Torn Boot

[Leather Bum]

Does anyone have any ideas how one would go about repairing this tear? The furry stuff coming out is the wool lining, I believe. I can take more pictures if necessary.

Thanks, everyone.

L'Bum

Edited December 20, 2008 by Leather Bum

[Kevin]

IF you have a patching machine, just separate the torn area from the counter,glue and stitch your patch to the leg and stitch it back to the counter. You might stitch the tear together before you put the patch on, but if its sheepskin, the stitches may pull through. I know I've kind of simplified, generalized this but otherwise I would just go on and on and on....... Hope that helps, Kevin

[Hennessy]

IF you have a patching machine, just separate the torn area from the counter,glue and stitch your patch to the leg and stitch it back to the counter. You might stitch the tear together before you put the patch on, but if its sheepskin, the stitches may pull through. I know I've kind of simplified, generalized this but otherwise I would just go on and on and on....... Hope that helps, Kevin

build a nice big fire in your yard n pitch them ol boots on it n make a big fuss.it's xmas santa's sure to hear so be nice n expect , if you have a tree, xmas morn look under it.

merry xmas pete

[Leather Bum]

I'm sorry, guys. I did not know anyone had responded (I thought I had this topic listed in my subscriptions; maybe not).

IF you have a patching machine, just separate the torn area from the counter,glue and stitch your patch to the leg and stitch it back to the counter. You might stitch the tear together before you put the patch on, but if its sheepskin, the stitches may pull through. I know I've kind of simplified, generalized this but otherwise I would just go on and on and on....... Hope that helps, Kevin

Thank you Kevin. I don't have any stitching machine, so I will have to do this by hand. From what you said, I'm assuming you mean to separate the part labeled "A" in the attached picture from the rest of the leg "B" (and I think you may be right that it's sheepskin), glue and sew a patch in place, and re-stitch "A." Is that right?

What if I just glue and sew a patch on the white box area without un-stitching "A"? I'm thinking it doesn't seem like a good idea to put a stitch line across the heel like that, though.

And what is a good way to punching the stitch holes? Should I use a small stitching awl. . . or glovers needles. . .?

Thanks very much for the help.

L'Bum

[Kevin]

OK, if I didn't have a machine, I would use a curved awl and a curved needle and do a backstitch, so you don't have to try sewing blind with one hand inside the boot. No you don't have to take the pieces apart, if you don't want to. I wouldn't, if I were handstitching it (well maybe I would 'cause I am a knothead). Don't make your patch too big or you might get into the stiffener in the counter and you probably can't sew through that. If that is sheepskin you are sewing the patch to don't make the stitches too small or it will just tear through. Oh, you might want to stitch the tear together before you patch it.

Hope that helps, Kevin

[Leather Bum]

Well, it's about time I finally got that patched. . .

Thank you Kevin for the advice. As you can see in the first picture, I roughly stitched the tear closed first -- yeah, I did a messy job. I glued (Weld Wood) the patch on and then used a modified nail to punch the holes (because I haven't gotten a proper awl yet). It's saddle stitched because I wasn't sure how to go about it another way.

What do you all think?

Thanks again, Kevin.

L'Bum

[Kevin]

You're very welcome,

That doesn't look bad at all, might even be better than what could be done with a patching machine, because the fleece would make it very hard to get an even stitch.

I know that felt good when you finished, sometimes I think repairs are more rewarding than making new stuff, cause you sure have to scratch your head to fix somebody else's mess.

Kevin

[Leather Bum]

OK, so now I need to repair the toe area of that same boot (believe it or not). The upper (is that what it's called?) has come apart from the sole a few inches, but it seems simple enough to apply contact cement (new formula Barge) and press into place. Will that work all right? I just thought I'd ask first in case there is something else I should/could do in addition to or instead of this. . .

[Luke Hatley]

yes just Glue and use a press. But the glue to use is not Barge Cement. right now i cannot think of the name. But is is made for rubber and vinal products. anyway you are on track now.

[Leather Bum]

Thanks, Luke. Are you maybe thinking of the Renia Colle De Cologne. . . or perhaps Shoe Goo?

I tried the Barge cement (new TF formula) before I saw your post and was a little surprised at how thick it was. I'm not sure if it's an old tube of glue or if that's just how it normally is -- or perhaps I didn't use it properly -- but it did not seem to work well at all. Now I have to clean off the glue and try something else. . .

Does anyone know where to get the Renia glue, or should I just try Master's?

Edited February 1, 2010 by Leather Bum

[Luke Hatley]

LEATHER BUM. NO NOT MASTERS EITHER, IT IS CONTAC CEMENT ALSO.

I STILL CAIN'T THINK OF THE NAME OF THE GLUE. THIS I DO KNOW IT IS A FORM

OF "SUPER GLUE". YOU'LL HAVE TO ASK A SHOE REPAIRMAN FOR THE NAME.

[celticleather]

You'll need to get all the old glue off the sole and the upper, and roughen the surfaces (with heavy-grade sandpaper) before you stick the sole back. Use a rubber or polyurethane cement (depending on whether the sole is rubber or plastic).

Whatever you do, DON'T use any form of superglue. It will soak into the leather and turn it to concrete, and it will snap off like a dry biscuit! Believe me . . . I've been fixing these problems for 35 years!

[Leather Bum]

I appreciate the help.

Luke, could it be any of the Renia products, or perhaps a cyanoacrylate glue called Fast Fix?

Use a rubber or polyurethane cement (depending on whether the sole is rubber or plastic).

I think the sole is rubber, but apparently there are several different materials used for shoe soles, so I'm not entirely certain. . . Would something like Shoe Goo or E6000 work?

Some suggestions for gluing gum rubber soles (here) recommended applying super glue to the rubber, and then regular contact cement after that had dried. . . and also heating the contact cement before adhering. . .

Thanks again.

[celticleather]

We use Renia Tek 95 for rubber soles (or rubber solution would work), and Bostik PA5050 for polyurethane or plastic soles. The cyanoacrylate family of glues are mostly the 'superglue' types, and whilst they will stick to the sole material, they will probably solidify the leather and make it liable to cracking.