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Posted

Thanks for resurrecting this old thread Johanna! Lots of information from a couple of different perspectives. I don't think I agree with some of it but th epoint of vies certainly makes you think twice. Good stuff!

Bobby

Leqatherworkerthumbnail2La.jpg LongLiveCowboys-1.jpgWFDPhoto2a.jpg

  • 4 years later...
  • Members
Posted

I always used a double thickness of leather on the flank straps coming down from a saddle's back D ring. After gluing them together and letting it dry, I gouged a little groove around the edge for the stitching. Being down in that groove helped protect the thread from abrasion and wear.

  • 1 year later...
  • Members
Posted

Along these lines, would anyone mind Sharing preferred methods of attaching straps? I'm no expert, and I usually just do what looks good for my bags or shoulder holsters, but do you like to use rivets? Rivets and stitching? How about different applications like wrapping around hardware, attaching directly to the side of the article, or attaching at the edge of the article?

Damon Toivonen

Lonesome Leather

  • 2 years later...
  • Members
Posted

I remember this from way back, all in all good advise ..    

Horsewreck, aka, Jeff M. Hairgrove

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Interesting old thread about gouging a stitch line in straps that has to endure heavy strain.  I do have have special pressers on my sewing machines that's sets the stitch deep. On my 441 I have foot that has a profile that makes a channel for the stitches. On my Busm/Pearson N⁰6 I have pricking feet's that does the same job, Only wish I had more sizes of them thought. If someone has any for sale please let me know. Thanks

Tor

Tor

Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100

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