Jump to content
Texasred82

Upgrading To A Sewing Machine

Recommended Posts

I'm a beginner leather crafter, my business is taking off and I need to buy a sewing machine. What would y'all's advice be with a quality machine in the $1200 range? Tacsew, consew, juki, techsew, etc? I'd defiantly need to put a servo motor on seeing as its my first machine. Ive done alot of research online but would like advice from experienced crafters. Any advice would be appreciated

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This machine is a good all round leather stitcher. It can sew from about 6 ounces, up to 1/2 inch, with thread as heavy as #415. Personally, I would limit the thread to #277 & #277 top and bottom, or maybe #346 on top and #277 on the bottom. It is a few hundred more that the price you suggested, but well worth the extra funds.

This type of machine is a compound, triple feed walking foot machine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Describe your projects and plans for leather goods and we can offer more suggestions.

For instance, while not actually a leather machine as such, the Consew 206RB-5 does sew up to 3/8" of medium temper leather, with #138 bonded nylon thread. They usually sell for right around $1200.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Wiz,

I am new at this so I am not sure if this is a silly question:

When you say that the CB3200 can sew from about 6 ounces, up to 1/2 inch. Am I to assume that thinner leather like 3/4oz will not sew correctly or sew poorly?

I am looking for a machine with a wide range of options (wallets, belts. etc.) and leave my options open to 1/2 inch max. I can only afford 1 cylinder head machine. and was considering the CB3200.

Thanks,

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 3200 is a 441 clone, using system 794 (leather) and 7x3 (cloth/webbing/vinyl) needles. In my experience, these needles don't come in leather point under size 23, which is best suited for use with #138 bonded thread. The knots formed when the tensions are perfectly balanced would be well centered in approximately 7 to 8 ounces of leather (1/8 inch). In anything thinner, the knots would be visible either on top or on the bottom.

If you need to use that type of machine with thinner work, you'll need thinner thread and thinner regular point needles. It will take a lot of dinking around to re-balance the top and bottom tensions for say #69 bonded nylon, sewn with a #18 non-leather point needle. The needle is 2 3/4 inches long, very thin, and subject to easy deflection by the layers. Deflection means bent or broken needles and/or many skipped stitches.

This is before I tell you about the very large, 3/8" wide feed dog, with a really big oblong hole in it (for up to #27 needles), which moves in a very long and wide slot. This machine is best suited for sewing very firm leather or webbing projects, at least 6 to 8 ounces thick, with thread sizes 138 and UP.

In contrast, the 227 type machines have a 1/4 inch wide feed dog that has a fairly small hole, allowing for no more than a #25 needle, if even that.

If you need to sew very thin parts, like 3 to 4 ounces, you're better off with a lesser machine, like the "227R" type. It takes the ultra-common system 135x16 leather point and 135x17 round point needles and can sew up to, but not exceeding 3/8 inch, with up to #138 thread. Some folks have tweaked these machines to sew with #207, but usually, only on top, with #138 in the bobbin. They can sew as easily with #69 thread, using a #16 or #18 needle, with even less pressure needed to hold down the work (the thicker and harder the leather or webbing, the more pressure it takes to hold it down between stitches. If the leather lifts with the ascending needle, it skips those stitches.).

So you see, there are machines that are best for sewing with thinner needles and thread into thinner projects, and others that are best used with heavier needles and thread and thicker jobs only. There are very few machines that reliably sew from a couple ounces up to 1/2 inch, or more, with thread sizes 69 through 346.

If you have to choose just one machine to start with, and most of your work will be under 3/8 inches, go for a 227 type (medium duty, cylinder arm) machine, with a reverse lever. When the time comes to sew holsters and sheathes, weight belts and harnesses, buy a bigger stitcher that goes over 3/4 inches, with the heaviest thread sizes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so Much.

This is such a great site for Info. You helped me determine that the CB3200 is the wrong machine for me, at this time.

I will choose between the CB227R and the TechSew 2700.

I know these questions are asked time and time again but I am open to any comments about either model.

A great thanks to anyone that can help.

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are both good machines for your startup in sewing. Contact both dealers and see what it will cost to get their machine to you, on a pallet, threaded and ready to sew. I almost bought a CB227R, but went for the bigger CB4500 instead. If I had more room in my shop I might go for one of them. As is, I have squeezed in three sewing machines and one skiving machine and don't know where another unit could possibly fit!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What I think the wonderful Wiz is trying to tell you is that there is no one all 'round perfect machine for everything. You need to look at what work is most important to you right now and what can bring the money in to expand your machine family. Most serous letherworkers own at least three or four machines because they all do different things.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello:

Do you need to have a cylinder arm machine for the type of work that you are doing? Flatbed machines tend to be more economical than cylinder arm machines because more are produced.

You can look at the Cowboy Model 0797 machine as well as the Artisan 797 machine.

These are lower priced and could still work well for sewing lightweight to medium weight leather goods.

Consew also has a machine called the 205rb1 which is an economical machine for lightweight to medium weight leathers.

Hope this is of some help to you.

Edited by neelsaddlery

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for everyone's advice.

I had strongly considered a flat bed and almost pulled the trigger. Then, I thought that the cylinder arm --with a flat bed attachment-- might be a more versatile machine, seeing that I am not quite sure where this is all leading. I tend to drive myself "nuts" with these decisions.

My reasoning is that If I spend a bit more money now on the cylinder arm, I was hoping to lessen the chances of needing another machine in the near future. Wiz helped me see that I was overshooting in my range and that a light to medium weight (like the CB227r) is a better fit for me. I do not see myself doing really heavy leather work. That is when I narrowed it down to the TechSew 2700 and the CB227R.

Am I correct that the cylinder arm with the flatbed gives me the most versatility? Do I loose anything by not buying a flat-bed only machine?

I'm almost there hope.

Thanks Again For Your MUCH Appreciated Guidance!

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is easy to make a flat bed for any machine in a couple of hours.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for everyone's advice.

I had strongly considered a flat bed and almost pulled the trigger. Then, I thought that the cylinder arm --with a flat bed attachment-- might be a more versatile machine, seeing that I am not quite sure where this is all leading. I tend to drive myself "nuts" with these decisions.

My reasoning is that If I spend a bit more money now on the cylinder arm, I was hoping to lessen the chances of needing another machine in the near future. Wiz helped me see that I was overshooting in my range and that a light to medium weight (like the CB227r) is a better fit for me. I do not see myself doing really heavy leather work. That is when I narrowed it down to the TechSew 2700 and the CB227R.

Am I correct that the cylinder arm with the flatbed gives me the most versatility? Do I loose anything by not buying a flat-bed only machine?

I'm almost there hope.

Thanks Again For Your MUCH Appreciated Guidance!

Bruce

Yes a cylinder machine with a flatbed will give you the most versatility. Cylinder will be used for sewing bags, curved items, flatbed attachment will be used when you're sewing belts, leather garments and other long/large items.

Ron

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree with Ronnie. The Cylinder arm machines are much more versatile than the flatbeds and with the correct needle and thread you will be able to sew lighter weight fabrics as well. Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank You - Thank You

I took the plunge and ordered a TechSew 2700 Pro.

Because everyone's help, I believe that I made the right choice, finally.

A special thanks to Wiz.

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank You - Thank You

I took the plunge and ordered a TechSew 2700 Pro.

Because everyone's help, I believe that I made the right choice, finally.

A special thanks to Wiz.

Bruce

You're welcome. Did you order a flat bed attachment with it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes the "Pro" model has a few extra attachments:

SmartServo-NP Needle Position Motor

TLG Laser Guide

Swing Down Roller Guide

Flatbed Table Attachment.

Since 2005, my passion was motorcycles. I hung up the two wheels and now I am hooked on leather craft. I usually "jump in" with both feet and don't look back. So, I have lots of learning and practice ahead.

Thanks to you and everyone else, I am off to a good start.

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bruce I would love to hear from you after you get a chance to try the Techsew 2700 Pro as this is the machine that I have been thinking about purchasing also. It seems to have everything that I need for the work I would like to do and they seem to have great service from what I have heard so far. It's a big decision , I have been looking for some time now

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello Babbs,

I might not be the best judge of sewing machines because this is my first one. I had problems getting started but it was All User Error. Techsew has been very responsive to all my questions and problems with both emails and phone calls. Good support is key for me, especially since I am a "rookie".

Now, the sewing machine is sewing great into 2 pieces of 4oz. leather. I expect that I will be very happy with this machine.

I like the lase guide. it helps me keep the leather sewing in a straight line. I need all the help I can get. I am still waiting for the flatbed accessory, It is on back order. So, I cannot comment on that. I am very glad this accessory is included in the Pro version.

The only issue I have left is with the swing arm edge guide. In the down position, it falls about 3/4 in. to 1 in. short of being inline with the needle. So, at the start of sewing I cannot bump up against the guide until I sew through 3/4 in. of leather. I should find out tomorrow what the problem is (probably me again). I will let you know what I find out.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Sorry I couldn't be more help.

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update on Techsew 2700 Pro swing arm edge guide

Apparently, the roller cannot be modified to be in line with the needle. I really wanted a different configuration.

So, I figured out a solution that puts the roller guide exactly in line with the needle.

Basically, I installed the bracket backwards. These are the following steps:

1. Remove the bracket (2 bolts) that holds the guide, Rotate the bracket 180 degrees.

2. Add spacers (4 washers totaling 3/4 inch thick) to each bolt hole.

3. Replace the bolts with 3/4 in. length and bolt on the bracket.

4. Slide back on the swing arm.

What's nice is the set screws to stop the swing arm from sliding are now facing the front. Get a long allen wrench to easily reach the set screws.

Everything else is working as advertised. And, with a great support team behind their products, I am a very satisfied customer.

Thanks,

Bruce

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks so much Bruce , appreciate it. I am not clear on what you mean by the roller not being in line with then needle, I will go watch the video again. I really like the Laser Guide feature and the flatbed attachment that this one includes. The support form the company is the most important thing to me when making a purchase and I hear their customer service is very good which means a lot.. I will watch for your creations , good luck and thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...