Trouble with setting copper rivets

[Richardrn80]

I am working on a project where I am trying to connect pieces of leather with my copper rivets. I have both #9 and #12 rivets. I also have the tools for each size. The issue I’m running into is after I punch down my washer onto the rivet, it comes loose. I have tried switching the different size washers (thinking I had mixed them up) and that didn’t work. I’m really not sure what is going on or what I’m doing wrong. I have ruined so many rivets and I wanted to see if anyone here had any pointers on how to get them to stay tight after I set them with the setter. Is it what I’m using as an anvil? I’m so confused. Thank you in advance for any help and guidance. 

[NCArcher]

It may be poor quality rivets with the hole in the washer very slightly too large. Are you able to try a different source of rivets? I found that using anything other than a block of steel (or an actual anvil) didn't work very well with the copper rivets. You need to peen the post once it is set and cut to the correct length and I couldn't get it to work on anything other than a block of steel. 

[byggyns]

Once you punch down the washer, use some side cutters to trim the excess post. That should leave enough of a burr on the post to hold the washer in place. Then use the ball side of a ball peen hammer to peen the post around on to the washer and lock it all together.

You need a stable base to peen them on. I use the steel rivet setter plate (with the little hollows for the rivet heads and caps for snaps) on top of an end-grain cutting board. Now that I have a bench vise with a decent size anvil, I may start using that as my base.

I'll also agree that the hole in the washer may be a little too large. It should be a struggle to get it to go all the way down. Who did you source your rivets & washers from?

[Richardrn80]

11 hours ago, byggyns said:

Once you punch down the washer, use some side cutters to trim the excess post. That should leave enough of a burr on the post to hold the washer in place. Then use the ball side of a ball peen hammer to peen the post around on to the washer and lock it all together.

You need a stable base to peen them on. I use the steel rivet setter plate (with the little hollows for the rivet heads and caps for snaps) on top of an end-grain cutting board. Now that I have a bench vise with a decent size anvil, I may start using that as my base.

I'll also agree that the hole in the washer may be a little too large. It should be a struggle to get it to go all the way down. Who did you source your rivets & washers from?

I bought them from Buckle Guy and Tandy. 

[BillFranklin]

When I startd I often hit the washer too many times, it made the washer loose  now I strike it once or twice only then trim and peen it. It is easy to lave the post too long also which makes it difficult to set. Burn some rivets practicing and trying different things.    You will find the right combination  

 

 

 

 

[480volt]

If you drive the burr down too far, the compressed leather can force it back up, ruining the interference fit between the burr and the rivet. Might as well toss it at that point. When I cut the shank of the rivet, I try and cut from several different angles if possible, to minimize the ridge left by the sidecutters.

When I’m at home, I set rivets on an anvil (Peter Wright) or on a 1/4” steel plate. I’ve also set rivets out in the field using the cheek of a two-pound single jack as an anvil.

[Webicons]

I purchased my copper rivets and setters from Brettuns.  Good quality and price.  Second the solid base to set the rivets. I used the anvil portion of my vice.  It made a big difference for me. 

https://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/parts/rivets/