Contributing Member wolvenstien Posted January 30, 2008 Contributing Member Report Posted January 30, 2008 Ok, I have never wet molded before... well... not really... and I need advice. I am about to start my rear seat and have decided to stretch/mold the side gusset to fit, and wrap it under the bottom to staple to the pan. I then intend to round braid lace the top to the sides and be complete, but, before I finish with the sides, I want to put a carving onto the gusset. Can I tool it then stretch the leather, and the carving be left intact? I understand that I look at distorting the carving, but would it mess up the depth of the carving and the tooling? Should I tool it after I have stretched it an allow it to dry? How would you do this? If I haven't explained myself clearly and you need farther explanation of what I am trying to be, just ask, and I will try to post pix and make it clear what I am asking. Thanks Mike Quote "The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE Her: Hit Me Him: Do you want me to use the knife? Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!
Members Hidemechanic Posted January 31, 2008 Members Report Posted January 31, 2008 You got me thinking in two different directions and my answer would be confusing. I think you said that you intend to wrap the gusset around the pan to staple from under. I'm guessing you are making your P-pad a rectangle box, is that close? If so, why don't you do it similar to how you did you s-bar pad? Make it to fit the foam. I don't see why you can't just make the 'box' (top and gusset laced) then stuff the foam in and then pull the bottom edge of the gusset around the pan and staple. Get those corners smoothed out then between the corners. Maybe I'm invisioning something different from what you are doing, but I don't see why you are going to do enough stretching to distort your gusset tooling. Maybe I do need some pics. You should be able to turn that gusset leather under while it is 'on the dry' in such a way as to not put too much stretch on it's tooling. What waight is the gusset lether? Let's talk some more. GH Quote You did What??
Contributing Member wolvenstien Posted January 31, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted January 31, 2008 Hide, Yeah, nothing like the ppad... and I guess I wasnt clear enough... this is not the main seat, its the p-seat.... cant do it like the ppad... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=692 I will get pix of the pan and pad on the pseat tomorrow and post em, give you a clear idea what i am doing... Leather will be 3-4 oz for the gusset/sides. Sides will wrap around without seam from front back to the front and seam in the front, tuck around under the pad to staple to the plastic pan, and then top will seam in an oval to the sides. In the back, I want to tool it, but I will have to stretch the leather and form it around the contours of the sides of the pad and pan. Quote "The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE Her: Hit Me Him: Do you want me to use the knife? Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!
Roger Posted January 31, 2008 Report Posted January 31, 2008 why don't you tool it and then stretch it without rewetting? if needed add a bit moisture to the bottom where it wraps around Quote
Roger Posted January 31, 2008 Report Posted January 31, 2008 and why would wrap the side and then lace the top?? go ahead and lace the top to the side then tool the side an install it while still wet from tooling. you are better of using pop rivets over staples. the way veg tan leather shrinks the staples are not the way i would go Quote
Contributing Member wolvenstien Posted January 31, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted January 31, 2008 I dont think rivets will work on the plastic pan.... end up breaking the plastic. Quote "The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE Her: Hit Me Him: Do you want me to use the knife? Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!
Roger Posted January 31, 2008 Report Posted January 31, 2008 I dont think rivets will work on the plastic pan.... end up breaking the plastic. i use rivets in plastic pans. they don't expand.. they pull down Quote
Members Hidemechanic Posted January 31, 2008 Members Report Posted January 31, 2008 Beeza said what I was getting at. I agree with rivits. I've redone my Mag seat and redone it again with the same holes, I do keep different sized rivits on hand for the the corners where the puckers are. Git those pics when you can. GH Quote You did What??
Contributing Member wolvenstien Posted February 1, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted February 1, 2008 Ok, here are the pix I told you I would upload yesterday.... Yesterday was alittle fast paced and did not allow me time to do much... Quote "The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE Her: Hit Me Him: Do you want me to use the knife? Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!
Contributing Member wolvenstien Posted February 1, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted February 1, 2008 What I want to do is wrap the entire side with one piece, starting at the front which is pictured here: And tool the MAGNA Logo on the back here: I am thinking I can cut a 6 inch strip the full length to wrap around leaving 1 1/2 inch to fold under the seat to be attached to the plastic pan. I am thinking I can stretch the leather around it, and connect the ends and allow it to dry, then cut it at the proper height, then take it and cut a top to match the freshly cut sides. Then remove the side, tool the Logo in the back of the side, then align the top with the side and put my holes into the side and top to accommodate the lacing to attach the two together. then dye and finish the two pieces, then lace them together and attach to the pad and pan, and then lace up the seam in the very front of the side where the two ends come together. then wrap underneath the pad to the pan and attach to the pan.... What is wrong with this series of steps? Will this work? Quote "The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE Her: Hit Me Him: Do you want me to use the knife? Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!
Roger Posted February 1, 2008 Report Posted February 1, 2008 looks like you can get away with it on that p-pad. i always leave myself a good 2" - 3" around the parimeter just to be safe. Quote
Contributing Member wolvenstien Posted February 1, 2008 Author Contributing Member Report Posted February 1, 2008 (edited) Cool, thanks Beeza.... maybe I aught pack all this up and send it to you..... Let the Pros deal with it.... Edited February 1, 2008 by wolvenstien Quote "The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE Her: Hit Me Him: Do you want me to use the knife? Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!
Members Hidemechanic Posted February 1, 2008 Members Report Posted February 1, 2008 Wolv, I luv ya man but yer givin me a head ache. I really think you can do this the same way you did your other pad that you had the mis-calculation trouble with(that one must have you thinking too much). I don't see why you can't cut your pieces, tool them, dye them and lace them then slide it over the foam and start snugging and riviting(stapling). I agree with Beez that you can leave extra on your side panel and trim after tacking under. Your lace line is your common line to measure from for the placement of your tooling. If you need to, mark some referrence points to help keep things lined up or you could punch your top holes then start your side panel from where you want to lace it(where the ends come together). Punch a few holes while it is in place. Tie the first hole to the top at that point, press the panel sngly where it needs to go and attatch a few more spots near or at the first turn keep it up to the next turn then the next until you are back at the beginning. This should give you the best referrence for where your tooling should go on the panel and top. If you are concerned that the side wont be the right fit then you can still leave the 'wild' end where it the two meet and snug it to fit (and lace it)at the last minute before you fininsh tacking to the back. I just think you are adding too many steps. It's not that what you are explaining wont work. I just don't like to work too much if I can avoid it. The reason I think this will work is because you are going to make the top piece an particular size that fits the foam shape, then the side panel kind of takes care of itself when you tuck it under to tack it down. that seems like it should work if your top is semetrical as it appears in the pics. Maybe I'm all wet, but this looks like and easier job than the other one you did.Whatever makes you feel better about it we're behind you. Go for it. GH Quote You did What??
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