CustomDoug Report post Posted October 19, 2011 (edited) I'm on my second SInger long arm patcher, and the first one was set up pretty much right with regards to the take-up lever so I never did mess with it much, if at all (didn't have it long). I didn't want to mess with adjusting it and risk messing something up. So now that I have my latest one (it's a 29k60 big bobbin) I want to understand the whole take-up lever thing. I understand how to make the adjustments, but when and why is a bit of a mystery. This info may have been in the printed manual that I gave away with my other machine when I sold it... I probably could use a manual for this machine too if anyone knows of a PDF somewhere? Any insight is appreciated. TIA. Edited October 19, 2011 by CustomDoug Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 19, 2011 Doug; The adjustable barrel inside the trapeze controls the forced lifting of the take-up lever. In older machines, sans the barrel adjuster, the only lift helper is the flat spring on top of the arm, which pushes the take-up lever up as the arm rises at the end of a stitch. Heavy thread, in the maximum sew-able thickness may cause the take-up lever to not fully rise, causing problems with the position of the knots. The barrel adjusters on the newer patchers allows one to increase the lift by force. This ensures that the knots will be well up into thicker or harder leather. Screwing the nut on the end of the adjuster inward creates more mechanical lift, until the machine's maximum is reached. At this point, you can probably bring the knots to the top of 1/4+ inch of leather, all tensions being normal. Backing off the adjuster will let the knots go down more, at the same tensions. If you are sewing thin leather, or vinyl, or zippers, on the patcher, back off the barrel adjuster. If you sew through thick uppers, or 1/4" of leather, crank it up to assist the positioning of the knots. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CustomDoug Report post Posted October 19, 2011 OK (on a totally new-to-you machine) would you normally make the basic thread adjustments first (top thread and bobbin) to position the lockstitch in between the material, then adjust the take up lever while considering the thickness of material? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted October 19, 2011 OK (on a totally new-to-you machine) would you normally make the basic thread adjustments first (top thread and bobbin) to position the lockstitch in between the material, then adjust the take up lever while considering the thickness of material? Correct, but make those adjustments for the thickness and hardness of leather you will use the most. If you adjust the patcher to sew a perfectly placed knot in 8 ounces of leather, then add a second 8 ounce layer, you could use the take-up helper adjustment to add more lift to the take-up lever. The higher it lifts, during the raising of the trapeze arm, the more pull is exerted on the top thread. Without the helper adjuster, the torsion spring alone will tend to flutter and give up height under a heavy load, or tough bottom leather. Raise the arm with the barrel adjuster to force the lifting of the knots. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CustomDoug Report post Posted October 19, 2011 very good, logical even.. thanks my friend. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
