FIRST TRY AT INLAY

[Buzzard Bait]

This is my first attempt at inlay, ostrich and stingray.

The plug to raise the inlay surface of the ostrich did not fit the opening and left a small slot at the bottom. I used a small piece of black stingray to fill it.

I haven't found the correct tension adjustment to pull the top thread into the leather when stitching very  thin layers together as can be seen in the stitches around the inlay.

Comments and suggestions are welcome.

Regards,

BB

[MADMAX22]

Good start, I use the same piece I cut out for the inlay plug that way its always the same size, just trimmed down for thickness of inlayed material. Looks like a beast of a knife. 

Did you back off on your upper tension for the thinner material? 

[katsass]

One thing I learned early  --- the inlayed piece is cut slightly larger than the "window" in which it will go.  Skive, or in any other way you can figure out thin the outer edges of the inlay; tack it in place behind the "window' with a good contact cement; stitch that puppy in place then cement the lining piece in place.  I use two layers of leather (a lining piece and an outer shell) and sandwich my inlayed piece between the two, but stitch only the inlay and top piece on most projects. The reason to cut the inlay a bit larger --- they almost never fit exactly to the cut-out --- and when drawing your pattern, include your inlay on it  --  never try to draw a separate inlay and try to align it to the basic pattern -- it'll never fit correctly. . As to the tension question   --- I got no idea.  I hand stitch everything.  Here is an example of my normal inlay and an example of an inlay drawn and cut separately. Notice how the inlay is not perfectly centered in the second one.   Mike   

[Buzzard Bait]

MADMAX22, I used the cutout for the plug, but dumb me, I turned everything upside down to fit the inlay over the plug in the cutout and kept trimming. Too Much! Beast of a knife is correct......it is a Case Commemorative, 9 1/4 inch blade, 2 inches tall.

I just got my machine a couple of weeks ago (Cobra Class 4). The only change I have made from the factory settings was backing off the upper tension 5 complete revolutions. I get some impressions in the surface of the leather from the presser foot, so I think I need to back off some on it too. I'll have to experiment with that. This is my first machine and was my first try at sewing a project with it.

 

katsass, I did the same procedure as you described, but added another backing same size as the front (top piece) to keep the blade from cutting the stitches holding the inlay and it's backing to the front (top piece). I stitched the inlay with plug and backing to the front (top piece) first, then added the full size backing which is stitched with the front, welt and back.  Hope this explanation makes sense.

I have been hand stitching, but finally bit the bullet as they say! I have wanted a machine for years (I started leatherworking in 1965 while in the USAF). Most of the stuff I used to do was laced. See old photo of an archery target quiver below.

 

 

 

[katsass]

Buzzard Bait; Nice work ---  thought you might be interested in one or two of the sheaths I made for Herman Schneider (master knife maker -- really does some fantastic stuff but I believe he has passed recently google him to see some fantastic knives)

[Buzzard Bait]

Those are really nice Mike (katsass)!

Thanks guys for the suggestions!

BB