c2369zulu Report post Posted December 2, 2018 Hello all, I have made two kangaroo hide bullwhips in the past and am planning to make a third soon. The two bullwhips I did make were made with 4 plaited bellies and an overlay as Bernie Wojcicki demonstrates in his YouTube videos and did not turn out too bad. I was thinking about trying to make a kangaroo hide bullwhip using the two belly, two bolster and an overlay method this time. Is this method better? It seems many of the known whip makers use this method. I know the basics and have the right tools, but am curious how others approach certain steps. I have the following questions below if anyone is willing to share. - Do you use cowhide or kangaroo for the bolsters? Are the bolsters split? If so, to what thickness? If you are cutting an 8 foot bolsters out of roo hide, does it have the one wavy side like lace after it has been cut around the hide? Is it stretched like lace? - I am cutting my lace with a plain Aussie strander and am curious how you guys taper your lace. Let’s say I am starting with 8mm 4 plait on a 2 foot first belly. What is the rule of thumb for width resizing? Do you resize a mm or so every foot, every 2 foot, or? Should all bellies end with a lace width of about 2mm to 4mm or does it depend on how many strands of lace are used for the plait? - Is the core and the transition area on the bellies still bound extremely tight with a waxed artificial sinew when you use the bolster method? - What are the specs and dimensions used for an Indy style whip’s handle (length/knot styles/distance between knots/thickness/palm knot diameter and length/etc.)and how is the transition area built up on the Indy style whips? I have heard some say a yoke should be used and the start of the plait creates the swell effect on the handle at the transition knot. - Do you guys always split your lace. If so, to what thickness to prevent breaks? Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
