Source For Brass Ferrules

[savage_here]

I have some hand tools that I'm thinking of making new handles for. Basically a couple need handles that are more ergonomic for me and others just "need" nicer looking handles. I have some rosewood and bubinga blanks and am going to turn some in the near future.

Does anybody know a source for really nice brass ferrules? I'd like some similar to the ones found on Ron's or Horseshoe handtools.

Thanks.

[DeuceTrinal]

I have some hand tools that I'm thinking of making new handles for. Basically a couple need handles that are more ergonomic for me and others just "need" nicer looking handles. I have some rosewood and bubinga blanks and am going to turn some in the near future.

Does anybody know a source for really nice brass ferrules? I'd like some similar to the ones found on Ron's or Horseshoe handtools.

Thanks.

I've had nice results using brass compression nuts from the hardware store. The compression end lets you get a really nice rolled front edge that has a overhung lip, which gives a really clean look. You can use normal HSS tools (I use scrapers and a 3/8 fingernail gouge) to knock the corners off. You can also use a file (I do final flattening with a file), but do this carefully as holding the file improperly can end with the tang jammed deep into your wrist (tang away, file on the bottom of the work). Then sandpaper grits until you're happy with the finish - you can go all the way to a fine polish if you want, I stay at a nice soft brushed look with 4X steel wool. You have to turn the tenon to an accurate length, I usually turn it so I can just thread the nut onto the wood, then secure with epoxy in final assembly.

[Windy]

I've had nice results using brass compression nuts from the hardware store. The compression end lets you get a really nice rolled front edge that has a overhung lip, which gives a really clean look. You can use normal HSS tools (I use scrapers and a 3/8 fingernail gouge) to knock the corners off. You can also use a file (I do final flattening with a file), but do this carefully as holding the file improperly can end with the tang jammed deep into your wrist (tang away, file on the bottom of the work). Then sandpaper grits until you're happy with the finish - you can go all the way to a fine polish if you want, I stay at a nice soft brushed look with 4X steel wool. You have to turn the tenon to an accurate length, I usually turn it so I can just thread the nut onto the wood, then secure with epoxy in final assembly.

Great idea. I will have to give it a try. Why not make a handle for you file so you need not worry about the tang embedding in your wrist.

WINDY

[DeuceTrinal]

Great idea. I will have to give it a try. Why not make a handle for you file so you need not worry about the tang embedding in your wrist.

WINDY

A handle is a very good idea, often a requirement in many shops. I was just covering the bases for anyone who might read this and not know. For a simple small round part like this, the file can be held tang-away on the bottom of the work, preventing a catch or grab throwing the file towards the user. It isn't the only way, but it is safer if you don't know how to approach a lathe with a tool not supported by a rest.

For quick and dirty handles for less used tools, I've used copper or brass pipe or pipe couplers too.