johnv474

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About johnv474

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  1. johnv474

    Sewing round hidden magnetic snaps

    I don't have a sewing tip but for marking leather I like the Stabilo All white pencil. It is made for marking glass and other surfaces but wipes off with a damp cloth better than most marking pencils I've found.
  2. johnv474

    leather suit case reconditioning

    Mink Oil, Neatsfoot Oil, and Neatsfoot Oil Compound seem to be the worst offenders for darkening. Lexol Conditioner is quite good. If you apply it to a damp cloth or sponge and wipe it down with an even, thin coat, let it soak in for an hour or so, and then repeat, then let it sit overnight, you should wind up with leather that looks, feels, and smells better but should return to its original color after soaking in. At first it looks a little deeper in color just due to the added moisture. Note: this is just for conditioning, not waterproofing. For waterproofing you may want to use a spray (not as long-lasting) or a soak-in version such as Dubbin or Sno-Seal, which are beeswax-based.
  3. johnv474

    Sewing round hidden magnetic snaps

    I think that picture is what OP wants to achieve, but OP did not include a photo of the results she is getting thus far. It's difficult to say how to get from here to there without it.
  4. It's a longshot to find something like this on short notice. I might recommend seeing if you can find a saddle maker or some shoe repair shops and call around. There may be some costume/wardrobe places that would be familiar with wet forming leather but the above two might yield a faster solution.
  5. I recommend a local shoe repair shop. They have the sewing machines that can handle sewing leather (and similar heavy materials). That should be your easiest route to a fix.
  6. johnv474

    veg tanned stretching and gluing question

    Not OP but most cements recommend that the leather be clean and dry. If you need it moistened I would dampen from the outside all over but on the inside everywhere but where the cement is.
  7. I am currently making a stand-up bag with a soft temper leather. I cut each panel twice the size, with an additional 1/4" to allow me to fold it over itself. I put a piece of firm canvas (eg denim) in between. A generous coat of contact vement and some careful folding later, and I have a thicker, firmer panel of that leather. I stitched along the top and it looks good so far. This is the approach any time I use thin, soft leathers but need a firmer panel.
  8. johnv474

    What is up with my bevelling?

    Yes. Give it a try, using your swivel knife only for decorative cuts. You may like the results.
  9. johnv474

    What is up with my bevelling?

    Skip the cuts. Improve your work by setting down your swivel knife.
  10. johnv474

    Bring back old antique leather to life

    Look up British Museum Leather Dressing and look up leather conservation techniques. Some of what you'll find out is unfortunate (no miracle balm), but you can always do something. Expectations just need to be realistic.
  11. johnv474

    Buffing wax edge burnishing to a shine

    A lot of people use Resolene over their burnished edge. It is a clear acrylic topcoat. However, it is a bit too potent fresh out of the bottle, so it works better to dilute it 50:50 with water. Two light coats beats one thick coat.
  12. johnv474

    Contact Adhesives

    Each company makes their own thinner, but almost any of the All-Purpose Contact cements have compatible thinners. BUT, NOT Multi-Purpose Cement. There is a difference and these families are not compatible. Barge, Master, and Weldwood all use a similar MEK solvent combo for thinning (referring to thinner for All Purpose Cement, not their other products like vinyl cement). A quart of thinner should cost about $13. It does a great job of removing oil, etc., from leather surfaces before gluing, also. The suggestion I give people is to buy cement by the quart and then to get a smaller 8-16 oz glue pot from Atco or S&J. The glue pot is basically a Mason jar made of plastic, with brush that screws into the lid. The brushes are wider than the ones that come with the cement, and hold way more, but the depth of the brush is adjustable, so you can have just the tip of the brush touching cement. By having a separate glue pot, you can open your quart, pour in roughiy 8 oz of cement to the jar, then close your quart can. You will lose less solvent by having less of the cement in a smaller container and just using that. However, investing in a quart of thinner is worth it to revive drying cement (as well as for cleaning off tools and cement spills, etc.)
  13. johnv474

    Nigel's Vimeo Channel

    Chiming in, I even learned something from the "How to Thread a needle" on his Vimeo channel. This, after doing it my old way for years. They are all good. Nigel has been a huge contributor to this community for years.
  14. johnv474

    Leather conditioner question

    Tea tree oil and cedar oil are both known to have some antiseptic or antibacterial properties. I like the smell of cedar, less so the tea tree. For purely sensory reasons, I would look for scents that are commonly preferred, such as lavender, cinnamon, citrus, or mint. That said, plain veg tan often has a woodsy scent so I might also consider a wood oil, if such a thing exists per se.
  15. johnv474

    preping leather

    For what it's worth, I, too, would trust leather coming out of Moser. I think sometimes they buy leather and resell (not certain, though). As MikeSC pointed out, maybe the alcohol had something else in it. Your predicament with dyeing that piece is a bit perplexing. Fiebings makes a dye prep, that is supposed to help the dye soak into the leather deeper/faster/better... and I believe the active ingredient is ammonia (but I dont know if there are other important ingredients). You have already used stronger chemicals than those in this process. If your dyes and everything work on other leathers I'd begin to think maybe a portion of that hide didnt quite get fully tanned or something. Hope you get it figured out.