help me choose leather for my holsters

[Regis]

I have about a dozen (or so) holsters to make for friends and family over the next several months. I will carve/tool each one even though most are not western style (I get to carve or they can buy their own ).

I'm about to order leather and want to know if there is a 'best' weight? Can I use same weight if I line some of them?

Various companies sell "oak" sides or shoulders. Would these likely be like W&C Special or HO C or D? Or better/worse?

I will be molding most of them except for the revolvers. Right now, I'm leaning to the middle grade of W&C but am unsure of what weight to have them split to. Looks like some real bargins (e.g. seigel) so I'm also wondering if I need the extra quantity for "my mistakes" as long as they all tool similarly???

Appreciate any tips.

[Srigs]

For IWB holsters, I use generally 5/6 leather.

For OWB holsters, I use 7/8 on the back side and 6/7 on the front side.

Use the best quality leather you can afford. I have not lined any of my holsters thus far.

[gunfighter48]

I usually use 7/8 oz leather for my holsters, but it depends on the design and the quality or the leather. With a one piece holster I use 7/8 oz with a two piece I use 7 - 10 oz for the back and 6 - 8 oz for the front half. My holsters are IWB for concealed carry. Using the best grades of leather you can usually use thinner weights and they will hold their shape just fine. Buy the best grade you can afford and experiment with your designs.

Edited December 1, 2007 by gunfighter48

[Regis]

Thanks guys. I wish I would have waited a few more days for these answers and I ordered some 6/7 (ok) and mostly 8/9. Next time 5-8.

[Mike Craw]

Hey Regis,

I wouldn't beat myself up over ordering 8/9. Since they are going to be carved, tooled, and molded, 8/9 is a good weight for a duty holster for everyday wear. One thought, based on hard won experience, is that when you get ready to mold the holster to the weapon, only dampen the inside of the front that's tooled, and don't lean too hard on the front or your carving will get mushy. Usually, a good molding on the rear around the triggger guard will be enough to hold the weapon fairly well, even if the thumb break is unfastened. Too much molding around the ejection port, especially on a 1911 A1, will cause drag when it's drawn.

Have fun with your projects. A dozen or so should keep you busy.

Mike