Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
weaselrunner

HOW DO I LINE LEATHER WITH FABRIC

Recommended Posts

Whats the best way line a leather belt with something like a velvetine fabric. My sister-in-law want me to make her a wide "dress belt" and rather than having leather as a backing, I was thinking about fabric. Any suggetions on what glues or other methods. Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To line my wallets i use 3M Hi-Strength 90 spray adhesive.

The thing is though, if you spray to much and put the fabric on

too quick the glue will penetrate the fabric. It's a fun balancing act.

I'm not familiar with the tpye of fabric you are using though so this may

not be your best bet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It can be difficult, more suprisingly!

I've recently tried to cover my 09 diary with leather - using contact adhesive. it's what i used last year to do the same thing. Only, this year, it won't stick!

You'll want to try it out first, as above, it can leach through the fabric.

Sometimes a key to the leather helps - so sanding it with a low grit (70) will scuff it up enough to take the glue bond.

I have used Evo-Stick Cement, but as i said, it hasn't worked this year for some reason.

I'd imagine book-binders glue would do the trick. Wait for a more informed opinion!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive also used 3M for linings in phone cases, holsters. Seems to work well. Like JustWakingUp said, be careful to not over apply and allow it to slightly dry before applying the fabric, less is more. Also protect the edges of the leather when spraying, its hard to remove the adhesive overspray. Try it on a sample to practice the amount of adhesive and the timing of applying the fabric.

Barge's adhesive can be brushed on to offer better control.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Ive also used 3M for linings in phone cases, holsters. Seems to work well. Like JustWakingUp said, be careful to not over apply and allow it to slightly dry before applying the fabric, less is more. Also protect the edges of the leather when spraying, its hard to remove the adhesive overspray. Try it on a sample to practice the amount of adhesive and the timing of applying the fabric.

Barge's adhesive can be brushed on to offer better control.

If you're using vegtan and don't want the adhesive to stick to the sides you can "LIGHTLY" apply a "SMALL" amount of vaseline/petroleum jelly and that will keep the adhesive from sticking. Then just wipe it all off the edge after a few minutes of dry time

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wonder if using something like low tach tape (painters tape) on the edges would be enough to keep the spray adhesive from getting on the edges?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used rubber cement to line bible covers. I use a thicker satin style cloth which reduces bleed through.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it gets on your veg tanned edges, just use a fine grit sand paper to remove it, something like 600 grit will do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How wide? You might want to look for a velvet/velveteen (correct spelling, so you can find it online if you go that route) ribbon, so you don't have to worry about dealing with raw fabric edges. That sort of fabric is thick and doesn't fold easily, so hemming it to make it look nice will make it a little lumpy and/or thick.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
How wide? You might want to look for a velvet/velveteen (correct spelling, so you can find it online if you go that route) ribbon, so you don't have to worry about dealing with raw fabric edges. That sort of fabric is thick and doesn't fold easily, so hemming it to make it look nice will make it a little lumpy and/or thick.

SHE IS TALKING 2-1/2 TO 3" WIDE

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
SHE IS TALKING 2-1/2 TO 3" WIDE

(all caps = yelling. Just sayin'.)

Take a look at a fabric store, see what they have.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it gets on your veg tanned edges, just use a fine grit sand paper to remove it, something like 600 grit will do.
rubber cement can be erased,a pencil eraser or better a piece of an old gum sole or heel from a shoe repair shop a very usefull tool pete

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use Wonder Under, or a type like it from the fabric store, works great

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I use Wonder Under, or a type like it from the fabric store, works great

Really... and it adheres to the leather? I wonder if it would work on a pigskin lining... It'd probably burn the pigskin, though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tashabear, I have used it on all kinds of leather, the rougher or more texture is best, it will work on smooth also.

Only thing I found you have to be careful about was the foils, don't directly iron the foil side.

I use a t-shirt heat press on the leather.

The pig skin I actually used the wonder under stuff to stiffen it before I ran it through my ink jet printer. Also I use to do leather appliques on sweat shirts 7 would use this stuff to adhere the different colors to each other. I usually sewed the outer edge but it held good any way.

JustWakinup, if you use like the wonder under stuff (I use a different brand but can't remember what it is) then the fabric won't fray either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
(I use a different brand but can't remember what it is)

Heat N Bond?

I have a folder to line for a customer; this could do the trick! I have contact cement, but I'm used to fusible interfacing, so I like this idea. I don't have a t-shirt press; what do you think would be an appropriate temperature for a regular iron?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hot! I use about 350 heat, no steam. Do a test spot an yes I think mine is heat & bond too.

Something I picked up a couple bolts of at the wholesale fabric show.

Use the paper that comes between the HB under the project an on top until you test it a little, that way if any flows over the edge it won't stick to the iron, it makes a mess, LOL.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hot! I use about 350 heat, no steam. Do a test spot an yes I think mine is heat & bond too.

Something I picked up a couple bolts of at the wholesale fabric show.

Use the paper that comes between the HB under the project an on top until you test it a little, that way if any flows over the edge it won't stick to the iron, it makes a mess, LOL.

My technique has always been to iron on a larger piece than I need, then cut to size. So much easier than trying to trim to a shape.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...