leaky5 Report post Posted November 15, 2015 I am still learning with this, I can do fairly small pieces, but if I try to do say the last 60mm of the reverse of a 32mm wide belt (where the buckle goes) I end up taking chunks out of it. Is it down to the correct tools ? I normally use a Boker subcom 42, but that plays havoc with the arthritis in my fingers. Would I be better off with one of the square ended, wooden handled skivers (Japanese style ?) Do you bother skiving this part and the keeper to thin them out ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted November 15, 2015 I know it will sound strange but a small block plane works a lot better then the super skiver or any kind of knife. But for a really nice job, pick up the High tech splitter, one pass and done with uniform thickness. I know it's not in everyone's budget but I picked one up on Friday and it is great for smaller jobs Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bonecross Report post Posted November 15, 2015 French edge skivers can really come in handy and do offer much more control. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leaky5 Report post Posted November 16, 2015 Thanks for the tips, I almost bought a block plane and then remembered I had a new wood chisel in the shed. Gave it a bit of a sharpen and it has tided up my hack job quite nicely. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zuludog Report post Posted November 17, 2015 (edited) You can get various skiving knives; I have sometimes thought that a broad woodworking chisel would be a cheaper alternative, especially as you can pick them up cheaply at secondhand stalls Yes, search YouTube for 'japanese leather knife', there are a couple of good videos. You will also see that the key to these knives and skiving knives is to get them razor sharp. The usual technique is an oil- water- or diamond stone and a strop. Again there are several videos. Whatever you get, make a simple slip cover, both to protect the blade edge from damage, and to protect your fingers & other things from the blade edge! Edited November 17, 2015 by zuludog Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
leaky5 Report post Posted November 17, 2015 I also ordered an Olfa BTC-1 and that does the job really well and is quite cheap. Along with the fact it had replacable blades, that is perfect for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chief31794 Report post Posted November 17, 2015 One tip I'll share, is regardless what you use to skive, take your time and practice, it's better to make 20 small thin cuts that 1 big chunk. There is a finesse to skiving. That being said, I don't do nearly as much hand skiving as I used to because I have a bench skiver/splitter that I use to thin leather as needed. Chief Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nuttish Report post Posted November 17, 2015 I know it will sound strange but a small block plane works a lot better then the super skiver or any kind of knife. But for a really nice job, pick up the High tech splitter, one pass and done with uniform thickness. I know it's not in everyone's budget but I picked one up on Friday and it is great for smaller jobs What kind of block plane do you use? I can see a rabbeting plane working because the iron extends slightly past the edge of the body, but I can't see how a regular block plane works for this application. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted November 17, 2015 It takes some work but it does work and it's just a small 1 1/2" plane that I picked up at Rona. Doesn't work as well for anything thicker then the width of the blade but it is usable and better then using a disposable knife Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites