Let's talk about Saddle Riggings

[mulefool]

Well, I definitely like the "looks" of a Sam Stagg. Definitely gives that period feel and sounds like lookswise it will be appropriate for your saddle. I have to admit I have no experience building a saddle for a Spanish Mustang, mostly QH and mules, plus some Arabs and gaited horses I've primarily built flat plate and in skirt riggings. We all have preferences in what feels right to us so I won't try to talk you into something else. Too bad we can't all get together, pull out your horses and try some different things on them.

[AZThunderPony]

Too bad we can't all get together, pull out your horses and try some different things on them.

There will be some 300 horses or more in Oshoto Wyoming from June 14 to the 18th that you guys could all take notes on. Just come and hang out at the Spanish Mustang Registry 50th Year Celebration!!!

Seriously I'd love to make it possible for your suggestion to happen... Any ideas?

Susan Catt

[mulefool]

Well, that would be a high time. Wish I could make it.

[Don101]

Nice topic and very interesting, i thought i would post a couple of pics of orig saddles from my collection,

this one is a fullseat slick fork with double rigging high back and square skirts

this one is a loopseat slickfork samstag rigging high back and square skirts

[zenjane]

Well, hello! It's taken me a bit to get permission to post here so I'm a bit behind on the timing of this discussion, but I thought I would post a picture of my Spanish Mustang with one of Dave's saddles on him so folks can see how it fits and sits on one Spanish Mustangs back. Jugueton will be 4 this month these pictures were taken this winter. Now if I can figure out how to do that we'll be in business ...

[zenjane]

Here is a 10 year-old Spanish Mustang gelding with another of Dave's saddles.

[AZThunderPony]

Welcome Jane! Glad you finally made it here... I had the same problem getting approved too! But we made it!!! :D Maybe we can make a difference for our breed through these discussions.

If I may without upsetting any apple carts, here I would like to offer what I see with that particular saddle on that particular SM. This is in regard to gaiting. It APPEARS that if Whodie (Jugeton) brought his neck back in Spanish Fashion to gait that the saddle would interfere due to being more forawrd. Also the Spanish style of gaiting creates a bouncing up and down movemnt in the shoulders, (The head becomes still and the shoulders do all the work in the finely trained Spanish Gaiter) I fail to see how the saddle where its positioned in these pictures would not interefere with that also. If he was being asked to move more flat (Like a walker or fox trotter) then maybe it would not hinder or be a concern. But since he is gaited and is built and bred to coil in Spanish fashion, I'd think his best gait will be coiled and up and over rather than flat and down under. I've never seen him in person but I really like him a lot. A very nice compact strong looking gelding.

What do you think???

S

[mulefool]

I thought the saddle looked too far forward as well. I thought I questioned David about that on another thread and he never responded, but I went back and tried to find it and couldn't. :scratchhead: I guess if it's working for you.

[Rod and Denise Nikkel]

We know that different makers use different points at which to mark the full or center fire positions, which of course affects all the other positions. Our questions to saddle makers are: What do you prefer to use as your marking points and why? And is there something that a tree maker could to do make it easier for you?

[bruce johnson]

Denice and Rod,

Actually I think the saddlemakers are as different as anyone here. Some measure full double from the center of the horn base, others use the center of the fork, some use the lowest point of the fork where it hits the bars. Obviously angles of fork placement, even where the fork isplaced, the the horn is placed on the fork (on the back edge of the fork or slightly forward) and other variables all could affect this. I sat in one of Pete Gorrell's classes several years ago. Clint Marrs came in for a few hours - just a real treat to hear his stories. He said the old shops used the lowest point of the front pad as full, and the lowest (widest) point of the rear pad as the other reference (not the cantle as some use). Three-quarters riggings were 3/4 of the way to the front. Likewise 7/8, 5/8, etc. None of the arbitrary one inch back for 7/8, 2 inches back from full for 5/8. I am sure each shop was getting trees from makers that were similar enough that these reference points were fairly consistant. I respect tradition and honor it with using the low point for my "full". It just makes sense to me that the low point should be the pivot. Anything forward of that pulling down should tip up the back of the tree.

Bruce Johnson