ThisIsMyFirstRodeo

For those curious, the Pro Resist seems to have sealed. KGG — I oiled a piece last night. This morning, the color of the leather is just slightly little darker, but even across the piece. Seems to be a perfect blank canvas. Usually I tool before I dye, but today I plan to dye and tool tomorrow, along with a piece I didn’t oil, and we’ll see how much dye bleeds as I case it… AZR

I’m assuming that you’re also familiar with the Fiebings Pro black. What’s your preference? AZR

I should pick some Resolene up on my next Tandy run. I actually just made a bag using USMC black for the straps and billets, but I gave them a healthy coat of ProResist. Hopefully it’ll do the trick… — AZR

Oh and Darren, nice looking pieces. I’ve been looking at that template as well. — AZR

Oh I’m totally giving this a shot!

Thank you. Fiebings is definitely my go-to as well. And the Angelus is awesome, but it also feels like busting out the Pappy Van Winkle 9yr on a weeknight to me, if you know what I mean. I’ll give your method a try and see how it works for me. — AZR

Hey all, Has anyone experienced any issues with NFO and topcoats, whether NFO is applied before or after? Products used: Tandy’s econo veg tan shoulder, dyed with EcoFlo deep violet leather dye, Dr. Jackson’s pure NFO, EcoFlo super sheen) Backstory: After becoming accustomed to the juicy vibrancy of Angelus’s purple leather dye, I’m unimpressed with the EcoFlo, in depth of color as well as polished sheen (I did 3 coats total). Finally got my hands on some NFO (oil not compound), and figured I’d give it a try to see if it helped either color or sheen. Then it caught water spray while I was working another piece, and bled onto my hands and the paper towel I was using to dry it. And remembered that it’s water-based and I hadn’t sealed it yet so I grabbed the super sheen. No matter how many coats ive tried, it simply runs off. Deciding that the issue might be the NFO, I used some saddle soap to try to remove it, let it sit a couple minutes, and rinsed off before trying again. Super sheen still just rolled off. And that brings us up to now. I really don’t want to deal with unhappy wife or customers dealing with stained skin and clothes, so I’m looking for a solution. Thoughts? TIA, AZR

Is it illegal to carry a hatchet or ax? Curious minds want to know… But Chuck, both pieces look really nice! —AZR

Chuck, returning to your question, I use warm water and dawn dish soap beforehand. I figure if it’ll get crude oil off of a duck, then it’ll get whatever oils that come to the surface without damaging the hide, then rinsed as many times with warm water as needed, and once more for good measure. Because it’s usually fully-saturated by then, I let it air dry for several hours (AZ, it’s a dry heat, etc.) And I do have logic regarding dawn, albeit it may be flawed logic… It pulls the oils out, leaving it thirsty, which then will pull the oils from the dye deeper into the hide (almost exclusively use Fiebing’s Pro). But again, my logic could very well be flawed. With finished leather, then I use saddle soap. Only exception I can think of is my couch. Then I use dawn if I absolutely have to, followed by saddle soap. So far, it’s worked well for me, but if you have a different process, then I’m all ears. — AZR

And there is the answer to my question! Thank you KGG, I doubt I would have found the answer on my own. — AZR

Thank you, Bruce. I appreciate your input regarding the milky color. Most recently, it happened to be 2-3oz and 5-6oz econo veg tan from Tandy, probably Argentinian in origin, if I had to guess. (Before the peanut gallery chimes in dishing on their quality, it’s what I have available, and more importantly, it’s what I can afford…) As far as casing goes, I don’t believe there’s any problem with my process involved, only my execution. And I’m aware of it. Skill comes with practice, and im still learning the craft. These pieces I didn’t bother to clean first, and I only used a spray bottle of tap water, so it couldn’t have come from me. I had considered the possibility of it being something from the tanning process, but I also freely admit that I know nothing of the tanning process. I don’t know if I’m “glad” per se, but at least I know I’m not crazy, and someone else has also experienced this. — AZR

So the pebbling down the entire length is all stamped?

Hey all, Well the title kinda says it all: here and there while I’m actively stamping, a thin milky liquid will rise to the surface. Yes, water rising probably means that I’m casing too much, but that’s not the question. I had thought that perhaps I hadn’t rinsed the soap off thoroughly from cleaning the leather before working it, but then I noticed it even when I hadn’t cleaned it first. Wish I had a pic to show, but it’s not something I think about when it happens, and I have yet to find rhyme or rhythm to encourage it. Thanks for any insight. —AZR

Bruce — Wow, thank you. Your experience, especially being much closer (3hrs or so) to me helps a lot. Most definitely individual wrapped candy, and SF definitely. But more importantly, the ideas for what we called an “elevator pitch” in school (I barely passed speech class…), and communication with the promoters/managers. The general ideas I’m gathering from everyone are how to successfully invite people into my stall, and create a connection, however brief. Definitely stepping out of my comfort zone, but necessary for the potential of success. Returning to ideas for setup, what are people’s thoughts regarding a couple cable spools stacked to create a rounder, with my concept being to bring people in to see what else is out of sight? I’m wavering though, as I don’t want something too big to see around or take up half of my tent. I haven’t bothered yet to flesh out how to keep the design clean. But, if it winds up looking a little too redneck, it won’t be leaving my garage. At face value, I like the concept of a rounder, but what are other’s thoughts? — AZR

I do have, if nothing else, some store-type plastic bags, though I may be able to finagle some paper bags. But thank you for mentioning them, they weren’t even on my radar. As far as refreshments of some sort, we are working with the local health department to determine if we even need a permit for fresh-brewed tea (tea blends are one of my wife’s products 😉). They’re severely understaffed though, and haven’t returned any of our emails or calls yet. If I can’t get a response I will go ahead and ask forgiveness if I have to, since I’ve been trying for permission and failing. My wife may also attempt some baked goods, which fall under the cottage foods act, don’t need any permit. The dry tea blends are also “cottage”, but for some reason, adding hot water is problematic… 🤦🏻 The book idea I had started kicking around, especially since I want to push my bookmarks out, though I am hesitant about another expense that may not sell. We’ll see though, I have a full library that I could probably part with. What do you do with your flawed (not ruined) products that people may but probably not notice, such as a scratch on a panel or overstamping? (One of my more popular stamps/patterns is notoriously difficult to maintain a line or correct once it wanders…)