Topcoat question

[abn]

To expand a bit on what Scouter is saying, it's true that the older spirit-based dyes consist of pigment particles suspended in alcohol. The failure of some of these particles to be absorbed into the leather causes rub-off. Now, the new water-based dyes, like Eco-Flo, contain liquid pigment. The result is no rub-off, but the trade-off is that this dye is more sensitive to water exposure.

It's my opinion that your holster is probably fine just the way it is. Most of your dye probably absorbed and Leather Balm's waxy finish will provide some measure of water resistance. Anytime I've ever tried to "re-do" a finish, I've always screwed it up and made it worse, so proceed with caution! :excl:

In the future, you're probably going to want to use Super Shene or Satin Shene, as Scouter suggests. It's a good acrylic finish that is water-resistant, but allows absorption of conditioners.

Alex

[bcurrier]

Hello Wag, Just a quick note- Dyes and paints are nothing more then pigments suspended in either a water or solvent base. When we stain, dye or paint an object, the thicker the pigment the less absorption.

The technical difference is that dyes bond chemically with the material being dyed, while paint pigments do not. More accurately, they actually change form. Dyes need reagents to trigger the chemical reactions, and not just for the bond, but to make them colorfast. Those can be in the dye already or added separately. There are fewer available reagents for water-based dyes and very few good ones. The reagents are typically strong alkalis (sometimes acids) or metal salts, which can be handled properly in an industrial environment and removed from or corrected for in the material being dyed, but those considerations obviously have to be compromised for a pre-mixed or home-use product.

Dye problems are compounded with a material like leather in that moisture and the various fats and oils contained in it absorb the dyes also - and don't bond with the dye, unlike the tissues themselves. Even the best dyes are problematic for leather because of the huge variations in hides, tanning methods and materials, and condition. Add that to the need to use an off-the-shelf product and the results are bleed, rub-off, splotchiness, and fading.

Bill

Edited February 7, 2008 by bcurrier

[Warren]

I've used Tan Cote on all my holsters so far and have never had any problems with dye bleeding. One of my holsters was accidentally left outside at deer camp during a rain storm. It sat in water all night in the bed of a truck. We stuffed it with paper to draw the water out of the inside and let it dry slowly. When it was dry the gun still fit and the color didn't bleed. I don't think you can ask for more than that.

[kseidel]

Fiebiengs makes a product called colorless harness dressing. It is one of the best kept secrets in the business! It is a durable finish that seals out stains, protects the finish, seals dyes, and is not affected by water. It can be re-applied many times without noticable buildup, and dries to a satin finish. It protects nearly as well as laquer, but can be oiles through without stripping first. It is hard to find a supplier who stocks it, and takes some practice to learn to apply without streaking, but well worth the effort. Keith

[LuisPaulo]

Hi.

About Breathable and Non breathable seals.

Some people here critique some of my works (sheaths) because I use acrylic finish that "seal" the leather. They said don't let the leather "breath" and this deteriorate the leather. Is it true ?????

Regards from Brazil.

[abn]

I don't think acrylic finishes completely seal the leather. I've used Satin Shene for five years now, and I've never had a problem conditioning the leather later, whether using Lexol or neatsfoot oil or something similar. A good test is to take an oiled rag and run it across a piece of leather finished with acrylic. After a minute or so, you should see that the oil has absorbed -- i.e. it's not still on the surface making the item slick.

I assume there are products out there that can completely seal the leather, but I guess they would be some sort of lacquer that would sit on top of the leather forming a hard barrier. As you're aware, acrylic products mostly absorb into the leather (not sit on top of it), and this allows them to breathe.

Someone else here may offer a different opinion, but my experience leads me to believe that acrylic finishes are breathable and conditionable ones.

Alex