Firestar1485 Report post Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) Long story, but here's the quasi short version ... Always been a hobby craftsman, wood work, welding and metal fabrication, electrical, plumbing, ranch construction, tractors, and a little sewing on the side ... etc. etc. I grew weary with a cheap Brother machine after repair and tuned ups, moved onto Janome HD1000. Happy with it, except for anything heavy (thread and/or fabric). So I purchased a Juki LU-563 with a new servo, bobbin winder, foot pedal, knee lifter, thread stand, led lighting, and various storage add-ons. Using scrap steel (1x3 schedule 40 structural tube) I had in my shop, I've fabricated a really stout table frame. I'm refinishing a 300 lb sold wood door as the table top (approximately 3' x 7'). I plan to end up with a pretty large and yet semi mobile (frame has casters) industrial sewing set up. I'm at the stage now to start assembling the technical stuff and I have a few questions you MIGHT be able to help with. CUT OUT - Does anyone know where I could find a cutout pattern for the table top? Ideally something specific to Juki 563, but if not then even something generic would be a great starting point. VIBRATION - My set up will end up weighing 400+ lbs and should be very stable, but I still have concerns about shake/rattle/vibration. I plan to set up the table on top of a 1/2" dense rubber floor (commercial gym flooring) and I am also using cut pieces of the same rubber mat between the wood table top and the steel framing, again to reduce vibration transfer. Any thoughts, is this overkill as usual? V-BELT LENGTH - What the heck is the standard/typical length V-belt most commonly used for a servo-juki set up like this? I figured there would be a couple of standard sizes, but found there are seemingly infinite variations! TOP FINISH - Table top finished with HD "heavy traffic" gloss urethane? Any thoughts on how this will serve the sewing purpose? My thought is the gloss will make moving fabric around much easier and a prefer the natural wood look over anything painted, especially when the wood looks great already! 110 OR 220 WIRING - new servo is 110 wired, but I know with my table saw I had it rewired to 220v and it has been more reliable and significantly more powerful. Anyone had a new/modern servo set up for 220v? HEAD LOCATION - I was planning to mount the machine toward the lower right hand corner of this larger table top, leaving more space on the left for fabric maneuvering but thinking about it last night, I started thinking that right in the middle might give me even more flexibility. What am I missing here? Apologies for asking so many questions all at once, my top question right now is really the cutout pattern (#1) but the others are semi-dangerous ideas bouncing around in my head! LOL PS ... I will post some pictures of the table, motor and head when I get a chance. That might help your understanding too. Edited October 25, 2016 by Firestar1485 clarity & added pics Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jacobkoski Report post Posted October 25, 2016 I am interested in what you come up with. I just bought a Pfaff 335 and am going to make a MUCH smaller table then the one it comes with (picture included) I plan on reversing the motor and mounting it directly below. These machines are so top heavy I think I am going to allow for some bricks or something in the bottom for ballast. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roq Report post Posted October 25, 2016 Many years ago I watched a guy sew a sail at the dock on a portable machine. I do not see the need for a 7' table. Having a foot or so to the right of the machine to store full bobbins, screwdrivers etc is good. The size of the throat is more of a limiting factor then how much room you have on the left of the needle. As for the hole for the machine, you should be able to make your own template. Use a CAD (cardboard aided design program. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Firestar1485 Report post Posted October 26, 2016 CAD? I always thought it stood for Computer Aided Drafting but I'm much more familiar with "Cardboard Aided Design" Attached are a couple of pics of table in progress. I know the size is overkill but I have the room and love to "spread out" when working on projects. Table top+frame is already very heavy (I/m guessing 200+/- lbs), once the sewing head, motor, storage and accessories are in place I'll probably be pushing 300 or more ... doubt it will move around too much! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Firestar1485 Report post Posted November 1, 2016 Not completely done, but very close!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mpuma Report post Posted February 5, 2019 That looks great! Im tryin to build one myself Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
