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ThisIsMyFirstRodeo

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Tucson, AZ
  • Interests
    Bbq, comp bbq, cooking bbq, eating bbq,
    Oh, and a wide variety of crafting in a sad, sad attempt to sell enough to sustain any of them…

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Cutting perfectly good shoulders into scrap
  • Interested in learning about
    Not cutting perfectly good shoulders into scrap
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    I think through bladesmithforums

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  1. Wow that is a beautiful and well-considered holster! Love the hockey game idea! Anyone know if a kendo stick would work?
  2. You have given me the idea of caning it with some rebar or a mesquite branch, and if I had access to the leather to try it, I totally would just in the name of research. My biggest hesitance at the moment is that I don’t have any scrap big enough to test. I’d go for an econo belly from Tandy, but they’ve been out for about 3wks now
  3. I guess I should mention that, outside of the rivets, there is no decoration or ornamentation for the breastplate, just the patina and wear.
  4. So it’s for cosplay, not LARP. (The difference I’m not sure. Maybe watching, not playing?) But, who wants to show up in brand new armor without a single knick on it? Which begs the question: how do I mimic battle damage/wear without swinging an actual weapon at it? I had been using my test swatch for the dye to try different methods of abuse, but the marks left even the spine of my heaviest cleaver just look like I got into a fight with a box cutter. All help appreciated
  5. Dusting off a long-dead thread, but yeah, those look incredibly well done! I salute you, sir!
  6. Do these offer any wrist support, or are they just forearm protection?
  7. Thank you for that, it is probably the answer I was looking for.
  8. It seems likely that that’s what he was referring to, and that I likely misheard
  9. Didn’t want to risk any odors impregnating the leather, so I just left it to air dry on the counter overnight. Molded the sheath as tightly as I could to give it some structure, but not necessarily happy with the results. Perhaps it is the best I could reasonably hope for with the weight. Think I might just have to fabricate another layer for better rigidity. I know better than to change direction on the fly, but it is what it is… Suppose I should mention that this is a different project than the 12oz sheath I was originally talking about. THAT project I haven’t touched since I cut the stitches…
  10. It was from one of the Tandy guys, so I would think it was at least a real technique. I believe it was in regards to dyeing or forming, rather than tooling, but I also have the short term memory of a springer spaniel chasing squirrels under a disco ball. From my own logic, I don’t think it would have great tooling value unless you were pounding the crap out of it.
  11. Thank you both for the input
  12. No such thing as over-engineering! Also, if you think it would be an issue, use some threadlock.
  13. How do the 2 casing techniques stack up to each other? When would oil casing be preferable to water?
  14. Right now, I only have high 60s outside. As far as my initial thoughts, I would maybe start at 140F. From a hypothetical standpoint, I think I could mitigate any grease/oils by wrapping in parchment paper, but I don’t know if any smells/odors would impregnate the leather. Perhaps dusting with baking soda would prevent this…
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