One side double, one side single

[Shorts]

I'm working on a holster out of curiosity and I have to ask, but I think I've heard the answer before, is there a downside of using a double layer on the backside and only the single layer on the front side?

Will the thinner front side wear out any faster than if it were just single layer on both sides?

[Lobo]

Shorts: For me, the primary consideration would be the leather being used. For most of my work I use 8-9 oz. shoulders, which is a thickness of about 1/8", sufficiently strong for just about any holster for any weapon. For very lightweight pistols I frequently go down to about a 7 oz. leather, plenty of strength for the task, but significantly thinner and lighter, molds much more easily, and will retain its finished shape pretty well.

I don't recall having a customer over the past 36 years who has worn out one of my holsters. In fact, I know of several still in use after 3 decades.

So, I can see no advantage to using double thickness of leather.

[Randyc]

Shorts

I'm currently working on some beltslide/pancake holster designs. Some other makers use a thicker piece of leather on the inside (hipside) of the holster. I'm going to try using 8/9 oz. on the inside and 6/7 oz. on the outside. Of course, one piece wrap around holsters are made of a single weight. I've found the lighter weight molds easier with more detail. My tunnel/loop holsters have been generally made from the heavier weight leather with the excepetion of the airweight revolver and the small Kahr/Keltec polymar pistol belt holsters.

Randy

Edited December 7, 2008 by Randyc

[TwinOaks]

The only downside I can think of is the use of extra leather, and the additional sewing involved. The added thickness on the back of the holster will definitely stiffen it, so I don't think I'd go that route for IWB holsters. Unless, you've got some 4oz that you'll glue flesh to flesh. That I think would work well, as it would give (for a rough out holster) grain against the pistol and against the body.

[Shorts]

Thanks guys, it's a one piece wrap around type. I had to skive the inside piece since all I have is 7/8oz. But I think I would like to get some thinner pieces to line with the way I'm building this holster. I'll have pics up soon, I finished this one up last night and I like the way it wears. My concern is that the tunnel loop lasts and doesn't get floppy or loose. Can that happen on those types? Or am I worrying over nothing?

Mike, you're right, it does take more stitching. Oddly enough, building this holster was more pleasant than building it with the sewn tunnel loop lol

Lobo, thanks for input. I was hoping there wasn't a disadvantage to using a double layer (other than using an extra piece and stitching) like it would make the gun stress the single piece more than normal.

Randy, I definitely like the way the 7/8oz molds

[hidepounder]

The only downside I can think of is the use of extra leather, and the additional sewing involved. The added thickness on the back of the holster will definitely stiffen it, so I don't think I'd go that route for IWB holsters. Unless, you've got some 4oz that you'll glue flesh to flesh. That I think would work well, as it would give (for a rough out holster) grain against the pistol and against the body.

I'm glad you brought this up....I was just going to ask you guysabout this...if you couldn't use two pieces glued back to back. I would think it would be a much more nicely finished holster with the lining, I am not concerned about the glue holding, but what about molding...with the cement prevent you from getting a well molded shape?

Bob