NyxV Report post Posted June 26, 2020 I'm so glad to have found this forum! I've been sewing leather garments (primarily jackets/coats and pants) for a long while now, on a home sewing machine - a mid range Juki. And it does fairly well, but not the best - it's really only able to handle a couple layers of 2-3oz garment leather, and it struggles with any joined seam areas - slipped stitches, feed ripping up the finish, etc. So I think I'm ready to move into a heavier machine, but I'm honestly at a loss. I've read the -excellent- thread here about what sort of machine one wants for sewing leather, and got some great theoretical info, but now I'm down to the "pick an actual machine" part, and struggling to choose. There seem to be a couple of major brands/makers - Cobra and Sailriite being the ones I came across the most, and Cowboy? But I'm hoping someone might have a good run down of "this brand is good for this" or even more specific "this machine from this brand...." or just a good breakdown of pros/cons of each. I'm in the SoCal Los Angeles metro, so access to places in general isn't an issue, but with everything going on right now, a lot of in person places are closed, including my local Tandy, which is where I would usually go for a recommendation here I am looking to only do garments - no bags/belts/holsters/etc. Space is moderately an issue, I already have several machines up and running for non leather work, but provided it's not.....gigantic, it's probably not a big deal. I do like having my table to work with, because coats get heavy to hold onto. Budget isn't super an issue, but obviously, I'd love to spend less money, rather than more. I know all the brands I've looked at seem to have very helpful "please contact us to decide which machine you'd like!" which is great, but I'm hoping for outside/less biased input before I take that step. Given all that, any particular resources I'm missing that could help me make a choice, or your personal recommendations? Thanks in advance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted June 26, 2020 This work calls for a compound (triple) feed walking foot machine, with heavy duty take-up and tensioning parts, that can handle mid-weight bonded thread and larger than usual needles. You should look into a Juki DNU-1541, or an LU-1508NH. These are flatbed compound feed walking foot machines that can climb over seams up to 3/8 inch thick. They should be available from industrial sewing machine dealers in SoCal. They use bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread, or even monofilament thread, in sizes 46 through 138. The 1508NH can even handle #207 bonded thread. Chances are fair to middling you will find a dealership that has one set up that you can sit down at and try out. If so, bring a sample of your leather that is typical of the thinnest and thickest you will need to sew. If your thickest seams are 3/8 inch, compressed, the 1508NH might be a better choice. Most leather jackets are sewn with #92 and/or #138 bonded thread, depending on the thickness and strain placed on a given seam. Number 92 thread has 15 pounds breaking strength while #138 is rated 22 pounds test. Number 207 thread is best used for the thickest seams under the most strain, from 1/4 to 3/8 inch. It has 33 pounds breaking strength. Cobra makes a Class 20 that can handle this work. They are located in Ontario, California. Cowboy has a similar machine (I think it is called the CB1508) and is based in Toledo, Ohio. Both are advertisers with us (see the banners at the top of the page) and stand behind what they sell. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NyxV Report post Posted June 26, 2020 Thank you for this excellent info Wiz. I'll focus on these for my research. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites