordwainertools.com has a great dvd on cemented construction if you order $100 of tools. Andrew Wrigley on YouTube also has a good video series, but with a few flaws (he is a hobbiest, the others I mentioned are professional shoemakers). If I were to start all over again, I would follow Andrew Wrigley's tutorial for the upper only, go to shoesandcraft.com to look up how to do a toe puff, and follow the cornwainertools.com dvd on how to do the rest. Hope that helps and good luck! Joe Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
vhoang1102 Report post Posted October 31, 2015 hi mr Joe, thanks so so much for your reply. can you share me your facebook or email? Can I contact you when I have question or problem when making shoes Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
