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In the market we sell our belts in we are undercutting Tandy and offering a good product for the price. I feel that we may lose some business by backing our belts, because it will cause the price to rise. Or should I just offer different finish levels? Then people can still afford our product and can't groan if they don't buy the 'higher level' belt.... As it is we sell unfinished "kits' for pretty cheap.

Build a man a fire, keep him warm for a day. Set a man on fire, keep him warm for the rest of his life. -Terry Pratchett

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Posted
In the market we sell our belts in we are undercutting Tandy and offering a good product for the price. I feel that we may lose some business by backing our belts, because it will cause the price to rise. Or should I just offer different finish levels? Then people can still afford our product and can't groan if they don't buy the 'higher level' belt.... As it is we sell unfinished "kits' for pretty cheap.

"Every Day Above Ground Is Good"

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Posted

Hi there. I have been doing black leather belts and pouches etc for many years now for security guards and police etc and dont use oil based dyes unless absoluteley nessesary. I have found that the oils never dry and will run if they come into contact with body sweat or other liquids.

I came across a leather technician frome the UK and he operates a leather re-dying company here and sells chemicals some of which I have been using for many years.

These are Water based dyes and sealers which chemically lock together and never run. I usually completely dip my finished leather items into a mix of dye and sealer (sounds crazy I know) then wipe off the excess then allow to dry for a little while then rub on the sealer. This then will dry to a very nice shine and never come off. fantastic.

He also told me to use a concentrated dye to do edges which also has its own sealer to lock in the dye.

He sells clear antique paste for the waxy finish etc and this also is very good.

If anyones interesed I will try and find out what the name of this stuff is. You guys might be able to get it over there somewhere.

In answer to your question about dying the back side. I always usually do something to the back whether its just a clear coat of sealer or a full coating of dye. This is somewhat different to using fully Dye-through leather. That is where the tanned finished colour of the skin is right through the complete thickness of the leather. I realise that when carving one has to use russet or natural veg. Anything other than carving ie hand tooling I would use factory dyed leather.

Cheers

Trevor

Way down under. NZ

"Every Day Above Ground Is Good"

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Posted

Yeah.... Allowing the customer a choice is always a good thing as long as you dont over do it and allow it to become a burden.....

I sell everything I make that is production with the option of it being plain without carving, only a color and finish.... or carved and more intricate... for a higher price.... You will not loose the customers for the lower priced items, and you may gain a few more or convert a few of the lower paying customers with the higher priced goods...

"The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE

Her: Hit Me

Him: Do you want me to use the knife?

Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!

Posted

I don't generally dye the backs of belts/wristbands/etc because of what others have mentioned about "bleeding" dyes. Sometimes, if I'm staining/dyeing the front, and it leaks over onto the back (for whatever reason, usually carelessness on my part), then I will do the back to and seal it best as I can.

But I do prefer the backs to be "clean" (uncolored)

As an aside, when I stain my wood boxes, which I top with leather, I rarely stain the interior. That way, if the customer wants it lined, or doesn't want to risk getting stain on their jewelry/whatever, there's no risk.

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Posted

Hi would like to know if it's possible to put masking tape on the back on my leather stuff?

Even if i'm carefull when dying, a little now and then, the back of my items are stain with dye.

:whatdoyouthink: I would like to know

Patrice

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Posted

Masking tape will pull on the leather making it more 'nappy' when you try to remove it... Plus with the absorbancy of leather, it's hard to keep the dye from bleeding under it anyway.

Build a man a fire, keep him warm for a day. Set a man on fire, keep him warm for the rest of his life. -Terry Pratchett

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Posted

Patrice,

I use painter's tape on the backside of the belts and wristbands I do, and it works really well with water-based dyes like Eco-Flo or even Fiebing's EdgeKote. I haven't experienced any problems with the color bleeding under the tape. As T.C. notes, pulling the tape off will make the back side more nappy, but I like that soft feel anyway.

Give it a try and see if it works for you.

Best, -Alex

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Posted
Patrice,

I use painter's tape on the backside of the belts and wristbands I do, and it works really well with water-based dyes like Eco-Flo or even Fiebing's EdgeKote. I haven't experienced any problems with the color bleeding under the tape. As T.C. notes, pulling the tape off will make the back side more nappy, but I like that soft feel anyway.

Give it a try and see if it works for you.

Best, -Alex

:thumbsup: Thank's!

Can i find painter's tape in every home depot and renovation stores? :dunno:

Patrice

  • Contributing Member
Posted

yeah, the blue painters tape can be found anywhere they sell painting supplies including Wal-Mart....

"The miracle is not how two adults can create a child, the phenomenon is how quickly a child can create two adults." -- VYBE

Her: Hit Me

Him: Do you want me to use the knife?

Her: No, When you hit with a knife, that's STABBING!

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