HorsehairBraider Report post Posted January 26, 2008 I have not carved for a very long time. In fact, when last I carved, dinosaurs still ruled the earth... I was pretty crappy at it anyway, so that was why I gave it up, but you are all so inspiring I thought I would try it again. However I can not for the life of me remember the tooling order for beveling. Sometimes you have areas that are very close to each other, but one area is supposed to be on top of, or in front of, the rest of the carving. Then you have another area really close by that is not supposed to be so high up in the carving - it's supposed to be in the background but still raised up from the actual background. No matter what I try, my beveler will hit BOTH areas at once - so which do I do first, the main part that is supposed to be higher in the carving, or the more background part that is not so important? Or does it matter? Also I wanted to ask about bevelers. Now, my carving is very little (of course) and my beveler seems HUGE (it is a Craftool B935) so I wondered if there is a place where I could get a truly tiny beveler. Or do you guys all make your own? Or do you use something else to get into those tiny little areas? Any help would be greatly appreciated... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClayB Report post Posted January 26, 2008 I think the general rule has been to cut and bevel the formost objects first, then proceed to the farther back objects. By doing it that way, you don't smash down the things in front when you bevel the things behind them. Beveling small objects will be difficult with large bevelers. You will probably want narrower bevelers for them. You can also use the figure carving bevelers in smaller areas, or don't bevel at all but use a modeling tool instead. If you are doing floral work, the steep angle bevelers used in Sheridan style carving are a big help. I don't think Craftool (Tandy) makes a steep angle beveler. Hidecrafter has a set in there Pro line of tools that I like for a mid level tool. They are checkered. Other than that you will have to either go to a custom tool maker or modify or make your own. There are people here that have experience with doing that. For tips on beveling, checkout Paul Burnett's October free online lessons here Painting Cow Robert Beard also has some good information on beveling at Pro Series tools Hope some of this helps. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
robert Report post Posted January 26, 2008 Clay is right on target... Tandy sells some narrower bevelers, but if you do small, tight sheridan work, the steep angle bevelers will be better - obviously with a flatter beveler, you squash down more of your other work. Barry King makes good steep bevelers for the money. Hidecrafters has some too... OR take tandy bevelers, and just make them narrower with sandpaper. Put the sandpaper on something flat and then just sand the sides down till it is as narrow as you want. i would probably use something like 400 grit or other fine paper so you dont take off too much and so it is still smooth when you are done. Then you have a narrow, but relatively flat, beveler. Narrow tandy bevelers won't be as good as getting some good steep angle beverers, but it would be a cheap way to start... or you could make some from scratch... but thats an whole 'nuther addiction in itself... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorsehairBraider Report post Posted January 26, 2008 Thank you so much Clay - that helps enormously! And Robert Beard even supplies tools, apparently - I have written him and hopefully he will send me his catalog, so I can get some of those tools. He was using bevelers I had never even heard of. Some of those tools are exactly what I need! And the Painting Cow tutorial helps out with not only order, but depth of the bevel as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClayB Report post Posted January 26, 2008 Bob does make tools and they are really nice, but you might need a warning so you don't get sticker shock. Bob's tools are expensive. You probably wouldn't want to just go out and buy a whole set from him (if you can afford to do that, get me a set too, PLEASE). I try and order tools for a certain purpose you cant get anywhere else, or the ones that I use a LOT. Even so, I only get a few a year. Bob is a great guy, a really good artist and teacher, and makes some really nice tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HorsehairBraider Report post Posted January 26, 2008 Clay, this is a great point, and perhaps I might ask yet another question? Just where on earth do you get tools, besides Tandy? For my whole life that was the only place I knew to get them. I have three of them still to this day. But I do not know where else to get them - so for the sake of any lurkers, (because I think my Google-Fu is up to the task), where do you get stamping tools for carving leather? And thanks, not just from me, but from all you lurkers out there who are too chicken to post. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ClayB Report post Posted January 26, 2008 Check out the links here for lots of suppliers of tools, leather and related items. Links to leatherland If anyone has a supplier that isn't listed here, send us the contact info. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
