weaselrunner Report post Posted January 7, 2009 Whats the best way line a leather belt with something like a velvetine fabric. My sister-in-law want me to make her a wide "dress belt" and rather than having leather as a backing, I was thinking about fabric. Any suggetions on what glues or other methods. Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustWakinUp Report post Posted January 7, 2009 To line my wallets i use 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive. The thing is though, if you spray to much and put the fabric on too quick the glue will penetrate the fabric. It's a fun balancing act. I'm not familiar with the tpye of fabric you are using though so this may not be your best bet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HarrAwl Report post Posted January 7, 2009 It can be difficult, more suprisingly! I've recently tried to cover my 09 diary with leather - using contact adhesive. it's what i used last year to do the same thing. Only, this year, it won't stick! You'll want to try it out first, as above, it can leach through the fabric. Sometimes a key to the leather helps - so sanding it with a low grit (70) will scuff it up enough to take the glue bond. I have used Evo-Stick Cement, but as i said, it hasn't worked this year for some reason. I'd imagine book-binders glue would do the trick. Wait for a more informed opinion! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gibbsleatherworks Report post Posted January 7, 2009 Ive also used 3M for linings in phone cases, holsters. Seems to work well. Like JustWakingUp said, be careful to not over apply and allow it to slightly dry before applying the fabric, less is more. Also protect the edges of the leather when spraying, its hard to remove the adhesive overspray. Try it on a sample to practice the amount of adhesive and the timing of applying the fabric. Barge's adhesive can be brushed on to offer better control. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustWakinUp Report post Posted January 7, 2009 Ive also used 3M for linings in phone cases, holsters. Seems to work well. Like JustWakingUp said, be careful to not over apply and allow it to slightly dry before applying the fabric, less is more. Also protect the edges of the leather when spraying, its hard to remove the adhesive overspray. Try it on a sample to practice the amount of adhesive and the timing of applying the fabric.Barge's adhesive can be brushed on to offer better control. If you're using vegtan and don't want the adhesive to stick to the sides you can "LIGHTLY" apply a "SMALL" amount of vaseline/petroleum jelly and that will keep the adhesive from sticking. Then just wipe it all off the edge after a few minutes of dry time Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hilly Report post Posted January 8, 2009 I wonder if using something like low tach tape (painters tape) on the edges would be enough to keep the spray adhesive from getting on the edges? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KWT Report post Posted January 10, 2009 I have used rubber cement to line bible covers. I use a thicker satin style cloth which reduces bleed through. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rawhide Report post Posted January 11, 2009 If it gets on your veg tanned edges, just use a fine grit sand paper to remove it, something like 600 grit will do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tashabear Report post Posted January 11, 2009 How wide? You might want to look for a velvet/velveteen (correct spelling, so you can find it online if you go that route) ribbon, so you don't have to worry about dealing with raw fabric edges. That sort of fabric is thick and doesn't fold easily, so hemming it to make it look nice will make it a little lumpy and/or thick. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
weaselrunner Report post Posted January 12, 2009 How wide? You might want to look for a velvet/velveteen (correct spelling, so you can find it online if you go that route) ribbon, so you don't have to worry about dealing with raw fabric edges. That sort of fabric is thick and doesn't fold easily, so hemming it to make it look nice will make it a little lumpy and/or thick. SHE IS TALKING 2-1/2 TO 3" WIDE Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tashabear Report post Posted January 12, 2009 SHE IS TALKING 2-1/2 TO 3" WIDE (all caps = yelling. Just sayin'.) Take a look at a fabric store, see what they have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hennessy Report post Posted January 12, 2009 If it gets on your veg tanned edges, just use a fine grit sand paper to remove it, something like 600 grit will do.rubber cement can be erased,a pencil eraser or better a piece of an old gum sole or heel from a shoe repair shop a very usefull tool pete Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kowboyboots Report post Posted January 13, 2009 I use Wonder Under, or a type like it from the fabric store, works great Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tashabear Report post Posted January 13, 2009 I use Wonder Under, or a type like it from the fabric store, works great Really... and it adheres to the leather? I wonder if it would work on a pigskin lining... It'd probably burn the pigskin, though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kowboyboots Report post Posted January 13, 2009 Tashabear, I have used it on all kinds of leather, the rougher or more texture is best, it will work on smooth also. Only thing I found you have to be careful about was the foils, don't directly iron the foil side. I use a t-shirt heat press on the leather. The pig skin I actually used the wonder under stuff to stiffen it before I ran it through my ink jet printer. Also I use to do leather appliques on sweat shirts 7 would use this stuff to adhere the different colors to each other. I usually sewed the outer edge but it held good any way. JustWakinup, if you use like the wonder under stuff (I use a different brand but can't remember what it is) then the fabric won't fray either. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tashabear Report post Posted January 13, 2009 (I use a different brand but can't remember what it is) Heat N Bond? I have a folder to line for a customer; this could do the trick! I have contact cement, but I'm used to fusible interfacing, so I like this idea. I don't have a t-shirt press; what do you think would be an appropriate temperature for a regular iron? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kowboyboots Report post Posted January 13, 2009 Hot! I use about 350 heat, no steam. Do a test spot an yes I think mine is heat & bond too. Something I picked up a couple bolts of at the wholesale fabric show. Use the paper that comes between the HB under the project an on top until you test it a little, that way if any flows over the edge it won't stick to the iron, it makes a mess, LOL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tashabear Report post Posted January 13, 2009 Hot! I use about 350 heat, no steam. Do a test spot an yes I think mine is heat & bond too.Something I picked up a couple bolts of at the wholesale fabric show. Use the paper that comes between the HB under the project an on top until you test it a little, that way if any flows over the edge it won't stick to the iron, it makes a mess, LOL. My technique has always been to iron on a larger piece than I need, then cut to size. So much easier than trying to trim to a shape. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites