Flat bottom British holdall

[ElCamillou]

Hi !

I was looking at several saddle stitched bags made in UK sharing a similar construction.

ie thick bridle leather, zipper and frame on the top and a flat bottom. We can also notice that all those bags show a vertical strip of leather on their narrow sides.

 

William & Son - Travel bag

Simpson London - Heritage weekender

Tanner Krolle - Holdall

Swaine Adeney Brigg - The Cambridge

[ElCamillou]

Sadly I can't really understand how they are stitched.

If we look at the interior, there's no visible stitching for the zipper so I thought the bottom was added in the end.

 

But is it possible to finish sewing the pannels with such a bottom plate ?

 

I'm really really curious to hear how would you construct such a bag ?

Do the vertical strip on the sides play a role ?

What are the first pieces to be sewn together ?

If I had to do it, I think that I would stitch the sides to the bottom first. Then the main zip to those sides. That done, I'd stitch those strips shown on the narrow sides in order to finish forming the bag (though it might be difficult to do so, particularly at the bottom) and I'd finish sewing the drop-in lining. A lined plate seem placed at the bottom on the inside that could help masking the final stitching of the lining. 

Thanks a lot for your ideas !!

Edited January 8, 2020 by ElCamillou
Text added!

[fredk]

You can see the stitching for the zipper along the top on the outside. You can't see it on the inside because its covered by the lining

[fredk]

More: the strap on the ends are to hide the seam and to re-enforce it. The strip across the top sides I think covers a metal bar which makes the side shape and holds it. These bags are commonly called 'Gladstone' bags and have a metal frame within the tops of the sides

[ElCamillou]

Thanks Fred K for your answers! I've got a small wash bag built exactly the same way.

I think you're right for the metal bar, there's also such a u-shapped metal piece in my wash bag right at this place.

Honestly it seemed tricky to me to finish the bag by sewing the bottom part as my left hand would be fully hidden inside the bag while sewing but it's maybe the sole solution. And bridle leather is beautiful but so firm!!