LMullins

That's a great deal! I'm in MA. I saw a Cobra Class 4 nearby within 30 minutes of the listing being posted, responded immediately and the seller left me on read and ghosted me. Next day, he messages me and says "sorry I sold it within 5 minutes of the post being up." 🤦‍♂️ Unlucky I guess 🤣

Hey Folks, To those that use Angelus Leather Paints (whether as part of carving, or painting an entire panel) What sort of finish have you experienced good results with? To my understanding, most people use Resolene or Acrylic finishers, but I've stuck by wax finishes. What has worked for you? Tan-Kote, Resolene, etc?

Hey Folks, I'm looking to upgrade to an industrial stitcher. I've been hand-sewing the majority of my projects and think it's about time to upgrade. I was looking at purchasing a brand new Cobra Class 26 w/ EPS but as soon as I went to purchase, the price increased by $275... plus the shipping to my area is quite high. in the meantime I did some research and was alerted to a Juki LS-341 for sale under $1000 with a new motor and supposedly in operational order. Now I'm not familiar with the Juki machines, so I've been reading up a bit but there's a few questions I'd like answered in a more straightforward way. Here's what I'm interested to know: 1. What are the main differences between the two? 2. What are the capabilities of the Juki compared to the Cobra? From what I see, the Cobra has a larger bobbin spool and can use a larger thread. 3. What should I be looking out for? 4. What thickness will it comfortably reach? Will the Juki handle 2 layers of 8oz? 5. Is this a good option for long runs of stitching? Such as gun belts, reins, etc.? 6. How do the machines compare to one another in terms of quality and performance? Thanks for answering. Ultimately, I'm looking for a reliable, consistent machine for belt runs that won't put up a fuss. Let me know what you folks have to share

SOLD

Yes, shipping, buyer pays. I'll go through any service in the U.S. Rest of details can be sorted in private message.

I was on a mission to obtain a Landis Model 30 when I came across this Splitter. I will come right out and say that I don't know a whole lot about this brand, and there's not a whole lot I can find about it. The skiver is currently inoperable, and the splitter gears are chewed up pretty good. I opened it up and it seems like an easy fix, just replace the two chewed up gears. I was able to crank it and get it to split 9-10oz shown in this photo very cleanly. I imagine it would be VERY easy to motorize, the person I got it from had one running on a belt with the wheel crank it came with. Don't know where to put the price, so I'll call it $700 since I'm mainly looking for offers so feel free to shoot. I'm not firm. Located in Massachusetts. Will accept trades locally.

If you plan on using Chicago screws, I advise you use a dab of Fiebing's leathercraft cement. I've had Chicago's back out on me at unfortunate timing, but the dab of glue helps provide enough resistance to keep it inside, but not too much that you can't get them out. if you do unscrew with the glue, it will resist and then *click* and unthread.

You remembered I have a boss, I applaud your memory! So, reason why is because I currently have the Boss set up for 2-3oz of 8 oz since I've been cranking out a lot of sheathes, and I did not want to dial it out of my current adjustment. I've been really liking the Tippmann and the folks on here really helped me when I started I'm looking to purchase a Cobra Class 26 specifically for belts.

Thanks! I forgot to include it in the post, but the keeper is attached with Chicago screws and has adjustable positions.

About two months ago I had cut my thumb because I was in a rush while cutting out a belt. I had a stressful workday, and just needed to get a commission done. I was unable to use my thumb, and as a result; I was unable to do any leatherwork. In the meantime, I was studying ways to improve my work. I started working on carving, and adding more customizable options to my work. Among those customizations was one from a customer, and that was lettering. Now, I've tooled a lot of belts before; but I never got a request for lettering until now. So naturally I picked up a set, and made a test piece. It was a little tricky, but I got the spacing just right after measuring probably 4 times over just to make sure it ended up center-back. I stamped out a little decorative basketweave to warm up my dexterity, and I also managed to hand-stitch this belt. I punched the holes using a Tippman Boss and then did a saddle-stitch by hand. I used a power burnisher on the edges and then finished up by hand. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result. This was meant as a test piece but turned into a functional, quality belt. Going forward, I would have used a different top coat as this one had discolored the lettering and turned the white into a cream-like color. Just remember that leatherwork is a marathon— not a race. Rushing and becoming careless is a recipe for injury. Don't underestimate your tools, they are made for cutting leather, and humans are just thin wet leather. Let me know what you think, thanks for reading!

Yep! Leather has just enough flexibility to friction fit, but not be a pain to remove.

Hey folks, I've been getting lots of requests for custom fitted holsters and I've been turning them away because I haven't made one for myself and not sure how I feel about the potential problems that could be brought up. What suggestions/resources do you folks have? How do you make sure the leather doesn't lose body and become dangerous over time? Do holsters require a lining? thanks

Thank you for your words. so I've experimented with multiple bags and it took me a while to figure out the method. You cannot use textured bags, as you have mentioned, due to the fact that the texture will imprint onto the leather in a very ugly fashion. Instead, purchase a bag without texture OR flip the bag inside out this project was made with the former method and you can't really tell. Yes, there are a bit of wrinkles at the bottom, but overall it's a very nice look. I try to massage the creases out with a folder to (some) success.