cminer30 Report post Posted April 1, 2016 Hows it going everyone, I am working towards creating a mens belt, more towards the luxury end of things and had a couple questions about different aspects in creating it. If you could answer any of the following questions it would be a huge help to me! Leather 1. How many ounces would a decently heavy/sturdy durable leather be? (2-3 oz or 5-6 oz?) 2. If I had a lighter/thinner leather with a heavier/thicker core would the belt ware easier than if I had a thicker leather with a thinner? Stitching 1. Best type of thread for luxury stitching? I saw that most people prefer waxed linen over nylon but is one better for hand stitching then the other? 2. How long does it typically take to hand stitch a reversible belt. (ex Leather/Core/Leather.) 3. Does the choice of leather make hand stitching easier or harder depending on the weight, texture, hardness, or softness of it? Finishes 1. What are the best types of finishes you can put on a belt to protect it from scratching, water, and/or ware? Thank you for your time! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martyn Report post Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) 11 hours ago, cminer30 said: I am working towards creating a mens belt, more towards the luxury end of things If you are working towards that goal, probably the best place to start is to learn to saddle stitch I think. There will be quite a lot of practice required before you're at the luxury end of things. By the time you have that sorted, you will know the answers to your other questions. Edited April 1, 2016 by Martyn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnv474 Report post Posted April 5, 2016 Leather: 1) most belts end up 7-10 oz total. Depending on your core, this could be a layer of 2-3 oz and a layer of 6-7 oz, or, more simple, two layers of 4-5 oz. 2) A thinner exterior will seem softer, yes, but thicker leather is more durable. I don't know what kind of core you hope for, but a simple nylon strap between two pieces of leather will prevent stretchn if that's the goal. Stitching: 1) Waxed linen is the traditional luxury thread, but many fine goods are made with synthetics as well. A popular option is the Ritza 25 a.k.a. Tiger Thread. There are many others. Fil Au Chinois or Lin cable are a very fine thread, and very expensive. They look very nice, however. 2) Expect it to take about 5-15 seconds per stitch, once you get the hang of it. 5 seconds would be fast, and with pre-punched holes. A 36" waist belt would be approximately 46" total length, and there is stitching down both sides, so just shy of 100" of stitching. A handsewn belt takes a long time. 3) Firmer leather is easier to stitch a straight line on if you are stitching by hand. Something like English Bridle leather is about the ultimate in leather for luxury and fine belts. Finishes: 1) A wax protective coat, such as shoe polish, will help protect the leather. Resolene, an acrylic finish, is a popular sealer as well. There exist many others, but you probably will want to try using a combination of those somewhere along the way. The fastest hand sewer I know can stitch a belt from end in under an hour, once needles are in hand. However, and this is a major point, this is using wide stitch spacing and the holes have already been made (and not included in that time). It could easily take a person most of a day. Hence, the pricing of handsewn belts. Equus Leather has some very nice videos on Youtube, which gives an idea of what goes into making a handsewn luxury men's belt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cminer30 Report post Posted April 5, 2016 Thank you so much johnv474. I am trying to learn the absolute most I can about leather while creating this belt. You were a huge help. I did watch Equus leather video on creating a luxury, hand stitched belt and it was truly amazing. Thank you again for putting this much effort into helping! Very much appreciated! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martyn Report post Posted April 5, 2016 I wasn't being flippant earlier, I think learning to saddle stitch is a good place to start. As John said, 100 inches of belt will take a couple of hours for someone who is fast, but fast takes practice. Accuracy and consistency is more important. Even if every other aspect of the belt is absolutely on point, a single dropped stitch in that 100 inches, and the belt is no longer a luxury item. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjmt Report post Posted April 5, 2016 10 minutes ago, Martyn said: I wasn't being flippant earlier, I think learning to saddle stitch is a good place to start. As John said, 100 inches of belt will take a couple of hours for someone who is fast, but fast takes practice. Accuracy and consistency is more important. Even if every other aspect of the belt is absolutely on point, a single dropped stitch in that 100 inches, and the belt is no longer a luxury item. I think its fair to say stitching a full belt well in a couple of hours needs years of practice - just so no-one has false expectations. Either that or Im an unusually slow learner anyway! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Martyn Report post Posted April 5, 2016 3 minutes ago, cjmt said: I think its fair to say stitching a full belt well in a couple of hours needs years of practice - just so no-one has false expectations. Either that or Im an unusually slow learner anyway! Well, that was my point really. I think the OP may be a little naive if he hopes to hand stitch a luxury belt on his first attempt - but you never know. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjmt Report post Posted April 5, 2016 8 minutes ago, Martyn said: Well, that was my point really. I think the OP may be a little naive if he hopes to hand stitch a luxury belt on his first attempt - but you never know. Indeed! I have spent quite a lot of practice time in vain if so :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
johnv474 Report post Posted April 5, 2016 Martyn, I wanted to say your earlier answer didn't sound flippant. Each of us has been eager to learn these skills, with a thousand questions, and an answer like yours helps to focus on the next few steps. CMiner30, to go along with Martyn's suggestions let me mention that you can make some nice belts that are made of one piece of very nice leather. The stitching is then done in strategic/necessary locations (near the buckle and loop), but because it is done by hand it really stands out. Don't get me wrong, I applaud your high aspirations, but a belt that is nicely finished front and back, with a nice crease alone the entire edge, and nicely burnished edges can be a belt that looks finer than most people regularly see. Don't be afraid to start with simple designs done well--they are classics. When you have completed one your are proud of, feel free to post it in the Show Off forum... and welcome to the hobby! -JV474 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
