johnv474

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About johnv474

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    Leatherworker

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    Indiana

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  1. johnv474

    how do you burnish oil tan?

    Oily leathers rarely burnish well. They also typically don't take a shine well. Tokonole works wonders, though. Some people use paint or edge kote-type products with varying success. Tokonole works better, for me. Usually you just have to fold the edge and sew, or sew thin leather to the edge to cover/bind it.
  2. johnv474

    What next?

    Of what OP had on hand I would use the neatsfoot oil and then the carnauba cream. Both are excellent. For the dye that came off, you may have some trouble applying more dye but you can try it. Or, you can use Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax in Black. (It is available in black and neutral). Use it very sparingly and let it dry for 30 minutes, then buff. Then repeat. Or, you can buy cream polish (usually sold for shoes). Tarrago shoe cream is good, Kelly Shoe Cream is very good, Saphir shoe cream is excellent. Buy some black and apply a lighrt coat, let it dry, then buff to a sheen. Then, repeat. If desired you can follow that up with shoe polish--too very light coats. Let the polish dry for 20 minutes to an hour, then buff with a soft cloth or horsehair brush. I like Lincoln brand shoe polish, then Saphir, then Kelly shoe polish, then Kiwi. Some people swear by Kiwi. After a good buffing, I wojld sral with two light coats of diluted Resolene. It'll be gooooood and black by then. Gum Trag will keep more dye from soaking into edge (slow it down, I should say), but you should still be able to get a good, deep black if you follow the above steps.
  3. I am one of the people that regularly recommends Lexol, so I'd like to add some thoughts. 5-10% neatsfoot oil isn't really the same as saying Lexol IS neatsfoot oil. Lexol contains neatsfoot oil (good), and water (good), and is also the correct pH for leather. It is superior to any individual oil, including neatsfoot oil, coconut oil, olive oil, almond oil, etc. The water it includes is good because leathers have particular moisture levels to be maintained, and processes like dyeing can dry it out. I put 5-10% sugar on my Raisin Bran, but that doesn't mean Raisin Bran IS sugar. For what it's worth, neatsfoot oil is often included in British Museum Leather Dressing, which was based on a 50 year long study of museum conservation of rare leather books. When you have priceless books you don't eant to deteriorate, you do your research to ensure they are well-protected. Additionally, if you own a Ferrari (don't we all?), or many, many other premium automobiles, Lexol, specifically, is the conditoner recommended by the factory. The patent that was awarded to Lexol was based on the property it has of not migrating out of the leather, unlike most of the other individual oils. My understanding is that Lexol is, effectively, a replacement for what was considered perhaps the best leather conditoner: whale oil, which is no longer legal. In the years that I sold leather conditioners and related products, I never once had a complaint about Lexol. It can be safely used on nearly every leather without discoloring or damaging it. It is among my favorite products (though, in fairness, there are many many good products out there, and most of them contain one or more of a dozen or so common ingredients). Frankly, I'm just glad it's not petroleum-based. It is not a waterproofer, however, just a conditioner. Thank you for looking up the MSDS. I found many, many useful MSDS reports from Weaver Leather's website, for lots of the common conditoners and products. That has helped guide my recommendations.
  4. Suede brushes are typically nylon bristles (more aggressive) or brass (curiously, less aggressive). It requires some pretty stiff bristles to fix the nap. At shoe stores you can buy a "suede and nubuck kit", which contains an eraser-type cleaner that helps remove dust and dirt, and then a brush to restore the nap. Fiebings makes one, and it usually is about $4. To clean suede or roughout, there are some specialty cleaners such as Lincoln EZ cleaner. My favorite, because it is an awesome all-purpose cleaner for delicates, is Angelus Foam-Tex. Great stuff! There also exist " Suede Renew" products, which are to help restore the color as well as protect or moisturize (I don't remember which). It is also available in Clear or Neutral (again, I don't remember which). Moneysworth & Best is one brand. Generally, they recommend using suede-specific dyes for suede or nubuck. (Note that roughout just means "flesh side out" and is otherwise just regular leather). I don't know the difference but they say regular spirit-based dyes will ruin the nap. Fiebings, amond others, have a line of suede and nubuck dyes that work well. I do not suggest spraying any cleaner or conditioner directly onto the veg split. Even something as trustworthy as Lexol (or worse, something like Mink Oil) tends to leave "splatter" marks from the droplets soaking in very fast when they first hit the leather. Eventually, they will dissipate and fade but it takes a while. I would suggest using a damp sponge or a damp soft brush like a horsehair brush to apply the product. If it were me, I would use Fiebings liquid glycerin saddle soap as a light cleaner and moisturizer to get the veg split damp and softened. I would let it soak in and dissipate for an hour or so, or overnight. I would then use something like Kelly's wax-free leather lotion or Lexol to condition. I suggest NOT using beeswax, carnauba, or any wax on the outside. You can apply lightly to the inside, but wax will make the nap stick together, like hair gel does. Note also, waxing suede/split is regularly done, and can look really great, BUT you specifically wanted to keep that nap/luxurious feel. Waxed suede looks a bit like a pullup leather in that it shows scratches and stuff (which fade and can look great as it develops patina). The scratches can be buffed away because you are warming and respreading the wax. Instead of wax, I suggest using a spray-type waterproofer and stain repellent and I would use a specific one. Do NOT use a silicone waterproofing spray because it will spot. I suggest tracking down Tarrago Nano Waterproofing spray. It has a silver can with a blue cap, IIRC. It's about ten bucks a can but look it up on Youtube--it's pretty awesome. If Tarrago Nano is not available then Moneysworth & Best also make a Nano (smaller molecules, better penetration). I would recommend doing two coats inside and out, drying overnight between coats, immediately after completing the bag or after the pieces are ready for final assembly. This will help protect them from stains and water spotting. Think of it like Scotch-gard, but for suede/split/nubuck (and also leather). If you get caught in a downpour, I would let the bag dry naturally with plenty of air (but no heat!) over a day or two and then touch up with a little more spray. Hope this helps!
  5. If you browse through this forum you will see more problems related to Eco-flo than perhaps any other dye. Maybe that is because it may be used with some of Tandy's lower quality leather offerings. Water-based dyes are not inherently bad. In fact they may soak in better...yet there are an awful lot of people asking these questions specifically about Eco-flo. I rarely see questions related to problems with preferred dyes such as Angelus or Fiebings pro dyes. I'm not going to be bothered with figuring out how to make something work when there are already suitable solutions for cheaper, that work better. Tandy should have done that before releasing the dyes... not that they actually research them except to find someone to package them and slap Tandy's name on there. For what it's worth, I love the pro dye Yellow and have never had problems covering one of my dyed projects with Neatlac... but I have answered hundreds of questions online and in person and the most frequent thing they have in common is Eco-flo.
  6. If you want to you can clean the leather with saddle soap and WHILE iT iS STILL DAMP, apply Lexol conditioner by misting it or using a DAMP sponge, putting the Lexol on it, and wiping the leather. It is important for both the leather and the sponge to be damp before applying Lexol (just a light coat, which can be repeated the next day but no sooner). Lexol will not darken your leather unless you slather it on. I don't know what is in Bick 4 but unless you know that it has NO waxes I wouldn't put it on roughout because it will ruin the nap. It's like using hair gel on your hair--it won't look normal anymore. That effect on the nap is why so many conditioners recommend against use on suede or roughout. The suede or roughout doesn't know that it is roughout so will absorb it all just the same.
  7. Tokonole doesn't stain. It dries clear. What it does is slightly resist the dye. You can be meticulous about cleanliness to minimize that effect, or use something else instead of Tokonole until after you have dyed it. Try CMC. It's awesome for smoothing the backs. It's not as good as Tokonole but doesn't resist quite as much. For edges, use hand sanitizer to smooth the edges, then dye, then apply CMC or Tokonole. If you don't want it to resist dye then just do your edges with water or alcohol or saddle soap.
  8. Both of those dyes are alcohol based. The regular dye is like Kool-Aid: alcohol and then the color is some powdered pigment. Because of this, when it dries it tends to leave a little un-absorbed dye on the surface of the leather. No problem--just buff it after it is dry, or clean with saddle soap. These dyes tend to dry leather out (imagine using too much hand sanitizer on your hands). To counteract this, be sure to apply some conditioner (a light coat), such as Lexol conditioner or neatsfoot oil if you prefer. The pro dye (which used to be called oil dye) is ALSO alcohol-based. It is the new and improved version of the original dyed. The main difference is that, instead of powdered pigment, it uses an oil-based pigment. Think of it as ink. Therefore it penetrates easier, and gives a more even coating. Because the pigment is oil-based, the leather does not dry out as much as with the original dyes. Indeed, it may leave the leather slightly softer. Color-wise, they are virtually identical.
  9. To be safe you can always use a deglazer (or, milder, saddle soap). There is no way to tell what has happened to the leather between the tannery and your hands. All it takes is someone with greasy fingers to have areas that don't dye easily. Usually the Pro dyes penetrate better than the regular dyes, and are more even. So I would look at the leather.
  10. This is a big question. Whether or not you can dye over an existing dye depends a lot on what else has been done to the leather. You can always try, but you may want to use something like deglazer, spot remover, or acetone to cut through any sealer they have. Eco-flo dyes are not very great. You can use them but if you look around here you will see more people asking questions about how to get them to work properly. I would recommend a spirit-based dye like Fiebings or Angelus. Resolene is an excellent sealer but it comes too concentrated. Dilute it 1:1 with water for better results, and give two light coats and not one thick coat. Unless you want to risk messing up projects I suggest moving away from Eco-flo dyes.
  11. Tan Kote was made for postal bags, i.e. undyed veg tan. Bag Kote is similar but for more types of leather. I have not used Tuff Kote but hear good things. Resolene is my preferred top coat, but it comes too concentrated and must be diluted 1:1 with water. The exact differences don't matter so long as you know what works and how to use them.
  12. OP needs to just replace the Eco-Flo dyes with a dye that isn't junk. Eco-flo is only good if you are in prison and can't buy spirit-based dyes.
  13. johnv474

    A bag named Grumpy

    Were you wanting the share the pattern? If not, this might be more appropriate for the Show Off forum.
  14. johnv474

    Hardening or molding garmet side.

    You can search reddit.com/r/leathercraft for hardening leather and you will find one study that suggests stearic acid. That said, stiffening a garment side is a little bit like buying cardboard and then trying to build a house with it.
  15. johnv474

    Tote bag hardware

    Ohio Travel Bag aka OTB sells purse feet.