making/ molding a holster

[figthnbullrider]

hey yall i want to make a holster for my dads 40 and i was wondering what yall do to mold it like that. also how thick of leather are you using.

[Randyc]

Bullrider

These are the steps I use to build a holster. I myself use an arbor press for my initial forming of the holster, then I use my hands and sometimes molding tools to complete the job. You do not really need the press. All of your molding/boning can be done by hand. Different holster makers use different steps in the building process. Some stitch the holster prior to molding and some stitch after molding.

For pocket and IWB Holsters I use 6-7 Oz. vegatable tanned leather. For belt holsters, I use 8-9 oz. vegatable tanned leather. Best advise I can give you is to study the postings on this forum. Theres some real good holster makers hanging out here with a wealth of knowledge.

1.After patterning, cutting, evening, edgeing,and dyeing, I glue the holster together with (Barges Cement)

2. I layout my stitch lines with a groover.

3. I stitch the holster.

4. I soak the holster for 15-30 seconds in hot tap water with a couple of drops of "Dawn" dish soap.

5. I let the holster dry to the point of the leathers natural color returning and the leather feeling cool to the touch.

6. I wipe the pistol down with a lightly oiled rag.

7. I place the pistol (naked without seran wrap) into the holster.

8. I mold the holster to my satisfaction.

9. I remove the pistol from the holster as soon as I'm finished molding.

10. I allow the holster to dry.

11. I finish and burnish the edges

12. I photograph the holster.

13. I post the photo on this forum for you guys to critique, praise, laugh at or write whatever you guys think of my holsters.

Good Luck!

Randy

[Jordan]

Randy you forgot step 9&1/2......Clean and put away the weapon. Heheheheh. Jordan

[Regis]

Good list. I mostly dye mine at step 10 & 1/2 and I do use thin plastic bag for weapon. But, I must admit that 10 & 1/2 is about how many months I've been making holsters.

Edited February 8, 2008 by Regis

[Billsotx]

I follow about the same procedure as Randy listed, but I do all my molding by hand; that is with hand tools - antlers and the handles of awls; sometimes a whatever laying there on the bench looks right so I use it. This entire rig (attached) is 8 oz., belt liner split to about 4 oz., the pouches are eight. Don't expect to get fine detail from the heavier weights of leather. As far as your molding and details. Most folks start working their leather way too soon; they're pushing lots of water and getting wrinkles and stretch marks. Case your leather and watch for it to dry to the point it is just turning back to it's natural color, then start your molding process. Don't rush, the leather is still plenty wet inside, take your time. Watch to see if you're pushing water, you don't want that in hand molding. I don't know about using a press. If you're pushing water, stop and wait another 20 to 30 minutes and start again. Humidity makes this variable and there's all kinds of voodoo so keep notes. Leather ain't leather. The four holsters in the pix were all cut adjacently from the same side and I felt differences as I worked them. They're for different N-frame revolvers if you're wondering why the moldings are different. The customer couldn't send his four guns and I didn't have the exact models in some cases so I went easy on the details in that case. If you're molding flesh out, which I mostly do, watch the inside - the grain side - for the color change, it's easier to gauge the casing on the grain side. Don't expect leather from different tanners to work the same. Expect water from different regions to case differently. I have access to both soft and hard water and there's a big difference in casing. That old saw - "They all the same but different!" - applies to leathercraft. I use real guns if I have them. I don't stick them in plastic bags because I want an exact fit. I want 'em as tight as Dick's hat band when they dry. After 48 hrs. I spray them thoroughly with silicone spray and put the gun in the holster to set over night, then remove the gun and let dry another 24 hrs. The holster almost spits them out after that process. Break-in is smooth. As far as casing, if you wait until the point I described above, you will not find moisture on the gun when you remove it after molding. If doubt this, shove it in the holster and immediately pull it out. It'll be dry. If it's not you're working too wet. That said, clean the gun when you done; wipe it down good. You'll have blue marks inside the holster. You'll have them eventually if you use it, unless you dye it. If the customer doesn't like that, he doesn't want what I do. There's lots of holster makers and I'm kind of set in my ways.

Randy gave you all the secrets except one - repetition - you'll probably have to make a few before you're happy. Repetition is the mother of skill!

Good luck and let us see your new holster when you're done.

[Randyc]

Jordan,

I left step 9.5 out on purpose. I haven't figured out how to get my bore brush down the barrel of my blue guns.

Bill,

Thanks for expounding on wet molding. I even learned someting!

Randy

[carpfisher]

Rough side out!? Not that is something I never would have thought of. I'll have to try that. Base on Bill's instructions, i have ben working way too wet, and removing the gun way too soon. Looks like I'm making a holster thgis week end. More un-scheduled practive (nice quote!)

[John D Dennehy]

I follow about the same procedure as Randy listed, but I do all my molding by hand; that is with hand tools - antlers and the handles of awls; sometimes a whatever laying there on the bench looks right so I use it. This entire rig (attached) is 8 oz., belt liner split to about 4 oz., the pouches are eight. Don't expect to get fine detail from the heavier weights of leather. As far as your molding and details. Most folks start working their leather way too soon; they're pushing lots of water and getting wrinkles and stretch marks. Case your leather and watch for it to dry to the point it is just turning back to it's natural color, then start your molding process. Don't rush, the leather is still plenty wet inside, take your time. Watch to see if you're pushing water, you don't want that in hand molding. I don't know about using a press. If you're pushing water, stop and wait another 20 to 30 minutes and start again. Humidity makes this variable and there's all kinds of voodoo so keep notes. Leather ain't leather. The four holsters in the pix were all cut adjacently from the same side and I felt differences as I worked them. They're for different N-frame revolvers if you're wondering why the moldings are different. The customer couldn't send his four guns and I didn't have the exact models in some cases so I went easy on the details in that case. If you're molding flesh out, which I mostly do, watch the inside - the grain side - for the color change, it's easier to gauge the casing on the grain side. Don't expect leather from different tanners to work the same. Expect water from different regions to case differently. I have access to both soft and hard water and there's a big difference in casing. That old saw - "They all the same but different!" - applies to leathercraft. I use real guns if I have them. I don't stick them in plastic bags because I want an exact fit. I want 'em as tight as Dick's hat band when they dry. After 48 hrs. I spray them thoroughly with silicone spray and put the gun in the holster to set over night, then remove the gun and let dry another 24 hrs. The holster almost spits them out after that process. Break-in is smooth. As far as casing, if you wait until the point I described above, you will not find moisture on the gun when you remove it after molding. If doubt this, shove it in the holster and immediately pull it out. It'll be dry. If it's not you're working too wet. That said, clean the gun when you done; wipe it down good. You'll have blue marks inside the holster. You'll have them eventually if you use it, unless you dye it. If the customer doesn't like that, he doesn't want what I do. There's lots of holster makers and I'm kind of set in my ways.

Randy gave you all the secrets except one - repetition - you'll probably have to make a few before you're happy. Repetition is the mother of skill!

Good luck and let us see your new holster when you're done.

Hey Bill, How's it going? Cooper and Bruce both would chastise the lot of you. Check the weapon before anything else.

I just figured I would chime in and let you know that I joined this nice little groupand started posting today. I recognized your pictures before reading the post. Nice to see you in here.

Catch ya later,

John D

[Jordan]

You're a crckup randyc, they make drill presses that will bore it out for ya. And yes numba one never ever forget to make sure that it ain't loaded.

[Hidemechanic]

The term 'HOT' always makes me nervous, so for those new to leather, anything near warm is suficiant for almost every leather job.

If it's too hot for me it's too hot for leather.

I like the casing route that Bills mentioned, then no worries. GH

[Billsotx]

Hey Bill, How's it going? Cooper and Bruce both would chastise the lot of you. Check the weapon before anything else.

I just figured I would chime in and let you know that I joined this nice little groupand started posting today. I recognized your pictures before reading the post. Nice to see you in here.

Catch ya later,

John D

Welcome John! Good to see you hear. Our knowledge base grows in leaps and bounds. You're right! They're probably spinning in their graves. Shame on me. I know better. Assume nothing - Check for clear!

John's right-on safety wise: "All guns are loaded!" Treat 'em that way. The four rules apply, even in a fight. If you shoot yourself you defeat your purpose.

[John D Dennehy]

Bill and I found that we had mutual friends from the past. One is considered the Father of Practical Pistol Shooting and the other designed and built holsters that have influenced all holster makers since.

Y'all take care,

John D

[Randyc]

You're a crckup randyc, they make drill presses that will bore it out for ya. And yes numba one never ever forget to make sure that it ain't loaded.

Jordan

You are correct. Rule number 1 is making sure the weapon is unloaded. I train rookie cops. I should know better

But, how do I make sure my drill press isn't loaded? Do I just remove the bit?

Randy

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I assume you two (wildirishrose and Billsotx) are talking about Nelson and Bianchi? If so, what a fortunate opportunity to spend a little time with the guys that pioneered our trade. It would be great if you guys could share a little about your experiences with us, if you ever get the time.

To the OP, get some scrap and practice a bunch, until you're happy with the looks. I try to remember one thing when it comes to molding: less is more. The more I mess around with trying to improve my boning, the less the holster looks clean and professional.

[John D Dennehy]

Don't get me started Broomstick because I can get mighty windy. LOL

I might just stick with inserting tid bits here and there as the situation pesents itself.

I am darn sure not one of the Pioneers at all. Just happened to be related to someone with connections. I tagged along, learned, and practiced the things I was taught.

John D

[Billsotx]

I assume you two (wildirishrose and Billsotx) are talking about Nelson and Bianchi? If so, what a fortunate opportunity to spend a little time with the guys that pioneered our trade. It would be great if you guys could share a little about your experiences with us, if you ever get the time.

To the OP, get some scrap and practice a bunch, until you're happy with the looks. I try to remember one thing when it comes to molding: less is more. The more I mess around with trying to improve my boning, the less the holster looks clean and professional.

Boom, like your web. Good stuff there.

John D. was referring to Jeff Cooper and Bruce Nelson. Unfortunately I wasn't smart enough to talk to Bruce about leather work. When we talked we were young and I was dumb. I'd been making holsters before that, but our communications were about work and shooting. He was a narc and I was a K9 cop and we were a thousand miles apart. We were both engrossed in The Modern Technique and had law enforcement in common. We were both learning to teach and Bruce was Cooper's first ops guy when Jeff opened API a.k.a. Gunsite. We later had a common thread there, in that I was a staff guy at Thunder Ranch Texas, and the director, Clint Smith of TRT, was also one of Jeff Cooper's former ops guys. Nelson and Smith were close friends. I learned a lot about gun leather at TRT because we saw everything you could imagine come across that ranges. Students brought the good, the bad and the ugly. Oh, how one learns!

Nelson was a strong influence on the modern holster, but so was Milt Sparks and now Tony Kanaley - www.miltsparks.com. One aspires to meet the standard set by those three. I met Tony at TRT but I never discussed gun leather with him - just never had time for that. I've seen plenty of his work - there's none better. TRT was all about shooting, and Tony, a real shooter, took several classes up there; they sold his gun leather in their pro shop. The ten years I was there I did watch gun leather. That place was a proving ground without equal. I saw a lot and I made notes - what worked and what didn't. I got nothing in it - but if it's stamped Milt Sparks, Idaho - it works.

I talk to John Bianchi every once in a while, and we have talked gun leather - mostly about making tools. He talks freely and he teaches gun leather. He's forgot more about leather than I'll ever know. Bruce Nelson studied under John so there's another connection there too - a small world. Another old timer I speak with often and we do talk gun leather, is Thad Rybka. TR taught at TRT also and that's where I met him, but I knew his gun leather from early on - top notch! You can seen Chic Gaylord's design in TR's work and he makes no bones about Gaylord having influenced him, along with Nelson his peer.

Getting back to where this thread began, there's always something overlooked: another little touch you can do - after molding, gently pull the gun out of the holster, don't just rip it out, go gently so as not to distort what you worked so hard to form, then gently and ever so carefully squeeze the leather back into place. In the end you'll have a nice tight fit.

A holster starts to stretch the first time you put a gun in it and it eventually becomes too loose. At that point it should be retired, but most folks keep using them long after their service life; they don't want to spend money. I'd ask, "What's your life worth?" Bruce Nelson once said that a holster's life is about 5 years, and my practical experience is just that - 5 or 6 years. Of course that all depends on use, and Bruce said that too. And we talked about the other extreme which we see all too often - trash gun leather. A guy or gal spends $2,000.00 on a custom pistol and then shoves it in a $20.00 holster - usually a nylon bag - Go figure! - I don't get it. I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir and I'll get off my soap box and back to leather.

Let's keep this thread running on and learn - "how to make & how to mold holsters". I know I've got a lot to learn and this is one place to do that.

[Jordan]

I'm all set, mind is open and ready to soak up all the tidbits I can get.

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

Thanks guys for the replies, and to the OP for letting me hi-jack your thread for a moment. I am not the best maker by far, and there are some folks on here who could definitely show me a thing or two. That having been said, I have considered making a video showing how I mold my holsters cause there just isn't really anything out there for folks to learn to bone modern holsters (or at least nothing I have seen, so if you know of one, please point me in the right direction). I've even spoken with a local that shoots hunting videos for a living about the cost of filming and all that fun stuff.

Figthnbullrider, post some pics when you get some examples to show us. I'll bet someone on here can help critique and instruct you on how to improve your efforts.

[kman458]

Wow, this is some thread with all the pro makers adding to the info. I wish I could afford to buy a holster from each of you but alais I can not and that is why I am going to make my own. Keep the info coming and I will owe all y'all commision on it.