bikermutt07 Posted March 29, 2017 Report Posted March 29, 2017 Woof woof Quote I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with. Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day. From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.
Members HENDREFORGAN Posted March 30, 2017 Members Report Posted March 30, 2017 With a maul - or "impact resistant hammer" - there are three things to consider. 1. The size/weight of the striking head 2. The material the head is made from 3. The length of the handle. Whilst a traditional leather rawhide mallet set in cast metal on the end of a piece of hickory may be "pretty" they aren't indestructible and actually just about the worst thing you can use when either the head or shaft starts to come loose. So I looked for and then replaced mine over time with "alternatives" from other market sectors. One of mine is actually a heavy white nylon or PTFE head mounted in an aluminium head and handle that is really a car body panel beaters tool and another which is smaller and lighter with a resin head set in hard plastic with a nylon handle is a tent peg hammer. They have worked just fine for many years . . and both were very cheap. The weight needs to be not enormous but heavy enough to do the work for you . . whatever tool you use it should do the work and not your arms. You may find that you prefer for accuracy holding the maul nearer the head too, so buy one that's balanced for a shorter handle. Quote Always remember. Every engineer out there now stands on the shoulders of ALL other engineers who went before them.
Members ContactCement Posted March 31, 2017 Author Members Report Posted March 31, 2017 9 hours ago, HENDREFORGAN said: With a maul - or "impact resistant hammer" - there are three things to consider. 1. The size/weight of the striking head 2. The material the head is made from 3. The length of the handle. Whilst a traditional leather rawhide mallet set in cast metal on the end of a piece of hickory may be "pretty" they aren't indestructible and actually just about the worst thing you can use when either the head or shaft starts to come loose. So I looked for and then replaced mine over time with "alternatives" from other market sectors. One of mine is actually a heavy white nylon or PTFE head mounted in an aluminium head and handle that is really a car body panel beaters tool and another which is smaller and lighter with a resin head set in hard plastic with a nylon handle is a tent peg hammer. They have worked just fine for many years . . and both were very cheap. The weight needs to be not enormous but heavy enough to do the work for you . . whatever tool you use it should do the work and not your arms. You may find that you prefer for accuracy holding the maul nearer the head too, so buy one that's balanced for a shorter handle. When a good hammer handle is a little loose. Remove any rubber, rawhide, plastic ect and submerse the hammer head in linseed oil the wood will swell. Wipe off the excess and let dry. Dispose of the linseed oil rag properly and safely to prevent a fire. Quote
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