Need advice restoring a vintage military backpack?

[Martyn]

Hi guys, I've just bought a 1940's vintage Swiss M-44 backpack. I'll replace straps and such if I have to, but I'd rather restore where possible. I havent seen it in person yet, but the leather looks in OK shape for the age of the pack, but it'll need work for sure. What do you think? What products are best to clean it up and restore it?

[Thor]

So you got that backpack on eBay. Are you holding it in your hands as of yet? If it was mine I would give it a very thorough wash down. Looks like there's some mold on the leather. White vinegar should take care of that. Once you washed it down, don't wait till it's completely dry. Add some oil while it's still moist.

Take it apart as much as you possibly can for cleaning. Personally I might even undo the stitches on the straps to get them off. 

I don't know about the UK but in Germany we're having some actual leather detergent that will allow to actually wash it without the worries that it might dry out after. If you don't have any do as described above. It will allow the oil to easier penetrate the leather. If you want to use wax, use liquid wax as the paste will not penetrate deep enough.

No matter what you use make sure your water is not hotter than 40°C. Veg tanned leather doesn't like it very warm.

As for certain products - I don't have any. The only thing in this case would be to see if you get all the spots removed and make a judgment whether you want it darker or keep the actual color of the leather. Neatsfoot has a non-darkening product by the name of Lexol. Most other oils in Europe are based on fish oil and will naturally darken the leather.

I was trying to find a picture with the handle on the flap still existing, but the best I was able to find is this one

This is a different model of a Swiss military backpack and it looks like it's a strap to attach something like binoculars in this case 

Good luck on your task!

[Martyn]

Thanks Thor, that's some great advice. Yes, I bought it on ebay, I dont have it yet, I should get it Mon-Wed next week. I was planning on a good wash, I was going to use hot water through a hosepipe outside and some washing soda for the canvas. In the absence of any better suggestions, I was going to use saddle soap and neatsfoot oil on the leather, but I've never tried to get the best out of leather this far gone before. If I oil it before it's dry, wont that trap moisture in the leather and encourage it to rot/mold further? I'll keep the water below 40°C - thanks.

There are at least 3 variants of the M-44 pack, but I dont think any of them had a handle. The most common is the one I have bought, it has a 'tunnel' through it for a rifle and ice axe. See...

In the above pic you can also see what attaches to the loops on the lid, it's called a 'bread bag' and contained a mess kit, cup and flask with a sewing kit, wax polish and brushes for boots. It's almost impossible to find a pack with the original bread bag intact. Your last pick is the newer M-58 variant and on the lid the owner has strapped a mess tin. These are great packs, superb build quality. I'm not too worried about the straps as I can fairly easily make/replace those, it's the leather on the bottom that worries me as that is beyond my skill to replace.

 

[Thor]

I was wondering what that tunnel was for. All I know about the Swiss army is that it's no surprise they are a neutral country considering their forces are armed with a Swiss army knife only LOL.

That's why I suggested oil rather than wax. Wax will seal the surface where oil doesn't and allowing moisture to be released. When I say moist I mean at the point where it looks dry but isn't yet. Definitely not moist to touch. If you'd be a woman I'd say, just as you do with creaming your hands. It just allows the oil to penetrate deeper and better. Anyhow if you use a commercial product it will have some grease in it already and that step isn't necessary at all. BTW. I'd be surprised if saddle soap will do the trick. I've been cleaning saddles and horse tack for a long time now and saddle soap is good for most of it and if you don't care about discoloration. Almost all saddle soaps are glycerin based and will darken the leather to some degree. I'm only using dark saddles only and haven't cared about that yet. I heard that the white saddle soap doesn't darken. Whether that's true, I don't know.

The bottom leather is the same leather as it's being used on gymnastic equipment and of about 1.5 to 2 mm. Softer and stretchier type than what you'll usually find. Sorry I don't know what it's actually called. I'm making wallet interiors from scraps of that leather type. I'm splitting it down to 1.1 mm and it will last forever.

Guess that picture rings a bell...

I just noticed that on the front of the bottom there seems to be some disturbed surface. You may have to burnish this well. If you're re-oiling the leather go gentle and add it from both sides where possible. Flesh sides before grain sides. Let it come back to its natural color before you oil it again. You may have to do it 2 or three times.

[Martyn]

3 hours ago, Thor said:

I was wondering what that tunnel was for.

Yeah, the pack was made specifically for the Swiss k31 rifle (although many will fit). The tunnel stops the action from freezing up at altitude. The K31 has a bit of a cult following (like the Lee Enfield and Mosin Nagant), particularly in the US and if you own one, I think the M-44 pack is a bit of a must have accessory.

 

I think it's partly responsible for driving the prices up on these packs. I saw one recently on US ebay for almost $300 and it looked in just fair usable condition to me. Much better than mine but definitely not mint. I didn't pay anything like that for mine, I think because the leatherwork looks so rough. I'm hoping I can bring it back.

" I just noticed that on the front of the bottom there seems to be some disturbed surface. You may have to burnish this well. If you're re-oiling the leather go gentle and add it from both sides where possible. Flesh sides before grain sides. Let it come back to its natural color before you oil it again. You may have to do it 2 or three times. "

Yeah, it looks like it's almost gone to suede in places. It's a concern. The 'salt and pepper' canvas should be fine though. It's made from flax and nettle and has earned a reputation for amazing durability. I'll know more when I get my hands on it next week.

 

Thanks for the input Thor. I'm in unknown territory here, it all helps.

Edited May 5, 2016 by Martyn