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  1. I know they're pricey but Barry King steep bevelers transformed my floral carving work. I've got both the steepest and next steep 3 widths each and I don't ever touch my old bevelers.
  2. I recently switched from Barge to Aquilim contact cement. So far so good. Nice not to have those fumes. And I also got a glue pot for the Aquilim which is working great.
  3. Excellent work! What is purpose of the larger keeper strap? Is it machine stitched?
  4. Looks good. I assume the paint is the pink and green over dyed red leather? Did you dye the brown first? Looks a little tedious. My eyes are getting old and when I paint I use my optivisors and small brushes....really helps.
  5. Chaps are really nice! So what do you use to draw your pattern onto the leather?
  6. That's a gorgeous scabbard. I recently purchased a Marlin model 95 45-70, I think it would fit perfectly. .....just sayin. The darker color I believe is caused by all the tooling, notice that's where it's at. All the cutting, pounding, beveling definitely changes the way the leather absorbs.
  7. "We" should exit the United nations, totally defund the WHO, strengthen our borders, bring back all medical manufacturing from China, increase tariffs on China, quit importing oil from the middle east, and tell Europe and the rest of the world to kiss our @#ss. There.......I'll sign that!
  8. Oh you're saying don't use background tools just paint those areas then the antique will wash off. Interesting, never thought of that. I'm trying to do both, drop and color the background. Here's a pic if a coaster I did and tried to use purple. It came out OK but the antique did darken it some.
  9. For wet molds I always set the item on a board and lay the oversized wet piece of leather which is cut straight on top and layed over the item at the right position for the top line. The rest of the leather drapes over at least an inch too big. then start molding with appropriate modeling tools while stapling the leather to the board. When its molded enough I remove the item and put in oven till pretty hard. Using dividers mark a fat quarter inch boundary line and cut there. Then the back piece is just flat leather bigger than the front, glued on to the front and then trimmed exact to the front. Then stitched.
  10. I think your right, they just don't work together. The areas I'm referring to are tapped down with textured background tool then color dyed or painted.
  11. On some floral tooling projects I like to use bright colors like red or green or blue instead of the normal black or dark brown in the background areas. Problem arises when I use paste antique and it gets down in those areas and hides the nice colors. I usually do a "wash" after the antique with tan kote but it's almost impossible to get it out of all the background areas and it always at least darkens or totally ruins the colors. I should also mention that I always use a resist like super sheen before the paste antique . I really love the effect of paste antique on floral carvings but I'm thinking it should not be used in conjunction with a colored background. Any ideas?
  12. I hand stitch everything also. Haven't really tried too many thread types. Started using tiger thread a while back and haven't had a reason to look otherwise. I love all the great colors. Mostly use 0.8 for the stuff I make.
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