drawingonblank Report post Posted December 8, 2015 Hi! So I've been working on a relatively newer Pfaff 335 machine and it's been getting the job done. After sewing an entire colonial style jacket out of leather and suede on a commercial machine, I finally upgraded; however, I'm beginning to think I'm making life harder than it needs to be by not using the correct settings for each job. I generally use a 17/105 or 18/110 diamond point needle for most things and the forum recently helped enlighten me about materials / needle / thread combos with the charts I found. I use a flat plate and the feed dogs in the pic below. I work on wallets, duffle bags, jackets, dopp kits and a lot of random luxury items. I even make soft leather holsters. After scouring the site and the manuals, I'm having a hard time finding good resources for what tools do what with my machine i.e. If I'm making a nice, burberry or cole haan type wallet with (fill in the blank type leather) (fill in the blank weight), I'd love to find some sort of 'standard practices' guide that answers: what needle and thread would I use? if binding edges, how to operate the edge binder and how to choose the size feeder etc etc what type of leathers are --typically-- used and what range of leather thickness? if skivving, how thin? when stitching zippers, which feet to use for the machine? I realize this just gets honed with time and each project is unique depending on the tastes but there has to be a guideline? I've figured out a lot thus far but it takes forever. Any help, resources, tables and/or charts are immensely appreciated! Thanks in advance! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites