Adler 267-Gk-373 Troubleshooting

[getzfamily]

Hi all,

I'm an upholsterer and have recently acquired an Adler 267-gk-373. I've only ever lurked here and never posted but I have learned quite a deal from some of your more experienced and consistent contributors. The issue I am having has however drawn me out of the shadows. I have not been able to make any progress with finding out a couple of things for the Adler.

First, the video:

Second, I have no idea where to start looking for the increased 'pressure/tightness' on the bottom portion of the needle bar stroke. I haven't encountered anything similar to this before.

Third, the stitch length doesn't match the markings on the cast iron casing.

Fourth, the reverse stitch doesn't match the forward stitch in length.

If anyone can help solve these I will put in a good word with Santa for you for this year lol.

[Uwe]

Make sure you spend some quality time with the Durkopp Adler 267 Service Manual.

The tightness/binding/rubbing may be caused elsewhere in the system, nowhere near the hook or needle. I had one machine where if I set the foot lift to the max, the wing screw was slightly touching the housing, causing a tight spot during the cycle. Sometimes a machine that's been used on one setting for very long time builds up crud or dried oil varnish at the end of rods etc., causing increased friction or apparent binding if you change the settings.

Oil every spot that needs oiling. Clean and oil any open moving surfaces that touch. Remove the motor drive belt from the hand wheel and loosen the foot pressure spring all the way for testing - there is some normal increased pressure as you compress the spring up during the cycle. Without spring pressure the handwheel should turn easily without "tight" spots - if not, keep looking.

Inspect and clean the gears if needed - perhaps something is stuck in the teeth that gets squeezed with every turn. I'd visually inspect all of the moving parts I can see (top/bottom/inside) as you turn the wheel. Look for things touching that shouldn't.

Since the feed mechanism is not quite right and not "centered" properly to give equal forward/backward stitches, that's a good point to start.

According to the manual, with the needle in the lowest position and flipping the stitch length lever all the way up and down, there should be NO forward/backward movement of needle/feet/feed-dog. If things move in that needle position your forward/backward stitch length will not match. Page 9 of the service manual has this section on how to adjust:

Eventually, you'll want to go methodically through most of the service manual front to back in sequence and check any applicable "rules" of the manual against your actual machine. Adjust things that don't match the rules.

Edited December 18, 2015 by Uwe

[getzfamily]

Ahhh Uwe I have to admit I was hoping you might chime in as I've learned so much from your other posts! Thanks for spring pressure and other tips, ill get investigating.

[getzfamily]

I couldn't find anywhere in the manual about the type of grease to use on the two cogs underneath the bobbin assembly. Mine was looking very mucky, black and thick and I'm assuming that's wear and not the intended product?

[Uwe]

I don't think it matters a great deal exactly which grease you use (oil is a different story). I'm using Tri-Flow brand clear grease which I got on Amazon, mainly because it's all synthetic, clear, and doesn't stain my clothes (Tri-Flow also makes good synthetic oil for sewing machines.)

My Chandler/Adler 67 machine had reddish-brown grease packed inside the hook gear casing (you can see it in my Adler 67 hook timing video)

Eric (gottaknow), our resident experts who maintains a factory full of machines, uses regular white lithium grease on machines in his factory.

Edited December 18, 2015 by Uwe

[getzfamily]

Thanks. I've ended up with a standard lithium grease (lithium 12-hydroxy stearate) just because of availability.

There's only one screw I haven't been able to crack at this stage and that's for the adjustment of the needle bar to enter centrally into the throat plate. I don't think it's been undone since manufactured and the needle bar is a fair way out so am going to have to buy one of those t handle allen keys to get it I think.

Hard to know where to draw the line once you start taking things apart haha...are all the concentric and shaft type joints just lubricated with oil? I'm tempted to take them all apart as there is a moderate amount of gunk that has accumulated around them which makes me question the state of the internal faces.

[getzfamily]

Made good progress with the machine, it's running really smooth now so I'm guessing there was just a sticky join between any number of parts that are now fully lubricated.

I still haven't had any progress with matching the stitch length. I've got the feed dog movement central and no movement on the feed dog when the needle is at the lowest point so my next step is uncertain.

Was going to put on a Reliable 6050sm Servo motor but the shipping to Aus is too dear to justify it unfortunately! So this is one of my local options (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-750W-Variable-Speed-Servo-Motor-for-Industrial-Sewing-Machines-/221873671944?hash=item33a8b38f08:g:NigAAOSwpDdVUqHd) hard to know but I think it'll be worthwhile.