johnv474

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  1. johnv474

    Talented YouTuber

    Go penguins! time to try a new distro
  2. johnv474

    Thread learning

    FYI the Craftool stitching chisels are marked and measured differently than about any others. They measure the space _between_ the prongs (but _not_ between the tips of the prongs). IMO, this is both confusing and useless. The Craftool "3mm" should be listed as 5 or 5.5mm. It corresponds to 5 stitches per inch and 1.0mm thread is a good match. Virtually all other stitching chisels and pricking irons are measured by the distance between the tips of the prongs, so 3mm equates to 8-9 spi, depending on the maker. That prefers a much smaller thread.
  3. johnv474

    Thread learning

    Tiger thread aka Ritza 25 is available on Amazon, Ebay, and Etsy. it is pricier but better than the Chengyida or other generic threads out there. it is a tighter braid, seems stronger, and has a better amount of wax on it. The cost of thread used per project is minor so I recommend buying a small spool to test it. The 0.6mm is good for 3mm irons IMO. 0.8mm looks good with 3.85mm irons and 1mm for 4-5mm.
  4. You could roll it up in something very absorbent like clean newspaper, or bath towels. Do not use bath towels washed with fabric softener because they absorb worse. You could wipe it down with solvent such as maphtha or nail polish remover, or clean it with Dawn (only) blue (only) dishwashing liquid. Only Dawn blue. It cuts oil and grease somewhat and will help lift some out. You could also buy the cheapest kitty litter you can find, which is made of a type of absorbent clay. Cover the leather on both sides (ie a layer, then leather, then another layer of litter). That is used for pulling oil stains out of driveways and works somewhat. You'll have a mess of dust to brush and clean off your leather later, but saddle soap should help with that. You won't get tons of it out but if you can get a fair amount out the rest will settle in and stabilize. When you are done with your project be sure to put on a good topcoat sealer and a water/stain protector spray. Those will help.
  5. johnv474

    Including Care Cards

    Be vague. No matter what advice you give, you will have people who take it upon themselves to argue with you about it. That can affect sales or create a rift with fans of other products. Don't recommend specific products from particular companies. If you include particular recommendations you also exclude all others as not making the cut. If you decide to try and pick a favorite you will a) go down a very deep rabbit hole, and b) isolate yourself from others. Being agnostic about it is about the most honest approach. I would suggest general instructions such as the following examples: "For a longer lifetime of service, here are some tips: Store when dry. If wet, allow to air dry. Brush off loose dirt and dust, which are abrasive to leather. You may also wipe with a damp, soft cloth. As needed, use a leather-specific cleaner followed by a light application of a quality leather conditioner. Apply waterproofing products as needed, if desired." People who already have products will use them and ignore your card. People who do not can Google one and pick one themselves. If you recommend one and someone takes the advice and doesn't like the result, you will hear about it.
  6. johnv474

    Yaqui Slide like Jeff Cooper used

    Who?
  7. No adhesive will make up for not sewing. If you want an adhesive for leather and fabric that is both strong and flexible, look for those adhesives used in shoemaking. Since shoes and boots have to flex and stay attached, those adhesives have been developed specifically for such an application. These are most commonly your neoprene-based contact cements: Barge APC, Masters All Purpose Cement, Du-All 88, Jet Set, etc. A quart should cost about $20, unless you shop at triple-markup retail hobby franchises. Weldwood is also a neoprene based contact cement and whoever said it dries rigid is using that terminology wrong.
  8. johnv474

    New to sewing

    You may want to post in the Sewing Leather forum. There are some knowledgeable folks there. I'd be surprised if a 110V motor could sew holsters. You can always sew heavier stuff by hand in the meantime.
  9. johnv474

    Flat (?) edge burnishing

    Tokonole is good, maybe better than CMC. Tokonole has a little wax in it that helps to shine the edge. CMC typically does not.
  10. johnv474

    Flat (?) edge burnishing

    The effect in the top pictures is from natural veg tan that had CMC (CarboxyMethyl Cellulose, I think) applied and then burnished by hand... meaning, using his hands. This is the work of a very talented artisan named Daisukenshin, I believe. He also only uses wing dividers and an awl--no stitch marking wheels or pricking irons or stitching chisels--as well as maybe a dozen tools that he has mastered, as opposed to hundreds of tools that he doesn't know as well. He is an incredibly talented leathercrafter, IMHO.
  11. johnv474

    SLC "oil tan" and yankee wax?

    Renia Yankee Wax. It is available from shoe repair supply houses such as Frankford Leather or Southern Leather. A triangular stick almost the size of a stick of butter should cost about $8.
  12. johnv474

    Double Welt questions

    Maybe post the same question in the Sewing Leather section? Perhaps more experienced eyes will see it there.
  13. johnv474

    Storing leather in small space

    I have used the USPS medium shipping tubes, which are triangular and 36" long, and keave one end open. They are available for free but intended for shipping. I do use them for shipping, and in doing so rotate out the ones I store leather in. They stack up and can hold large pieces of leather as well as small scraps of the same. The cardboard separates oily leather from dry leathers and it's easy to pull a particular piece out. I stack them in a closet and under a bed for longer storage.
  14. johnv474

    SLC "oil tan" and yankee wax?

    Yankee Wax is indeed very hard, but it will seal and shine the edges of even oil tanned leathers. It takes heat, though. We apply it with a leather wheel that spins on a motor and is coated in the stuff, then polish and smooth with a spinning brush. With a $5 candle warmer from Walmart, it can be melted and then applied with a scratch awl, pencil, or popsicle stick. It can then be smoothed/polished, section by section, with aggressive canvas rubbing and then lighter buffing with an old tshirt.
  15. I don't think Fiebings products are as commonly used with an electric edge creaser as much as some of the dedicated leather edge paints such as Vernis or Giardini. The best colors? Black and Dark Brown.