Covering a saddle-maker's stand?

[Squilchuck]

I had this saddle-maker's stand built on top of a salon chair. I'm trying to figure out how to finish the top. One thought was bark sheepskin overall and doubled in wither end for a bit of lift.  But, then it felt a bit too soft when I pressed down on my new saddle tree. Any suggestions? --John

Edited February 4, 2020 by Squilchuck

[bruce johnson]

With the flat sides like that, I'd go for something nonslip. My first one was like that and I chased the first few around most of the time. I tacked on some self padded carpeting with the rubber side up and that helped. I doubled the front. It was OK. Second one I shaped the boards with an angle grinder and put some rock in it that way. It held the trees pretty well and used some closed cell seat foam - better. My last stand was  Ron's. It was shaped and tightly padded with a suede covering. Best one. 

[EdOdgers]

John,

Before you consider the cover material, I strongly recommend that you modify your stand to duplicate a horse's back.  You need to modify the surface that will support the tree bars to "fit" the saddle tree and help hold it in place.  You are going to do a lot of pushing, pulling, pounding, etc. as you build a saddle and you can't have the tree rocking and bouncing around.  Another important consideration is to create that horse-like stand such that the saddle tree will sit level on the stand exactly like it is on a horse.  Without knowing what's level, you run the risk of cutting skirts, jockeys, and other design features out of level when its finally placed on a horse.  More importantly you need to have the tree level to properly construct the gound-seat and ensure that the contour and rise of the seat will be appropriate for a good ride.  If your stand doesn't ensure your tree is level, you are likely to build saddles that feel or appear tipped down-hill or uphill.  My earliest saddle stands were not built to mirror a horse and it hurt my saddle making.  

There are probably a lot of ways to construct a contoured saddle stand to replicate the horse's back.  The method I've used is to glue high density building styrofoam, 1 1/2" to 2" thick, to the boards then sculpt with a shoeing rasp and disc sander.  The reference angle at the wither area is about 90 degrees and at the loin, under the cantle, about 130 degrees.  Use a saddle tree as your model and to check your progress.  It's a slow process but is more than worth it.  Once you are satisfied that you have replicated a horse's back, cover with rough-out chap leather by stapling to the boards as if you are upholstering furniture.  You'll probably replace the cover leather over time but the base should serve for years.

To ensure that the tree sits on your stand level, place a typical tree on a good-backed horse with a typically thick pad.  Make sure the horse is standing on level ground.  Next, take a two foot carpenters level and strike a line from the top of the cantle to the back of the horn.  Mark the "level line" on the back of the horn with a magic marker.  You can now replicate the level tree as you modify you saddle stand.

Another must-do for your saddle stand is to devise a "hold-down" strap. You'll be using the hold-down constantly so make sure it's handy and effective. Most use a foot operated hold down.

Best of luck;

Ed 

ps:  I'll take a few photos of my stand and attach them tomorrow.

 

[Squilchuck]

Thanks for the good advice, guys.  Still a work in progress as the tree came late and the weather has been great for outdoor ventures.  I used a horse blanket to give some shape and lift to the front, but I'll rethink that based on your advice.  --John

[EdOdgers]

John,

Here are a few pics of one of my saddle stands.  It's pretty simple and basic.  This one was recently recovered with rough-side-out chap leather for good grip.  The cut outs from the middle of the supporting surfaces are there so I can mold a "waist" into the skirts below the center of the tree to mirror the narrow region behind the horses shoulder, where the rider's legs hang.  I do this to reduce the need for the rider to "break in" the saddle, and to ensure the rigging lies flat and accurately when being installed.  The pictures don't show it well but the tree makes nice even contact with the stand in the same way I want it to fit a horse.  The photo with the carpenter's level indicates how I "calibrate" the tree, as described previously, to ensure that the stand carries the tree level, as it would on a horse. 

Another note is that I use a different hold-down strap when installing seats.  It's wider and tapered toward the edges so that it doesn't leave any marks on the seat when I work a rub stick over it.  I'm protective of the surface of that seat hold-down as well as the rub stick to prevent marking up a smooth-out seat.

[Squilchuck]

Thanks for the photos -a great illustration. Under the leather covering is the shaped styrafoam you mentioned? -John

[EdOdgers]

Yes.  High density styrofoam was glued to 3/4" hardwood boards then sculpted to achieve the horse shape.  I also made a similar stand with thick white pine planks, then sculpted the pine.  This worked well too but was a lot more work to carve.  I used white pine because it is a softer wood and has good carving qualities, plus its what I had on hand. The sculpted wood was later covered with a 1/4" thick foam rubber for a bit of cushion, then leather.  The foam is much easier to sculpt and as a base it doesn't require the rubber padding as it has a little bit of give that helps the tree make good contact.  Having done both, I recommend the styrofoam for ease of construction.

Both stands described above hold a tree well and have a good "feel" to them when pounding, rubbing, carving, etc.  Some stands I've seen (some commercially available) are heavily padded to create a conforming shape.  I haven't worked on these stands but suspect they would be too bouncy.  I appreciate a solid base particularly when nailing, carving a ground seat, or molding a seat.

The styrofoam I used was the variety of building foam board used under concrete floors.  It's the blue or pink stuff at building supply stores; Extruded Polystyrene (XPS). Its similar and looks like the foam board installed on the exterior walls of new homes but is a denser version or higher compressive strength rating (25 psi or greater).  The standard density material would probably work fine but not last as long before compressing and deforming from repeated use of numerous of saddles.

[Squilchuck]

Thanks! -John