How do I do stingray inlays?

[gearsmithy]

Anyone have a best practice approach to doing stingray inlays? I've got a few ideas but they're all untested. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[bruce johnson]

GS,

I have done a fair amount of the inlays on spur straps, checkbbok covers, small stuff like that. Apparently stringray is fairly abrasive on jeans as an inlaid saddle seat. It is used as an abrasive in some parts of the the world. I use the small skins from Jerry VanAmburg, and he usually has some smoking deals at the shows and lots of colors. I usually stock up on stingray and frogs with him. Frog makes a cool inlay too, although not as durable as ray. The beads are fairly small, and I have had no problems sewing it on my machines. I back it up with plugs from whatever I have cut out for the inlay. I just run the plug edges around on the belt sander or dremel to make them slightly smaller and allow for the thickness of the inlay without distorting the shape. Cut the inlay slightly over sized, glue it to the plug and sandwich it with a lining. I cut the stingray with those scissors that used to be advertised to cut pennies. They sell them in the bargain bins at the hardware stores. I like my knives enough to not use them. The edges of some of the beads if cut through will be sharp, and I have got a few raycuts (like a paper cut) handling them. The dremel with a sanding drum will smooth them up if they are not inlaid I am told.

[greg gomersall]

Bruce I've done a dozen or more inlaid saddle seats using stingray and have not had one complaint of the stingray wearing anyones jeans out and some of these rigs are being used by guys riding hard all day every day. In fact i just started a rig today for a customer who this will be his second stingray inlay from me. I know thats the first thing people say when they look at the stingray but I have yet to meet anyone who has one that says this and I know Steve Mason has done several as well. If you know anyone with a different experince firsthand I would like to know.

The most important thing with an inlay is that besides being inlaid the leather has to countersunk as well or it won't be much fun to ride. Greg

[bruce johnson]

Greg,

Good deal! I have been wanting to try it, but have been a little gunshy. Probably one of those legends that gets started and keeps going. One of my motorcycle riding customers told me that it does wear out a patch and is pretty slick, but that may be more road vibration than we deal with on a saddle. There aren't enough guys around here riding one to see how it has worked out. The ropers and barrel racers are still wearing out the ostrich seats when that fad hit 4-5 years ago. Last year at the finals, everybody was selling them with stingray seats, from pretty plain colors to flames and camo. Any problems sewing the stingray with bigger beads on your machine? Also, what kind of padding are you using underneath it? Thanks,

[gearsmithy]

So you actually cut the shape of the inlay out of the top surface piece and back it up with a liner? I was wondering if you could just undercut bevel the shape out of the top surface piece, matt down the background and use contact cement to hold the inlay in place? I'm thinking it might give a cleaner inlay. I've never done an inlay before so this is all new to me.

[greg gomersall]

Bruce I've had no problem sewing it. With the skirting being on top of the ray the needle has lots of support to help prevent deflection by the time it hits the ray. I am using a high densisty quick recovery foam in the inlay 1/4" thick that I get from MacMaster-Carr. I can get you the part # and contact info for you if you need it. Greg

Gearsmithy I think you want the edges cut at a 90 on your type of inlay the countersinking I was refering to was for a saddle seat. Greg

[gearsmithy]

So you're saying do something like this.

[greg gomersall]

Do like bruce sugested and use the piece you cut out of the center to raise your ray up flush with the surface. If you have a splitter you could take a thickness equal to the ray off of the plug and have a real nice fit. Greg

[gearsmithy]

Do like bruce sugested and use the piece you cut out of the center to raise your ray up flush with the surface. If you have a splitter you could take a thickness equal to the ray off of the plug and have a real nice fit. Greg

You mean something like this?

So how do you keep the plug from coming out? contact cement against a liner? Sorry for all the questions, never done an inlay before

[greg gomersall]

combine post 7 drawing with post 9 drawing and you have it your stitching thru the top layer should go thru the stingray as well while the plug keeps the exposed ray up flush with the surface of the top layer

[H factor]

I LOVE THIS FORUM!!! ALL GREAT IDEAS GUYS! I've been stumped on this for a while and has had me "gun shy" aswell. thanks for sharing guys!

[cmantz]

Is it possible to sew stringray that is an overlay vs. an inlay? I am working on a halter for my daughter and was just planning on doing an overlay but now I am concerned about the stitching line staying nice and straight due to those little beads. I am wondering if I should just go ahead and put another layer on top and turn it into an inlay.

[TN leather]

CMantz

I have used sting ray a little the past few years and in my experience it has been best to hide the edge of the sting ray. If you try to sew it without covering the edge/ stich line, it is easy to get uneven stiches or a far more bothersome issue is those little beads come off leaving unsightly white spots. I covered them with dye once and it is noticeable up close.

Most of mine I have done as in post #7. But I like the combine #9 idea…..

Warning though after some use the pretty color comes off (unevenly) and you are left with a off white bone color. ( this according to the wallet in my pocket at the moment.)

Edited February 19, 2013 by TN leather

[cmantz]

I went ahead and did it like #7....we shall see how it looks when i get it back from my "sew" guy

[Sir Derrin]

I like the inlay information Thanks!