Any idea which Seiko this machine is?

[mikesc]

Not really worth increasing the bobbin size if it is the "G", doing so involves changing hook, basket, but most importantly the machine bed would probably need milling on a lathe to allow the larger hook and bobbin assembly to pass ( that milling removes enough metal to allow the hook to sit further away from the needle ) but..it really is a lot of work unless you have a lathe ( a real machine shop one, not a hobby one ) and are experienced at using it..

I only asked for curiosity value as some machines came with a larger hook and bobbin, ( my 211 has a "G", but they also made some with an "M" which is the bigger size ) great if you have them, but seriously you'd only really worry about running out in the middle of something if you were running a lot of long seams like in upholstery..one way to not have to worry about that is not to sew  loads of long seams without checking your bobbin to ensure there is enough thread in it..as Floyd says, thicker thread takes up more space on the bobbin so you get less on the bobbin..but you'll probably be sewing mostly with 92 or 138 ( running heavier than 138 often isn't a good idea in all these similar machines anyway , for heavier threads you really need to be running a heavier machine if you are going to do a lot of them )..How much thread will you use ? ..a rough guide is that a lockstitch machine ( what this is ) will use 7 times more thread than the length of the seam you want to stitch..so if you measure your seam at say 20 cms..you'll use 140cm of thread..the thicker the material the more thread you'll use to go the same distance of seam, and the thicker the thread the more thread you'll use to go the same distance on a , it might be that you'd multiply by a factor of say 9 or 11 ..

You can always make a plexiglass substitute plate to replace the sliding steel plate that covers the bobbin and hook, that will let you see how much thread is left on the bobbin while you are sewing, or wind a full bobbin, then unwind it all and measure how long the thread was in total..then apply the factor(s)  above depending on the seam length and the material thickness, an you'll know how many centimetres of seam you can sew per full bobbin of thread..eventually you get a feel for it and can calculate without thinking too hard..

Edited June 19, 2016 by mikesc

[sparky20006]

Bloody hell I'll take that as a 'no' then 

I was just wanting a machine to sew wallets, bags and maybe 2.5 mm veg tan leather belts...that sort of stuff

Would it be ok as it is for that ? I really can't be arsed hand saddle stitching literally every thing I plan on making.

Cheers for taking the time to help guys. I do appreciate it

 

Paul

 

 

Edited June 19, 2016 by sparky20006

[mikesc]

Just as it is..It will be absolutely fine for what you want..and for a lot of other stuff that you might want to do later too, and if you decide that you want later to do lots of bags and cylindrical things with small openings, then you'll have made enough money with your Seiko, to by a cylinder arm machine too..welcome to the world of sewing machine addiction

Edited June 19, 2016 by mikesc

[sparky20006]

Cheers Mike. Going to put a sneaky 300 quid snipe on it. Thanks for the heads up. If you were closer I'd buy you a cold one. 

[NCArcher]

How did you go Sparky? Are you a proud new owner?

I managed to pick up Consew 226R (same machine) for just $250. In good condition. 

I transferred the Efka servo from a Juki DL555 to the Consew and I now have a great machine.

Sews beautifully with 138 thread and a 22 needle.