Neatsfoot oil, and Mink oil

[Mujician]

In my learning about leather, I have come across people talking about neatsfoot oil as a way of softening leather. Although I was a bit confused when I saw a thread in which someone wrote he uses neatsfoot which stops the leather from getting too soft. Anyway - when tooling and dying veg tan leather, it seems to go quite tough and rigid. My question is: can I use neatsfoot oil when working with dyed veg tan leather, or is it purely to use on plain veg tan leather?  At what stage in the process of casing, tooling, dying, and finishing the leather item can I apply neatsfoot? Am I right in thinking that mink oil is a waterproofing finish to apply when everything else is done?

I have tried to search for answers here but didn't come up with anything that I was looking for.

Many thanks

[buko]

You can use neatsfoot oil anytime after tooling but if you are going to dye the piece use the oil after dying. The oil usually causes more of the dye to come off so be aware of that. I use a 50% beeswax 25% neatsfoot oil 25% beef tallow homemade balm to finish my pieces. I warm the leather before applying to help it soak in. It softens the leather and gives some water resistance to the piece.

Best thing to do is test on some scraps and see what you like the best.

[Mujician]

Thanks Buko - so are you saying that the neats foot should be after dying, but before the finish (i have fiebings resolene) or can it go on after the finish layer?

[buko]

Before the finish but I caution you that if you aren't going to use a natural finish like beeswax or carnuba wax you may not get good results. You are oiling the leather after all and most finishes won't adhere to oily leather. I would test the resolene on some scrap after the oil has "dried" for a couple of days. Kiwi neutral polish may be an option for you rather than resolene since it is designed to go over the top of waxy finishes. 

I don't use resolene so I can't really help you with that one honestly.

[Bob Blea]

Mujician I routinely apply Neatsfoot oil to my projects and then after it soaks in overnight add a coat of lacquer (Wyosheen or Neat lac/Clear Lac) or Resolene as a resist and I never have problems with it adhering to the leather.  Same with using acrylic paints after oiling.  If you put on a light coating it should soak into the leather and you won't have any problems.  But try it on some scrap and get a feel for it before trying it on your project.