Asking For Quality Mallet / Maul Recommendations

[ContactCement]

I  have looked at a few weighted and non weighted mallet maul designs and find it difficult to ignore the high prices. I read a few comments about nasty indentations or accelerated wear developing in the plastic striking surfaces of mallets and mauls. Are there any replacement maul striking surfaces or plastic sleeves being sold for the so called "professional" mallets and mauls ? My personal preference is to avoid cash in the trash. A comfortable decorative palm size rock with a hard leather rawhide face glued onto it would probably do just fine and be easier on the wrist to boot. Both the garland and wiha split head mallets available use disposable hammer faces. .  http://www.garlandmfg.com/mallets/faces.html  https://www.wihatools.com/shop-tools/mallets/replacement-hammer-faces  Those persons properly or successfully casing leather and stamping leather should share their opinion as to which mallet or maul will last or has lasted the longest before failing. I'm practicing some basics stamping on some dark brown 5/64"  to 7/64" thick pre dyed random cut leather scrap sold in grab bags. I'm using a professional thick granite surface plate from woodcraft. Yes I moistened the leather with water and sponge like the tandy video enough for it to change shades and let return to its previous color approx. 6 minutes or less before attempting to stamp an impression into the leather. Also can pre dyed leather be stamped if the dye was water based?

[bikermutt07]

I can't answer for much on the mauls. 

Normally leather is stamped then dyed. If it is predyed it wouldn't be water based unless your buddy gave it to you.

 

[Diyer]

It is possible to stamp patterns on predyed leather- I have done this on UK  bridle and saddle butts. You do have to hit the stamp harder.

Mauls and hammers- my preference is for ones with replaceable ends- so far not available here in Portugal.Also everything dries out, so I have to leave the head in a bucket of water from time to time. The rock sounds interesting, but it would need a flattish surface?

[ContactCement]

2 hours ago, Diyer said:

It is possible to stamp patterns on predyed leather- I have done this on UK  bridle and saddle butts. You do have to hit the stamp harder.

Mauls and hammers- my preference is for ones with replaceable ends- so far not available here in Portugal.Also everything dries out, so I have to leave the head in a bucket of water from time to time. The rock sounds interesting, but it would need a flattish surface?

 I'm better at woodworking than leather craft. When a metal hammer head is loosening just the hammer head can to be submersed in linseed oil until the wood swells up tight in the eye of the hammer head. This probably will not work with rubber or plastics or rawhide though without damaging the mallet material. Then you simply wipe off the excess oil and let it dry. Do not use a un-natural, non-oil wood finishes such as shellac, varnish, oil or water based polyurethane and others that harden on or in the top layer the surface of the wood. Those finishes will not soak in deep enough becoming a nasty, sticky, hard mess that will ruin any hammer.  Yes I too have noticed that pre-dyed leather takes a pounding just to make little progress when stamping. Mallets have a flat striking surface. Mauls have a round tapered striking surface, some mauls are cylindrical  with no taper. I personally have found the mallets flat striking surface is easier to strike a 1/4" / 6 mm narrow stamp handle.

Edited March 27, 2017 by ContactCement

[Brianm77]

https://www.amazon.com/Gaosi-Tools-Leathercraft-Carving-Aluminum/dp/B011L5NW02/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&qid=1490665256&sr=8-50&keywords=Gaosi+Tools

 

I have been using hammers since I was 8 or 10.  I am almost 40 now.   At work I use very expensive tools to include hammers.  When I picked up leatherwork a few months ago, I picked up the maul and hammer version of this (hammer is black plastic).  Now I am not by any means saying this is as good as your barry king or some such.  But it deals pretty good in your hand.  It has a good balance and I feel like the head will last a long while.  My stitching chisels do more damage than my stamps to the head.  I have to hit harder and they have a sharper edge.   When the head wears out, it looks as if I could put a rawhide head on them or wood on the mallet.  And if not they were close to $20 shipped. 

My $.02

[Mattsbagger]

16 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

I can't answer for much on the mauls. 

Normally leather is stamped then dyed. If it is predyed it wouldn't be water based unless your buddy gave it to you.

 

I have used predeyd W/C for stamping. It's eats the stamp.

[bikermutt07]

2 hours ago, Mattsbagger said:

I have used predeyd W/C for stamping. It's eats the stamp.

I was emphasising that it wouldn't be water based dye. You are correct that you can stamp predyed leather.

Sorry I didn't make my statement more clear.

[cradom]

As far as replacement maul surfaces, take a look here: http://www.eplastics.com/Acetal_Delrin_Rod

Buy a short rod and cut/drill to fit. Just be careful what size you order (coming from the guy who bought a 4in. diameter rod, boy did I feel stupid   ).

[JLSleather]

For tooling, I've always liked the 11 oz Garland rawhide mallet.  It will wear, but it will last so long it don't matter.  I have worn them out, but that's talking about tooling leather 8+ hours a day, 5-6 days a week, for a long time.  Then, just buy a new one, and keep the old one for driving letter stamps and snap setters.

 

[Mattsbagger]

19 hours ago, bikermutt07 said:

I was emphasising that it wouldn't be water based dye. You are correct that you can stamp predyed leather.

Sorry I didn't make my statement more clear.

Ya wasn't jumpin on ya Mutt. 

[bikermutt07]

Woof woof

[HENDREFORGAN]

With a maul - or "impact resistant hammer" - there are three things to consider.  1.  The size/weight of the striking head  2.  The material the head is made from  3.  The length of the handle.

Whilst a traditional leather rawhide mallet set in cast metal on the end of a piece of hickory may be "pretty" they aren't indestructible and actually just about the worst thing you can use when either the head or shaft starts to come loose.  So I looked for and then replaced mine over time with "alternatives" from other market sectors.  One of mine is actually a heavy white nylon or PTFE head mounted in an aluminium head and handle that is really a car body panel beaters tool and another which is smaller and lighter with a resin head set in hard plastic with a nylon handle is a tent peg hammer.  They have worked just fine for many years . . and both were very cheap.

The weight needs to be not enormous but heavy enough to do the work for you . . whatever tool you use it should do the work and not your arms.  You may find that you prefer for accuracy holding the maul nearer the head too, so buy one that's balanced for a shorter handle.

[ContactCement]

9 hours ago, HENDREFORGAN said:

With a maul - or "impact resistant hammer" - there are three things to consider.  1.  The size/weight of the striking head  2.  The material the head is made from  3.  The length of the handle.

Whilst a traditional leather rawhide mallet set in cast metal on the end of a piece of hickory may be "pretty" they aren't indestructible and actually just about the worst thing you can use when either the head or shaft starts to come loose.  So I looked for and then replaced mine over time with "alternatives" from other market sectors.  One of mine is actually a heavy white nylon or PTFE head mounted in an aluminium head and handle that is really a car body panel beaters tool and another which is smaller and lighter with a resin head set in hard plastic with a nylon handle is a tent peg hammer.  They have worked just fine for many years . . and both were very cheap.

The weight needs to be not enormous but heavy enough to do the work for you . . whatever tool you use it should do the work and not your arms.  You may find that you prefer for accuracy holding the maul nearer the head too, so buy one that's balanced for a shorter handle.

When a good hammer handle is a little loose. Remove any rubber, rawhide, plastic ect and submerse the hammer head in linseed oil the wood will swell. Wipe off the excess and let dry. Dispose of the linseed oil rag properly and safely to prevent a fire.