Gallo Report post Posted February 24, 2022 I making a belt, just one layer. What do you do to the inside of the belt? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tsunkasapa Report post Posted February 24, 2022 Some I line, some I just dye the back. Depends on the type of belt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomE Report post Posted February 24, 2022 So it depends on the type of leather. Bridle leathers typically have a "moss-back" a.k.a. pasted back that is smooth and dense. The fibers on the flesh side are essentially glued together with a flexible resin. A finisher from Hermann Oak Leather Co told me the terminology moss-back or mossed comes from the outdated process of making a glue-like substance by boiling peat moss. There are commercial products to create this type of sealed surface on the flesh side but they come in industrial size quantities. https://leatherchemicals.co.uk/product/unisol-moss-back/ https://campbell-randall.com/product/sup-bt639-g-leather-finish-for-sealing-flesh-side-moss-back-suede-1-gal You can search these forums to find threads about sealing the flesh side with waxes, gum trag, and other potions. Some folks use a heavy glass slicker to finish the flesh side. Or, you can leave it alone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hags Report post Posted February 24, 2022 I use Hermann Oak veg tan and I do not dye the back. I do use the same finish, front and back, lined or not, 50/50 resolene and water, then glass the unlined back to make it look more finished. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 24, 2022 A couple of light coats of Resolene . . . 50/50 with water . . . makes a very nice inside on belts. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
carr52 Report post Posted March 1, 2022 No need to thank me. My service was voluntary. I enjoyed all of it. As a paratrooper my spine would disagree, but still it made me feel proud to put on the uniform. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hairic Report post Posted March 1, 2022 6 minutes ago, carr52 said: No need to thank me. My service was voluntary. I enjoyed all of it. As a paratrooper my spine would disagree, but still it made me feel proud to put on the uniform. Lol, this took me a second to understand who you was commenting on, either way thanks for your service..... God? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handstitched Report post Posted March 1, 2022 For plain belts, no lining. Tooled belts, occasionally some lining, but if concho's, studs or any embellishments are to be used, then I might line them . I have made belts with either Croc or Cane toad. The lining helps to cover up any untidy bits on the back . 3 hours ago, Hairic said: but still it made me feel proud to put on the uniform. Well said I'm still proud to put on my old grotty , rough looking frequently repaired stained leather apron to carry on a century's old craft HS Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gallo Report post Posted March 10, 2022 thanks for all the info Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted March 10, 2022 I don't do anything to the inside of unlined belts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomE Report post Posted March 10, 2022 So I've started making bridles out of single layer straps (9-10 oz) with the flesh side exposed. Feedback from folks who make a living showing horses is that its important for the backside to be smooth and easy to clean. Oiling and conditioning with a wax based balm didn't seem like quite enough, even for HO bridle leather with a pasted moss-back. I read old threads on this forum about various concoctions, mostly stuff used for burnishing edges, to smooth the flesh side. Then I found this water-based, flexible adhesive made by Fenice for creating a moss-back. So far, I'm pretty happy with it but don't know how it wears with use. I dilute it 50:50 with water, apply with a wool dauber, and use a glass slicker to work it into the fibers on the flesh side. After 30 min, I apply a second light coat and wipe it smooth. The pasted surface is smooth and not tacky. It doesn't wrinkle when bent, which is different from the pasted back on HO bridle leather. I think the adhesive penetrates several millimeters into the leather. Probably can control this with how much is applied in the first coat. Seems like an improvement over other methods I've tried. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outfitr Report post Posted March 10, 2022 Dye then tokonole with glass slicker. Unfortunately I pretty much use a liner all the time which costs me about 4 hours of stitching on a belt but there's nothing like the look of nice hand stitching on a project. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TomE Report post Posted March 12, 2022 On 3/10/2022 at 11:25 AM, Outfitr said: Dye then tokonole with glass slicker. Unfortunately I pretty much use a liner all the time which costs me about 4 hours of stitching on a belt but there's nothing like the look of nice hand stitching on a project. Agree that a liner is ideal. The bridle head piece, front, and nose band have padded liners. I am slicking the backs of the cheek pieces and throat latch. Have tried slicking with gum trag but think the penetration of the Fenice adhesive may improve wear. Still experimenting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites