Second Wade Saddle Complete

[rdl123]

Hello Keith,

Thanks for taking the time to put this all down for me!  I really appreciate the insights.  I knew there was something not 100% on the overall balance and look on this saddle but I couldn't put my finger on it...It was just a sense that something was off visually.

On the horn cap - My problem there is compounded by the fact that I cut the horn cap so close to my stitch line on the bottom.  I wanted a small as possible horn cap on this rig and I made a poor decision to trim the horn about 3/16" away from the stitch line under the cap.  I angled my stitches so I got proper clearance up top but I didn't leave myself enough room to get it properly edged on the underside.  Lesson learned there.

Burnishing - I will have to give the hardwood stick a try - Also I had forgotten about using bar type glycerin soap - I have some and will incorporate it into my burnishing.

In terms of design - I'm glad for the insight on this.  It never crossed my mind to consider the fender length/skirt depth ratio previously - This does make sense though.  I do create all of my own patterns so I will keep this in mind on saddle #3.  

In terms of the rear rigging dee - I agree with you and CWR - I wish it was about 3/4" higher - Do you think that would be enough?  My theory with rear rigging dees is that I do not want my rear billet to sit on top of the skirts as a good horseman once told me he'd seen skirts deform from pressure there and then sore up horses.  What are your thoughts on that?  What do you like to see there?

On skirt length behind cantle - What is a good overall skirt length?  Part of the reason I tried to keep this one shorter is that we do ride some younger horses.  However I am wondering if maybe I am misguided in this?  I will measure my length there as now that you have pointed it out it does look short!

Padded seat - I will make sure to modify my pattern for the next rig and get it wider.

Tooling on the cantle dish - I had actually planned to tool this one - However at the last minute I chickened out as I was worried I'd wreck my seat piece!  I'm still not very confident with tooling.  I'd never thought to tool the cheyenne roll - However looking at your website I see how nice it does look.  Guess I need to practice my tooling and build confidence.

On the Cheyenne roll - Yes - I tried to get it flatter by working at it and skiving material off the back edge - But I guess I should have got it pulled in tighter which would have helped to fold it down.  Out of curiosity - In your view is it acceptable practice to cut a wedge piece out of the cantle back where it creates the foundation of the cheyenne roll to help get it sloped down more?

I'm not 100% sure I understand what you mean on the earcuts - I will post a picture to see if I have interpreted what you are suggesting correctly.

In terms of the horn wrap - I will use this technique and re wrap the horn on this saddle and the one on my own rig - I do find it annoying to have to pull out slack - Your comments make sense and I will use this method from now on. I have a chinaman - Just haven't been casing my horn wrap at all.

And in closing - I find your comments very helpful and not discouraging in any way.  My goal is to make good saddles - Not mediocre ones!  Your comments will help me build a better balanced, more functional saddle with improved aesthetics on round #3!  

I'd like to thank you and all others who have taken the time to comment and suggest improvements - This forum has been invaluable to me - I am up in Saskatchewan Canada and there are not a lot of saddle makers nearby to get help from so this forum has made a big difference for me.

Ron L

 

[rdl123]

Hello Keith,

Here is a pic showing what I understand of your suggestion to raise the seat ear cut higher up the cantle...

Is this correct?  

Thanks - Ron L

[kseidel]

I'm sorry that I have not replied to this post.  I have not been getting notifications, so did not see this post. 

Yes, your drawing is showing the cut higher up the cantle.  Do not change the shape, just move the entire shape up the cantle.  You should be at least 3/4" from the corner where the cantle meets the bar. 

 

Keith