Jordan Report post Posted September 25, 2007 A couple of practice photos of my first conceal carry holster using a lightbox I made from the how to posted elsewhere on this site, still need practice and more lights to shine thru the tissue paper, but the pics at least didn't turn out like a black blob the other ones did. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
abn Report post Posted September 26, 2007 Wow. Very nice! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted September 26, 2007 thanks, I couldn't find one that fit a bersa so made one, enjoyed the process of design and constuction enough that I am contemplating a business at it. Figure with 80 million plus gun owners there may be room for one more custom holster maker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JustWakinUp Report post Posted September 26, 2007 Very cool, how did you mold? Oh and the lightbox, the pics came out looking just fine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted September 26, 2007 used my wife's food saver put the pistol in one bag, sandwiched leather in a second bag and boned it through the bag then punched all the holes and sewed it together. Experiment that worked pretty good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Craw Report post Posted September 26, 2007 Hey Jordan, Nice job on the holster! I especially like the method of sewing on either side of the weapon. It's very creative. I have one suggestion to make, based on over thirty years of concealed carry and almost that many of holster making. With an IWB rig that is molded as well as yours is, having the weapon leave the holster without you asking it to is not a great concern. What is an immense concern is drawing the weapon when you desperately need it, and having that beautifully molded holster COME WITH IT. As with most things I know, I learned that the hard way. I am not a fan of metal belt clips, but whatever type of belt attachment system you use should go on easy and come off hard. Having to fight to get it off at the end of shift is a good thing. Just a suggestion for whatever it's worth. I'd say you're well on your way to having a good business in holster making if that's what you decide to do. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted September 26, 2007 (edited) I know what you mean about the fit and ease of draw, at this point the pistol seems to click in place and comes out without much of a tug. I too am not to impressed with metal clips they don't conceal well and I realy don't have much confidence in their holding power.The next one I do will have some other attachment arraingment probably sewn loops with fairly substancial snaps. Thanks for the input I can really use the suggestions and advise at this early stage of my research. I also need to add a wood dowel for a sight channel on the next one I think. Edited September 26, 2007 by Jordan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Craw Report post Posted September 27, 2007 On a weapon with a large front sight, a sight channel is OK for the first inch or so behind the sight, but much past that it's wasted work since the draw of the weapon pivots the muzzle down away from the front of the holster. I think some of these sewn-in, full length sight channels are just gimmicks to sell holsters. Look in any well-used combat holster and you won't see drag marks from the front sight in too many of them. You will be better served in perfecting your holster retention system. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted September 27, 2007 Yes I think you are right as you draw, the muzzle does go down and away from the leather into a more open area of the holster, probably a marketing ploy from some advertizing firm with fuzz on the brain, leather fuzz on your front sights does seem to be a buzz word in all the magazines these days. Besides, I don't think you would be noticing a little fuzzball on the business end in a high stress fire situation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 27, 2007 Hi Jordan, I carried a Gold Cup for years, and that has a really aggressive front sight. It never even marked the holster, so obscessing over the front sight might be wasted. I wore mine about 4 o'clock so I was rotating the butt forward and the muzzle back during draw. Wheel guns were always that way because of the trigger guard retention systems used then. You could put a couple of belt loops with linge 24 snaps (one ways even), they even make SS hard action snaps, but they might be overkill, but those belt clips are not really secure in my opinion and experience, they tend to ride up over the belt with the detent resting on the belt with normal movement, whereas good snaps on loops stay put. It might just be me, but I like a retnetion strap on an auto (might just be the old cocked and locked days); I don't think I ever had one without it, inside or outside, I've seen a few without them, just not my cup of tea. Art I also need to add a wood dowel for a sight channel on the next one I think. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jordan Report post Posted September 27, 2007 Haven't had much time this week to do any design work, been researching and writing a business plan looking at issues like shop space and equipment needs. My plan is to offer maybe 4 to 5 styles of holster each with different features like inside and outside wear, cross draw, straps and snaps etc., with perhaps matching belts and magazine cases. I would also like to offer range bags in the future. I appreciate all the comments as I would rather find out stuff now rather than 6 months down the road after having made major financial commitments. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites