Issues finding needles for a post bed SInger 136w110

[rk5n]

I've searched here as well as ISMACS and can't find a definitive source for needles. I usually use #92 thread and want a size 19 needle, probably a LL point. There's three different needle systems I've heard that can fit in this machine, 16x4, 34 and 287. I can't find a source for 16x4 in the US but a lot of places list 34 or 287 as equivalents. Maybe my machine was modified at one point but neither fit all that well. The one needle that came with the machine measures .069" at the shank. 34 needles are too large at .074" and 287 needles are too small at .0655". Unfortunately the only size I have for 287 is a 16 so I can't test whether that's acceptable or not. At this point I'm ready to make my own needle bar and size it for something very common like 135 since it looks like just a piece of quarter inch rod with a hole bored in the end, if only I could figure out how to get it out without removing the post. Can someone with 16x4 needles measure the shank size to see if it's exactly what I need before I go hunting for them? Or would .003" of play between the needle shank and needle bar be acceptable long term?

[Uwe]

According to the Singer 136W110 manual (136w110.pdf) the machine is designed to use 16x226 needles

There are currently three listings on Ebay for that size:

 

There may be other suitable needle systems that share key dimensions. I checked my vintage needle stash, but not a single pack on 16x226 turned up. Lots of close calls as in 16x257, 16x287, 16x231, and the like, but no direct match.

My Organ Needle reference booklet of sewing machines and needle systems shows the Singer 136W110 with Organ needle system PFx34P and an equivalent of 16x2NW.

I have some 16x2 leather point needles. They also have 0.065"/1.5mm  shank diameter (and 1.33"/34mm needle butt-to-eye distance). Those packages in turn list other equivalent needle systems one could search for. It's like some game where one clue leads you to the next one.

I think a bit wiggle room inside the needle bar shaft pocket is okay as long as the inside walls are straight. The needle is going to get pushed against on side the wall anyways by the needle screw and be held in place. Some needle bars don't have a hollow shaft at all, but rather have a open valley cut into one side for the needle to rest against while being clamped in place.

Changing the needle bar would be a last resort. You much more likely to find a workable modern needle system. Rather than making a needle bar from scratch, you'd be better off finding a suitable replacement from another machine. Many needle bars share the same diameter and only vary in length. Cutting off a too-long needle bar at the top is considerably less work than making a whole needle bar from scratch. Removing (most of) the post may well be required to get the needle bar out, not fun.

 

 

 

[rk5n]

23 hours ago, Uwe said:

It's like some game where one clue leads you to the next one.

 

 

 

Truer words have never been spoken. I must have been looking at a manual for a 136w100 when I came up with needing 16x4 needles, I had no idea that subclasses would have different needle systems. I ordered some 16x2nw needles, hopefully those will work, even if the shank might be a little bit of a looser fit. Thanks for the help