Pancake Holster

[JRB]

Here's the start to my pattern. I wanted to get the cylinder above the belt, but that makes it ride way to high. I'm still not sure it wont' be too high but don't thinki I can move the belt loops up too much. Maybe I'll start a new thread when I get farther along.

Any suggestions are welcome!

[Jordan]

All great advise, there is a tipping point as to where the weight of the weapon is in relation to the belt loops, if the weight is to high above the belt the weapon will tend to flop out away from your side and tend to twist the belt, all about comfort and ease of use, my scrap bin is loaded with experiments also. Nice thing is each one gets better.

[TwinOaks]

Thumb strap. You musn't forget the thumbstrap, especially for the first few holsters. It makes the difference between a holster you can use until you get enough practice for an open top, and a box of 'almost right' holsters.

When I've made revolver holsters (pancake), I overlay the template with a folder and include a little 'dart' of the folder folded in on itself to allow a touch more leather for the cylinder. Then, mark the edges and cut out, glue, stitch, and wet form. The 'dart' I'm refering to is just a tiny little bit, maybe enough to insert a finger between the two halves (centered where the cylinder will be). It is worth noting that I form the exterior piece more than the inside, prefering something along (A) in Jordan's diagram. This method has allowed me to stretch the leather to get good details, but still be thick enough and firm enough for good retention.

[Lobo]

Please don't forget that your leather will stretch during the wet molding process. This is part of getting that snug fit that makes the difference in a holster. Personally, I am disappointed with any holster that I complete that will not retain the handgun when held upside down, and the pancake design adds to that by the belt applying constant tension to the handgun when holstered on the belt.

High ride is fine, maximizes concealability and all. But keep in mind that the pancake design also improves retention by applying pressure to the holstered weapon (being pulled into the body by the belt), so that if the revolver cylinder is above the belt line there will be very little retention capability in the finished product.

Weight of leather being used makes a huge difference. Personally, I make almost all of my holsters from 8-9 oz. shoulders. I make holsters for very light handguns (J-frame revolvers, Kahr autos, etc) from 7-8 oz. with good results. The finished holster, properly formed, becomes a structure to contain, retain, and enhance concealability of the handgun. Too light of a structure will not properly do any of these things with too heavy a handgun.

Also, your question about sight channels: the basic pancake design creates a natural sight channel (provided you have front and rear leather panels of equal sizes and form the holster correctly on the axis of the handgun). This can be emphasized, where needed, to accomodate oversized or very high profile sights.

Keep after it! Once you have finalized your pattern to one that works well, keep that pattern on hand!