Pancake Holster

[JRB]

I just picked up the Pro kit from Tandy tonight along w/needles, waxed thread and some cement. My first attempt will be a OWB pancake holster for a K frame revolver.

I've read until I'm almost cross eyed and still am not clear on a few things. First, when you cut out your front and back pattern do you leave some "play" where the gun will ride or do you lay the front & back flat together and glue & stitch. Unless I am not understanding right you're laying the 2 pieces flat, glue & stitch, then wet mold to fit the gun.

[Jordan]

Yes that is how most seem to be done. Unless you want more of the pistol to the outside of the holster which means the front panel is a bit wider than the back, at least that has been my experience. But I think there as many ways to do it as there are holsters out there! big help huh

[JRB]

Yes that is how most seem to be done. Unless you want more of the pistol to the outside of the holster which means the front panel is a bit wider than the back, at least that has been my experience. But I think there as many ways to do it as there are holsters out there! big help huh

So if I glue & stitch the 2 together flat against one another I will still have enough room to get the gun in and mold it?

I plan on having the cylinder and trigger guard inside.

Edited December 14, 2008 by JRB

[dbusarow]

So if I glue & stitch the 2 together flat against one another I will still have enough room to get the gun in and mold it?

I plan on having the cylinder and trigger guard inside.

The rule of thumb for an auto is to trace the outline of the gun and then add 1/2 the width of the gun to that.

Because the revolver's profile is not as simple as a semi-auto's it's not as straight forward but the idea is the same. There has to be enough leather between the stitch lines to wrap around 1/2 the gun.

Dan

[rickybobby]

laying the 2 pieces flat, glue & stitch, then wet mold to fit the gun.

That is how you do it. 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit.

This is how it went for me the first few times.....

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. When trying to get the gun pushed into the opening I realized I had the stitch lines to narrow. Put that one in a bag under the bench and started on another.

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. When trying to push the gun into the opening I realized I had the stitches to wide. In the bag it went! Started another.

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. To wide opening

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. To low cut on opening

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. To close, cuts for belt

• 2 pieces glued at stitching lines, sew it up, wet holster and start pushing the gun in and mold it to fit. To ugly but the gun fit!!

  I now have a "good size" box with my rejects in it but I keep them because they were my learning curve. Most of what I make now is workable and I have learned to avoid the mistakes I made in the past!!

Be sure and check for the tutorials by a couple of people "pinned" here on the forum. Search for "holster tutorial" and you will find them.

Good luck and post your results!!!

[BruceGibson]

I don't leave any "play." However, like Chuck Burrows and John Bianchi, I do start with manila file folders for pattern-making. File folders are a heck of a lot cheaper than leather, and you can get everything laid-out, and stitch lines pretty close by using them. Revolvers are tricky because of the diameter of the cylinder.

Once you've got something workable with the folders, you can then use them for your layouts on the leather. I've found that if I can get it right with a simple file folder, then I can translate that to leather and a usable product.

[JRB]

I think I've got it. The key for enough room is having your stitch lines the right distance from the outline of the gun. I would guess that forming both sides helps w/retaining the gun better?

I was thinking you started w/a slight "pocket" already, to where the 2 pieces were not touching. I don't think that's what you want though. Having the larger outline will give you the space needed to form around the gun.

Now to determine that spacing! I'm going to give the file folders a try.

Maybe I should start with an auto first instead of a revolver.

How do you get a sight channel in the holster so the front sight doesn't drag going in & out?

Thanks guys! More questions to come I'm sure.

Edited December 14, 2008 by JRB

[BruceGibson]

I think I've got it. The key for enough room is having your stitch lines the right distance from the outline of the gun. I would guess that forming both sides helps w/retaining the gun better?

I was thinking you started w/a slight "pocket" already, to where the 2 pieces were not touching. I don't think that's what you want though. Having the larger outline will give you the space needed to form around the gun.

Now to determine that spacing! I'm going to give the file folders a try.

Maybe I should start with an auto first instead of a revolver?!?

Thanks guys! More questions to come I'm sure.

I think you'll find the file folders real "user friendly." You can get your basic design down, then use your thumb and forefinger to "pinch" around the outline of the gun. This "pinch" will give you a good idea of your stitch line.

If starting with an automatic is an option, that's what I'd recommend. Keep in mind, I'm no expert, but given a choice, that's what I'd do. The autos tend to be more consistent along their length than a revolver. Again, it's the cylinder that requires additional space, and that can be a little tricky.

At the risk of being staked-out and set on fire, I'd compare autos and revolvers to Kate Hudson versus Dolly Parton. If you were making a swimsuit pattern for both, the Hudson pattern (the auto) would be the place to start. I'd have to work up to the Dolly pattern (the revolver).

[JRB]

At the risk of being staked-out and set on fire, I'd compare autos and revolvers to Kate Hudson versus Dolly Parton. If you were making a swimsuit pattern for both, the Hudson pattern (the auto) would be the place to start. I'd have to work up to the Dolly pattern (the revolver).

[rickybobby]

I think I've got it. The key for enough room is having your stitch lines the right distance from the outline of the gun. I would guess that forming both sides helps w/retaining the gun better?

How do you get a sight channel in the holster so the front sight doesn't drag going in & out?

Thanks guys! More questions to come I'm sure.

JRB,

Use a small wood dowel taped on top of the sight. It only needs to be about 3 inches long from the sight, sand the bottom flat to rest on the bbl. and taper it. When the gun is pulled from the holster there will be enough room that the sight will not drag.

Wood dowel, about 5/16th.s

[JRB]

Here's the start to my pattern. I wanted to get the cylinder above the belt, but that makes it ride way to high. I'm still not sure it wont' be too high but don't thinki I can move the belt loops up too much. Maybe I'll start a new thread when I get farther along.

Any suggestions are welcome!

[Jordan]

All great advise, there is a tipping point as to where the weight of the weapon is in relation to the belt loops, if the weight is to high above the belt the weapon will tend to flop out away from your side and tend to twist the belt, all about comfort and ease of use, my scrap bin is loaded with experiments also. Nice thing is each one gets better.

[TwinOaks]

Thumb strap. You musn't forget the thumbstrap, especially for the first few holsters. It makes the difference between a holster you can use until you get enough practice for an open top, and a box of 'almost right' holsters.

When I've made revolver holsters (pancake), I overlay the template with a folder and include a little 'dart' of the folder folded in on itself to allow a touch more leather for the cylinder. Then, mark the edges and cut out, glue, stitch, and wet form. The 'dart' I'm refering to is just a tiny little bit, maybe enough to insert a finger between the two halves (centered where the cylinder will be). It is worth noting that I form the exterior piece more than the inside, prefering something along (A) in Jordan's diagram. This method has allowed me to stretch the leather to get good details, but still be thick enough and firm enough for good retention.

[Lobo]

Please don't forget that your leather will stretch during the wet molding process. This is part of getting that snug fit that makes the difference in a holster. Personally, I am disappointed with any holster that I complete that will not retain the handgun when held upside down, and the pancake design adds to that by the belt applying constant tension to the handgun when holstered on the belt.

High ride is fine, maximizes concealability and all. But keep in mind that the pancake design also improves retention by applying pressure to the holstered weapon (being pulled into the body by the belt), so that if the revolver cylinder is above the belt line there will be very little retention capability in the finished product.

Weight of leather being used makes a huge difference. Personally, I make almost all of my holsters from 8-9 oz. shoulders. I make holsters for very light handguns (J-frame revolvers, Kahr autos, etc) from 7-8 oz. with good results. The finished holster, properly formed, becomes a structure to contain, retain, and enhance concealability of the handgun. Too light of a structure will not properly do any of these things with too heavy a handgun.

Also, your question about sight channels: the basic pancake design creates a natural sight channel (provided you have front and rear leather panels of equal sizes and form the holster correctly on the axis of the handgun). This can be emphasized, where needed, to accomodate oversized or very high profile sights.

Keep after it! Once you have finalized your pattern to one that works well, keep that pattern on hand!