JLSleather Report post Posted March 17, 2010 (edited) Lots o' folks asking me about the lazy man's clutch wallet. I have a sick little boy today, so I'm gonna split this in chapters of sorts to let 'im sleep, hope that's okay… Call this the preamble… NEEDED: 3 oz cow 'er calf back (same as "Phoenix" clutch kit, I just don't like their "innards"), mask or stencil of your flower, a piece of paper (steel one from your printer, it'll be fine for one use), The Fiebing's dye was... "background" -- dark brown (full strength) and the rose -- red (not dark red) thinned "about" 6:1 with solvent and the stems/leaves -- mixed "about" 3 parts green, 1 part dark brown, 6 parts solvent. NOTES ON DYES: I say "about" because the stuff is alcohol, and some will no doubt evaporate when the jar is open. Color (sediment/pigment) stays, solvent evaporates, so the more it's open the darker it gets. Couple of hours isn't gonna show alot of change. Maybe if you use the mix a dozen times... and, the browns will come out slower than the lighter colors, and WAY slower than the solvent, so when it changes, it'll be DARKER (and maybe just a little THICKER). I sprayed this, so if you're using a brush, might wanna thin it a bit further. Fiebing's dark brown shows a distinctively reddish tint; more obvious the more it's thinned. I really like this type of effect done in chocolate – which is more brown – but I used the dark brown because I was going to paint red stuff, and I hoped it would "flow" a little better with the overall look. Just a "whatif"… like "whatif" I was gonna do the rose yellow, I mighta used the chocolate … Not all leather is tanned the same, even two hides you ordered from the same place at the same time. Word to the wise, no excuse for not testing your color on a piece of scrap FROM THE HIDE your project is cut from -- might match, might not. In this case, it's a FLOWER and and EFFECT, neither of which was a critical shade. For all these reasons and some others, I only mix about an ounce at a time. Some folks have been asking me if this was done "freehand". Yes and no. I "freehanded" inside the rose, but only after masking the rose and painting the background effect. For some reason, folks get the idea that "good" painters "freehand". Here's the truth … you will NOT get that hard edge by "freehand". Period. For more information on colors/hard edges, I'm gonna refer you to Kate, who is clearly better 'n' me, and who I may have a shot at appeasing with a relatively inexpensive consolation prize Kate …? Kate …? More when Junior is awake and Mom is back, so I kin turn on the compressor. One disclaimer … a quick proofread of this has got me thinkin' the fella what wrote this sounds a bit sensitive, and if'n I met 'im, I ain't sure I'd hang out with 'im … Edited March 17, 2010 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whit30 Report post Posted March 17, 2010 Lots o' folks asking me about the lazy man's clutch wallet. I have a sick little boy today, so I'm gonna split this in chapters of sorts to let 'im sleep, hope that's okay… Call this the preamble… NEEDED: 3 oz cow 'er calf back (same as "Phoenix" clutch kit, I just don't like their "innards"), mask or stencil of your flower, a piece of paper (steel one from your printer, it'll be fine for one use), The Fiebing's dye was... "background" -- dark brown (full strength) and the rose -- red (not dark red) thinned "about" 6:1 with solvent and the stems/leaves -- mixed "about" 3 parts green, 1 part dark brown, 6 parts solvent. NOTES ON DYES: I say "about" because the stuff is alcohol, and some will no doubt evaporate when the jar is open. Color (sediment/pigment) stays, solvent evaporates, so the more it's open the darker it gets. Couple of hours isn't gonna show alot of change. Maybe if you use the mix a dozen times... and, the browns will come out slower than the lighter colors, and WAY slower than the solvent, so when it changes, it'll be DARKER (and maybe just a little THICKER). I sprayed this, so if you're using a brush, might wanna thin it a bit further. Fiebing's dark brown shows a distinctively reddish tint; more obvious the more it's thinned. I really like this type of effect done in chocolate – which is more brown – but I used the dark brown because I was going to paint red stuff, and I hoped it would "flow" a little better with the overall look. Just a "whatif"… like "whatif" I was gonna do the rose yellow, I mighta used the chocolate … Not all leather is tanned the same, even two hides you ordered from the same place at the same time. Word to the wise, no excuse for not testing your color on a piece of scrap FROM THE HIDE your project is cut from -- might match, might not. In this case, it's a FLOWER and and EFFECT, neither of which was a critical shade. For all these reasons and some others, I only mix about an ounce at a time. Some folks have been asking me if this was done "freehand". Yes and no. I "freehanded" inside the rose, but only after masking the rose and painting the background effect. For some reason, folks get the idea that "good" painters "freehand". Here's the truth … you will NOT get that hard edge by "freehand". Period. For more information on colors/hard edges, I'm gonna refer you to Kate, who is clearly better 'n' me, and who I may have a shot at appeasing with a relatively inexpensive consolation prize Kate …? Kate …? More when Junior is awake and Mom is back, so I kin turn on the compressor. One disclaimer … a quick proofread of this has got me thinkin' the fella what wrote this sounds a bit sensitive, and if'n I met 'im, I ain't sure I'd hang out with 'im … Thanks for taking the time and sharing your methods! Were all greatful Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted March 18, 2010 Don't follow me TOO far into the ditch, Ron ... you've heard about the blind leading the blind Oh, kin I git ya to use the "reply" button, instead of the "quote" button? THis will be a bit long-winded, and some of the techies will no doubt appreciate it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dirtclod Report post Posted March 18, 2010 Nice job. Looks like coins stacked up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JLSleather Report post Posted March 18, 2010 (edited) Okay, in the interest of speed, I've thrown this thing at a piece of posterboard. 1.) The first photo will show an outline of the clutch.. The paper is heavy Bristol that I'll paint on until it's filthy and then replace. The rose is a plastic or mylar stencil sheet you can get at about any craft store, and Wild Rose's pattern, somewhere on LW. The movable stencil is half a sheet of paper from the printer where I've drawn and cut 1 ½" half circles. Could have been a little smaller, suggesting finer detail, but too small and it looks "busy". In real time, I would have rubber cemented the clutch to the poster board, since it's getting lined anyway I don't care if it's sticky. Let the cement dry BEFORE stickin' it, or you'll be pulling paper with it (so I've heard). Note the pencil mark on the paper stencil. 2.) This is the "negative" of the movable stencil (which from now on will be MS). It's what you get by holding the MS against the board and blast dye straight at it. 3.) Here, I've started the spray. I put the MS roughly square to the project with the pencil mark lining up with one side and just the "tips" on the project. Spray across the bottoms of the circles heavily, and then go back the other way in "arcs", tapering the color towards the top. The amount of color is up to you; just keep it a bit rich in the bottoms. Then move the MS down "some" - again up to you. This is about 3/8", though nothing is measured. Spray again, the same way. 4.) What it starts to look like. Just "eyeball" the spacing (I think it looks better if they're NOT exact). Note I'm gonna start "bleeding" it off to one side. You could run the design straight through, but I think this looks nicer AND less automated. You see the pencil mark no longer in line with the edge. 5.) The DON'T pic. This is what happens if you spray too much color at once. It builds up on the MS and bleeds to your project. Always "sneak up" on the shade you want. 6.) Still bleeding to the right. Note the tips aren't in line, but you can still see it. This is going to cause the "wander" in the design. Also shows the rough step distance I used. 7.) My butt out of the way so you can see how the entire design bleeds to one side. Basketweave stampers, you know what I'm talking about. You want this to be gradual, and if you keep the last run in the sights, it'll be fine. This one bleeds right only because I'm right handed and trying to stay out of the way. Keep in mind where the bottom is, cuz we're gonna try to get back directly under and in line with the top, without any sudden shifts. 8.) About here, I'm gonna start tapering the shade more. Same color in the bottom "tips", less at the top. Doesn't matter at the design, but I'm keeping in mind that the clutch will have its top fold about here, and this will create the illusion of hi-lite. 9.) Here you'll clearly see the hi-lite I'm talking about. Pay no attention to the gray line across the top, that's a bend in the paper. 10.) I've zipped across the rest just to show some other shades. Note that I "bled" back to the LEFT, gradually. I want to end up pretty much with my pencil mark back on the edge. The red lines added show close. Close is good if you're lacing. You want even closer if you're stitching … if you fold the clutch (the way it will be seen MOST of the time) and it doesn't line up, you'll look like you either didn't know what you were doing or didn't care (so I've heard). 11.) Pull the Mylar rose. That "ratty" look won't happen if you let the cement dry BEFORE stickin' it. Full photos here Edited March 18, 2010 by JLSleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
