boosartistry Report post Posted November 17, 2016 Calling all saddle-stitching gurus, I realize that when it comes to the balance of TPI, thread weight, technique there is a lot of grey area, but of course there are some hard-fast rules. Here's where I'm a little lost: I know part of this depends on the quality of the pricking iron, but when can and can't you just punch all the way through the leather and not use an awl? My understanding is that theoretically the iron is meant to mark the stitch and your awl provides just a big enough hole that your thread can pass through, but then allow the leather to neatly "close up" around the stitch. When is this pertinent? Is it based on leather weight and type (veg tan/bridle vs. something soft and pliable)? I attached a photo of a simple iPhone clutch I made using a Tandy pricking iron (7 TPI) and .8mm Tiger Thread on Horween CXL Horse Strip. I mean, it looks pretty sharp to me, but maybe one of you can offer a critique that I'm not seeing. I have just ordered a couple Vergez Blanchard pricking irons (9 TPI) for when I start sewing up kangaroo or exclusively horse front leather goods. I know that these exquisite tools will create a finer hole for stitching, but, is it enough just to have a highend iron or should I get over myself and discipline myself on an awl? Lol. I do aim to produce high-end, extremely durable goods. I tend to value quality of construction/function a little more than aesthetics. Thanks in advance for any constructive criticism and ideas! Laura Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
soccerdad Report post Posted November 17, 2016 Hi Laura, Some tools are meant to punch all the way through the leather, and others are meant to mark spots the where maker drives an awl through. I recommend that you watch all the relevant Nigel Armitage videos on YouTube. He has several on chisels and irons, plus a few on saddle stitching (among others). Also, check out Atelier Amy Roke -- I've got a pair of their irons, which are fantastic! Dale BTW, I like your work! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
thefanninator Report post Posted November 17, 2016 In the end it's a matter of personal preference & skill but in general a stitching 'chisel' is meant to punch all the way through and the pricking irons are meant to just mark stitches and be finished with an awl. I've done both but I am moving toward just marking with my Blanchard irons now so I can make the holes as small as possible with an awl and still get the needle & thread through. I think this ends up being stronger and looking nicer because of the smaller holes in the leather. In my opinion your .8mm Tiger thread will be too big for the 9 TPI Blanchard that you have coming. I use 632 Lin Cable for 9 TPI. You could also try the 632 Amy Roke thread. A few suggestions to create a higher end look on the iPhone clutch: Don't bevel the edges; instead paint the edges with several coats and sand with a fine grit and buff with paraffin wax. A small crease around your edges will give it a more finished look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
