mk1madnesd

Also lengthen the arm on the motor at least 8 inches that gives you much more control of the motor , you're gonna struggle with that motor though you want s 1400 rpm or a servo motor really ! Good luck

Does anyone know where I can get one of those guides in the uk or somewhere that'll export one ?? Regards craig

Looks like a Pfaff 1245 to me. 0bviously a copy , I did fancy one of those myself for a while but the price of replacement parts put me off , so settled for the seiko because a new hook assy is around £100 cheaper , feet etc are also cheaper for the singer based machines , although the pfaff looks like the same feet they're different . There's a polish guy on YouTube make stunning handbags on what looks like another version of the machine you've bought and it looks to perform very well . Best of luck with your machine and happy sewing 😃

I can only concur with the advice you've been given , I have an old singer 211 g 155 I've had over 20 years and it was well used when I got it , that machine still sews like the day it was new , I know an engineer that reckons this cheap Chinese stuff is lasting a couple of years under hard use then you've to throw them away because everything is worn out of any kind of acceptable tolerance. If you can get yourself and old singer 211g with walking foot and needle feed with a rising feed dog you'll never need another machine and it'll still be running when you're dead and burried!! I have the later seiko version of it that I use for everyday use and they're awesome, stay away from a pfaff 145 or 545, the stitches are too small and they don't like heavy thread , plus the lift up lever for reverse rather than a push down type is a ball ache, I know I have a 145 h3 I never use for that reason !!! I also have a Chinese built juki du 1181 copy which sews beautiful but they don't perform well round tight corners while seeing welting etc because the rear foot walks not the front and they try walking off the work piece if you're not careful, however for bags and wallets etc I bet they'd be great ! Regards Craig

In my experience it's the cheap nasty modern clutch motors that are hard to get to grips with they're on or off !! Extending the lever arm underneath makes them much more controllable though , I've done it loads of times and it transforms the machines , extend at least 8 inches though. Regards Craig

You can make a clutch motor much more controllable by extending it's lever arm underneath much longer, I extend them by about 8 inches and move the link rod bracket on the foot pedal over to the left so the link rod isn't at a funny angle , this halves the amount of clutch movement for the same amount of pedal depression , try it it'll give you machine the controllability of a servo motor for about 30 mins work and just a few pounds if you don't already have the materials , regards Craig

For leather seat covers I'd have left it at 6/inch, and 5 looks better on the decorative French seams etc , I use up to 3/inch on my seats in some cases on the decorative stitching over thick foam etc because a stitch starting out at 5/16 inch can end up nearer a 1/4 when sewn over 3/4 scrim foam on a non walking foot machine , you would be better off with a joys or yamata or typical pf5318 , all the same machine under different names , these are in my opinion the best value for money walking foot machine available on which you can produce really nice quality work , they never drag the thread in and jam , have large capacity bobbins and you can buy a good second hand one for £300 here in the uk . I keep one as a back up machine to my seiko lsw8bl . Regards Craig