Mr Beam 2 + some leather bottle craftmanship

[Sensor]

I have searched the web for the creator of the image.. but can't find it.

So thanks to the original artist.. I made the leather bottle and engraved on both sides this imagine on it. 
With the use of a Mr Beam II, stearin and my hands! 
 

 

[mikesc]

I have searched the web for the creator of the image.. but can't find it.

Try tineye.com
The image that you found is probably flat, black and white maybe , or colour, doesn't matter, go to tineye.com , follow their procedure, upload..the original will probably be in the results that they get back..

[Sensor]

Hey Mike,  thank you for the link. 

but I have made this bottle... and just wanted to share the finished product 

[mikesc]

I knew :)..the design of the bottle, the straps and especially the stitching, looks very good too.
I posted re tineye in case it is useful to yourself or anyone else.

btw..just noticed that you "hate dyeing"..get an airbrush, ( paasche VLS is great for dyeing ) and a cheap compressor,( or make a silent one from a fridge motor and a gas bottle or old fire extinguisher and a few parts ) then you won't hate it at all :)

Edited May 6, 2019 by mikesc

[Sensor]

Lol hey Mike.. 

I posted that a while ago. 
And indeed I purchased an airbrush and compressor. 
Any tips on using it for leather?
Tips are always welcome!

[mikesc]

Depends on the airbrush ( different tips, needles and nozzles / cones ) ..General guide to spraying backgrounds , which are like spraying solid colour or sunburst..Spray pressure between 1.5 and 2.2 bar max..spray in over lapping passes horizontally, spray from further back than you'd think, spray off the end of the work..Yes it uses more dye or pigment, but it avoids the build up at the turn point..
Always flush the airbrush thoroughly when you finish, do not put that off, it is way harder to clean later, and using solvents to clean it later will damage the toric joints that keep the needle and the paint cup separate from the rear body of the airbrush.
Use a braided textile coated rubber air hose, they are much more flexible than the clear ones..

Get a dart board, play darts , the action is similar to the control that you need to airbrush well..If you are going to use "masking" use card ones, not tape, tape will leave residues..

HTH :)
ps..some dyes and leather combinations will work better with a drop or two of "wetting agent" in the dye..but test first on scrap..always test on what would be the "top side"

Edited May 6, 2019 by mikesc

[Sensor]

Hey Mike, 

I have a Harder and Steenbeck airbrush. 
But I will give it a try.. and hopefully I will be a happy man once again!

lol

Thank you

[mikesc]

I have a Harder and Steenbeck airbrush.

Sorry, never used one of theirs ( I think ?, I've used and owned lot of airbrushes, may have forgotten , getting older by the minute ;)..I currently have a bunch of Paasches, some Iwatas, some EFBEs, some Rotrings (was Conopois when I got mine ) , some Azteks, couple of Aerographs...and some that I can't remember the names of, out in the atelier, nearly 10 pm here, cooking dinner , log fire is lit, so I'm not going out to look tonight. :)

For dyeing you want a broad spray..( like the VLS gives ) not at all the same type of airbrush , nor needle, tip combination that you'd use for painting realistic eyelashes or hair or fur at life size or smaller. But a double action is always better than a single action for fine control , even if the control is of "amount of dye or paint spraying" and not the width of the line you are drawing..

Edited May 7, 2019 by mikesc
typos

[Sensor]

We are in the same timezone
Bon Apetit! 

Broad spray.. check!
Mine is a dual action airbrush and I plan on using Fiebings dye.

So I got that part covered.. just need time to practice
 

[mikesc]

Merci. :)