ThisIsMyFirstRodeo

That looks great! It would be time for tokonole or gum trag, or you could go with Nigel’s method, which he swears is not licking it off-camera before slicking. (It does work, though… 😉) -AZR

Thank you for tossing the idea out there. TBH, I don’t actually have a computer, anything digital that I do is through my iPhone. (I don’t dare touch my wife’s or daughter’s machines…) But, adding a $200 pc to a $300 engraver is still less than many clickers, especially if adding in the cost of the dies. Definitely not a prohibitive expense in the grand scheme of leatherwork. Thank you again, AZR

I do believe that you have given me the courage to attempt such shenanigans. And thanks for the bookmark suggestion, definitely works for my primary market here in town!

As far as your steel rule and hoop go, if I’m translating Aussie to American correctly, that rule is what I would call flat bar stock, and hoop would be steel strap at our “big box hardware stores” (aka Home Depot). If so, the hoop would probably be way too soft to hold form under a press. If you happen to have a forge, I suppose it *may* be possible to heat it and use some Cherry Red to case harden it once you shape it. (As a gun guy, I assume you might be familiar with it, but it’s basically gun bluing but for the brownish color instead of blue-black). If you don’t have one, you might be able to slip one under the missus’s nose if you build it yourself (I built my coal forge for about $50, well less than the cost of my anvil, and my 1st propane forge is made from an old propane cylinder and the guts of an old gas grill. But you didn’t hear that from me… 😉). And metalwork and leather have always gone together hand in hand. Wow I went way off topic really fast. I’m assuming that you have checked with metal supply houses (the commercial variety that supply pipes/rebar/i-beams/etc), welding supply shops, blacksmiths, co-op forges, farriers, farm/tack supply shops, and web forums. (Just the sources I can think of to at least get a lead to work from.) But I have been told that common things here are not-so-common there. Oh! BBQ/smoker fabricators! Might even be able to get some of there scrap (though there’s no such thing as scrap steel. Just ask a blacksmith 😁. No I’m not a blacksmith, just a bumblesmith…) Ooh squirrel! My daughter got me a little Vevor 1-burner forge, and it’s actually my primary forge now. I think she found it while it was on sale for ~$100. 10/10 recommend. Might even get hotter than my 2-burner. Thank you, I have a difficult time finding what I’m looking for through the 100’s/1000’s of search results!

How’s that Vevor press working out for you?

Thank you for your input, guys. I think I’ll try the stud sandwich first (lumber, guys, lumber…) and start with a mallet and move up. Like I learned from my time framing, When in doubt, use a bigger hammer… 😁 Luckily, it’s really only for small pieces, keychains/coasters/bracelets and the like, but anything that will help my efficiency. AZR

Hey all, So I have a bit of a conundrum… Is there a way to use clicker dies without dropping the money for a press? Possibly a deadblow mallet? I know the Vevor press is quite affordable, but it’s still $200 that I don’t have. My “shop” is just myself, my wife and daughter (so really just myself lol), so any time I save by skipping templates I can put into my forge. Or doing dishes. Depends if the wife is home or not… Thanks for any thoughts/advice/commiseration, AZR

Hey all, I’m looking for the Craftool 8540 wildcat stamp, or other similar wildcat stamp. Yes, a different stamp is listed with Tandy now, but a different post mentioned that there is some confusion on the product. Apparently the 8540-00 motorcycle wings stamp is branded as Craftool, but is actually made by a different company, whereas the 8540 model actually made by Craftool is the wildcat stamp I’m looking for. So, if you have a wildcat stamp that you’re willing to part with, whether the 8540 or something else similar, then I will make it worth your while to drop it in the mailbox. Shoot me a message, and we can work out the details… TIA, AZR

I have started taking my edger to my buffing wheel, which did have an immediate (positive) effect, but as I can only get the back/bottom side, how do I sharpen the cutting blade itself?

Thank you, it’s been puzzling me. I also noticed about the flesh being a little easier to work, so I guess I’m on track, but thank you for clarifying. AZR ps Your Stan Lee is amazing!

Hey all! So I’ve read/watched a few sources saying to bevel the flesh side before the grain, but none have said WHY… Any help from the peanut gallery? thx, AZR

I repeated the experiment, but this time I sprayed the strips with water to see if that would even out the unevenness, and skipped straight to 5min. This time, it was worse. Much worse. And the depth of color was nowhere near that of the first experiment. Conclusion: Don’t spray your leather with water first… Cheers, AZR

Experiment: Testing 4 different ferrous and non-ferrous acetates to react with 6-7lb econo veg tan leather, using ~1min and ~5min dip times. Methodology: 1) Prepared 1 mason jar each of classic vinegaroon, classic vinegaroon, copper scrubbie substitute, SS scrubbie substitute. Jars have been sitting outside in mostly direct S.AZ summer sun, probably about 100F. No control for leather or with straight white vinegar will be used. 2) Dip a strip of undyed 6-7lb econo veg tan completely for ~1min. 3) Pull halfway out and continue dip for another 4min, for a combined time of ~5min. 4) Hang each on the “shaded” side of the jar to air dry. 5) Analyze and evaluate results at 1hr. 6) Test strips will not be stabilized with baking soda solution. Hypothesis: 1) Initial coloring will be relatively dark, and fade with time. 2) Longer dip time equates to darker color. 3) Because leather is porous, the color of the 1min dip may be skewed by wicking action. 4) Stabilization with baking soda solution (untested) may alter results. Prognosis: Based on historical and commonly available observations, results will be as follows: Jar 1 (classic vinegaroon 5wk aged) will be darkest, followed by Jar 2 (classic vinegaroon 3wk aged), then Jar 3 (copper scrubbie 6wk aged), and finally Jar 4 (SS scrubbie 6wk aged). Each of the testing strips will have noticeable but slight variations of color between 1min and 5min, and the strips themselves will have distinct depths of color. Results: At 1hr: A) The longer dip time yielded darker colors. At 1min, surprisingly, Strip 2 appears slightly darker than Strip 3, and results (darkest to lightest) as follows: 1,2,3,4. C) At 5min, results as predicted with results (darkest to lightest) as follows: 1,3,2,4. Observations: At 2hr, the colorations are evening out on Strips 1 and 3 (classic 5wk and 3wk). Surprisingly, Strip 2 followed by 4 (copper and SS) were the most evenly colored at each time. Also unexpected Strip 2 (copper) was very close to Strip 3 (classic 3wk), just slightly behind Strip 1. Although Strip 1 was the darkest at both times, the evenness of Strip 2 would give the copper scrubbie my preference in general. Strip 4 (SS), though, may warrant further experimentation into blue tones, and lend a really cool effect with a blue dye. Also would like to compare to dipping in straight white vinegar. Having issues posting pictures of the results. Almost like it’s my first rodeo or something 😉… If I’m missing something, or have made an error along the way, please correct me. Cheers, AZR

(Original post edited) I was going to give yet another glowing review to his saddle stitch tutorial, but it simply isn’t necessary.