Members Big Papa Leather Posted January 8, 2009 Members Report Posted January 8, 2009 I have gotten another swivel knife. I bought a Barry King swivel with the 1/4" blade. I absolutely love the knife, but the blade... well not so much. It does a great job, don't get me wrong, but even after super stropping (removed all grind marks and applied a mirror finish using various grits from 9 micron to .5 micron diamond spray, it's not gonna strop/sharpen any better than it is now) I still have some drag in tight corners and it will cause the leather to bunch a bit. I re-evaluated my technique even. I do not have this problem with a ceramic blade I worked over. So I guess I am curious, is there another blade that will fit the Barry King knife or a Tandy AS swivel knife that is not ceramic that is even better for detail work or tight turns? The Barry King blade won't fit my Tandy AS knife (second favorite one) I thought maybe the Henley 1/4" angle thin blade? Any suggestions? Allen PS I also got a Barry King Tapered Maul. It's DA BOMB. So much better than the poly head hammer style Tandy job. Makes the beveling so much more pleasurable! Quote Big Papa Leather
gtwister09 Posted January 8, 2009 Report Posted January 8, 2009 Allen, I have a couple of Henley's and love them. I also have a couple of Peter Main's Henley blades also and love them as well. Peter's blades are much better for lighter leather. For very fine work I have Bob Beards' smallest angled blade and absolutely love it as well. I have a few different ceramic blades but don't use them much. I have not tried one of Paul's blades but I understand that he has an adapter that allows it to fit your knife. I have heard really good reports on his knife and blades. Hope that helps... Regards, Ben Quote
Members Tina Posted January 8, 2009 Members Report Posted January 8, 2009 Hi, If you're into small things I do recomend Pauls knife. I make loads of small intricate patterns and I have the smalles blade in an angle from Leather Wrangler (Paul) This is by far the best I have tried. I have had my knife now for 6 months and so far I have only stroped it, that's all. Quote "He who works with his hands is a laborer. He who works with his hands, and his head is a craftsman. He who works with his hands, and his head, and his heart, is An Artist" http://vildkorpens-laderlya.deviantart.com http://tupali.deviantart.com/
hidepounder Posted January 8, 2009 Report Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) Allen, I'm curious, are any of your other steel blades doing the same thing? Also, are you using a jig to sharpen with? Bob I just read in another post that you're using a graver jig, so sharpening isn't the issue...not sure what's happening there. Might call Barry and ask him about it. I have heard that you can use Pauls blades (Leather Wrangler) in Barry's knives, but I don't know that for sure. I use Beard blades, that I had him make for me and Henley blades. I'm sure Barry will make you another one, and I know Paul and Bob Beard will. Please let us know what you find out...I'm curious about this. Sounds like something different than the normal drag which develops when using steel. Bob Edited January 8, 2009 by hidepounder Quote
Members Big Papa Leather Posted January 8, 2009 Author Members Report Posted January 8, 2009 Hidepounder, Yes, I use a jewelers engraving tool jig to set my angles and then each abrasive change the angle remains the same. It is 1000% more accurate than the Tandy tool jig. The Tandy cheap-o steel blades do the same as I think the angle is a bit shallower than the ceramic. Allen Quote Big Papa Leather
pabloz Posted January 8, 2009 Report Posted January 8, 2009 Allen, The real issue with all blades is the alloy. In our situation we are exposing our blades to a wet environment that has chemicals in it as well. Some leather producers neutralize these chemicals better than others which results in a smoother cutting leather, but there are always some left over. When the blade is exposed to this wet environment it reacts with the water and chemicals and etches, growing microscopic oxide crystals that look like pimples on the surface. This is what causes the drag you feel. The solution to the problem is all in the alloy. I will be presenting, in very graphic ESM detail, this very issue at Wickenberg in March. When you strop the blade after this happens you take off the pimple, polish the surface, wax the metal a little and it will cut smooth again....for a while then the chemical processes starts all over again. I hope this helps a little. Pabloz Quote Paul Zalesak Leather Wranglers Inc. www.leatherwranglers.com
Members Big Papa Leather Posted January 8, 2009 Author Members Report Posted January 8, 2009 Pabloz, If what you say is true, the composition of the blade's steel can have a component that will retard the formation of these crystals and therefore reduce or eliminate the drag? If so, are your blades made with this alloy? I use aluminum oxide abrasives (3 micron) to remove the grind marks before the blades were used. Polished to a mirror finish using a .5 micron diamond powder mixed into a spray. I sit with a strop on my lap as I carve... Even if I strop after just a few minutes of carving the drag is there. Allen Quote Big Papa Leather
pabloz Posted January 8, 2009 Report Posted January 8, 2009 Allen, You are absolutely correct. Carbon and nitrogen are two of those elements that are inert to this environment. The most reactive is iron-iron oxide= rust, aluminum-the alox or aluminum oxide you are using, Chromium (but is also some what reatively reactive, chrome oxide is used to polish gem stones) is typically added to slow this process, which if it constitutes >12% of the steel alloy makes it a "stainless steel", vanadium, tungsten, etc., etc., etc. Yes, our alloy is very resistant to this process. I would love to discusss this in more detail but I type rrreeeaaalllyyy slowly so please call me or PM me your number and I'll call you then you can post what you feel is of significance. Pabloz Quote Paul Zalesak Leather Wranglers Inc. www.leatherwranglers.com
Members steveh Posted January 9, 2009 Members Report Posted January 9, 2009 Barry king blades are quality tool steel, if you strop as needed they cut great. Quote
Members Big Papa Leather Posted January 9, 2009 Author Members Report Posted January 9, 2009 Last night I played around again with the steel blades. I think my technique is more suited for the ceramic as it has a slightly more pointed angle than the Barry King blade. I also looked at the other steel blades that I have bought from Tandy. I played around on some scrap and if I use the filigree blade. I like it better than the regular 1/4" angle steel blade. I do know that the cheaper Tandy blades need more stropping. The Barry King blade is very nice as well. It cuts well but I still bunch the leather in tight curves more so than with the ceramic. Allen Quote Big Papa Leather
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.