LMullins

Thanks for the response! I may get both thread sizes just to see which I prefer. What needle size would you recommend for each thread size? Any suggestions?

Hey Folks, Managed to pick up a Cobra Class 29-18 for just $920 today. Pretty excited, I've been looking for a Singer 29k for months and just had to snatch this up. Anyway, I know there are folks on here that swear by their patchers and I'm looking for you folks to drop some of that knowledge. I have a Cobra Class 4, so this will not be pushed very far. Likely just wallets and boots/shoe repair. I'll likely have to file down the teeth since these impressions are SHARP, but aside from that.. I currently don't have thin enough thread for this machine (#69-#138) but I did thread it up with 207 and it faired pretty well considering it's outside the suggested limit. I'll be picking up some thread tomorrow, what would you folks recommend? As far as patchers go, should the bobbin thread be smaller than the top? #138 top and #92 bobbin?

Okay, I suppose I'll put $850 with room for negotiation

I just recently picked up a Cobra Class 4, as a result I no longer have a need for my Tippmann Boss. I picked up this machine and used it as a primary machine for a while, it was reliable and it's been kept in good working order. Well-oiled and parts were replaced as necessary. Comes with: -Flatbed Attachment -Flatbed Bracket -Flatbed Material Guide -2 Roller Guides -Drill Bobbin Winder -2 Bobbins -Original Manual -Allen Wrench Set -Center Presser Foot -Left Presser Foot -Fleece Center Foot I'll also throw in needles and thread for free so you can play with it immediately upon your return. I don't have a set price in mind, so feel free to shoot some offers. Local pickup preferred

That's a great deal! I'm in MA. I saw a Cobra Class 4 nearby within 30 minutes of the listing being posted, responded immediately and the seller left me on read and ghosted me. Next day, he messages me and says "sorry I sold it within 5 minutes of the post being up." 🤦‍♂️ Unlucky I guess 🤣

Hey Folks, To those that use Angelus Leather Paints (whether as part of carving, or painting an entire panel) What sort of finish have you experienced good results with? To my understanding, most people use Resolene or Acrylic finishers, but I've stuck by wax finishes. What has worked for you? Tan-Kote, Resolene, etc?

Hey Folks, I'm looking to upgrade to an industrial stitcher. I've been hand-sewing the majority of my projects and think it's about time to upgrade. I was looking at purchasing a brand new Cobra Class 26 w/ EPS but as soon as I went to purchase, the price increased by $275... plus the shipping to my area is quite high. in the meantime I did some research and was alerted to a Juki LS-341 for sale under $1000 with a new motor and supposedly in operational order. Now I'm not familiar with the Juki machines, so I've been reading up a bit but there's a few questions I'd like answered in a more straightforward way. Here's what I'm interested to know: 1. What are the main differences between the two? 2. What are the capabilities of the Juki compared to the Cobra? From what I see, the Cobra has a larger bobbin spool and can use a larger thread. 3. What should I be looking out for? 4. What thickness will it comfortably reach? Will the Juki handle 2 layers of 8oz? 5. Is this a good option for long runs of stitching? Such as gun belts, reins, etc.? 6. How do the machines compare to one another in terms of quality and performance? Thanks for answering. Ultimately, I'm looking for a reliable, consistent machine for belt runs that won't put up a fuss. Let me know what you folks have to share

SOLD

Yes, shipping, buyer pays. I'll go through any service in the U.S. Rest of details can be sorted in private message.

I was on a mission to obtain a Landis Model 30 when I came across this Splitter. I will come right out and say that I don't know a whole lot about this brand, and there's not a whole lot I can find about it. The skiver is currently inoperable, and the splitter gears are chewed up pretty good. I opened it up and it seems like an easy fix, just replace the two chewed up gears. I was able to crank it and get it to split 9-10oz shown in this photo very cleanly. I imagine it would be VERY easy to motorize, the person I got it from had one running on a belt with the wheel crank it came with. Don't know where to put the price, so I'll call it $700 since I'm mainly looking for offers so feel free to shoot. I'm not firm. Located in Massachusetts. Will accept trades locally.

If you plan on using Chicago screws, I advise you use a dab of Fiebing's leathercraft cement. I've had Chicago's back out on me at unfortunate timing, but the dab of glue helps provide enough resistance to keep it inside, but not too much that you can't get them out. if you do unscrew with the glue, it will resist and then *click* and unthread.

You remembered I have a boss, I applaud your memory! So, reason why is because I currently have the Boss set up for 2-3oz of 8 oz since I've been cranking out a lot of sheathes, and I did not want to dial it out of my current adjustment. I've been really liking the Tippmann and the folks on here really helped me when I started I'm looking to purchase a Cobra Class 26 specifically for belts.

Thanks! I forgot to include it in the post, but the keeper is attached with Chicago screws and has adjustable positions.

About two months ago I had cut my thumb because I was in a rush while cutting out a belt. I had a stressful workday, and just needed to get a commission done. I was unable to use my thumb, and as a result; I was unable to do any leatherwork. In the meantime, I was studying ways to improve my work. I started working on carving, and adding more customizable options to my work. Among those customizations was one from a customer, and that was lettering. Now, I've tooled a lot of belts before; but I never got a request for lettering until now. So naturally I picked up a set, and made a test piece. It was a little tricky, but I got the spacing just right after measuring probably 4 times over just to make sure it ended up center-back. I stamped out a little decorative basketweave to warm up my dexterity, and I also managed to hand-stitch this belt. I punched the holes using a Tippman Boss and then did a saddle-stitch by hand. I used a power burnisher on the edges and then finished up by hand. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result. This was meant as a test piece but turned into a functional, quality belt. Going forward, I would have used a different top coat as this one had discolored the lettering and turned the white into a cream-like color. Just remember that leatherwork is a marathon— not a race. Rushing and becoming careless is a recipe for injury. Don't underestimate your tools, they are made for cutting leather, and humans are just thin wet leather. Let me know what you think, thanks for reading!

Yep! Leather has just enough flexibility to friction fit, but not be a pain to remove.

Hey folks, I've been getting lots of requests for custom fitted holsters and I've been turning them away because I haven't made one for myself and not sure how I feel about the potential problems that could be brought up. What suggestions/resources do you folks have? How do you make sure the leather doesn't lose body and become dangerous over time? Do holsters require a lining? thanks

Thank you for your words. so I've experimented with multiple bags and it took me a while to figure out the method. You cannot use textured bags, as you have mentioned, due to the fact that the texture will imprint onto the leather in a very ugly fashion. Instead, purchase a bag without texture OR flip the bag inside out this project was made with the former method and you can't really tell. Yes, there are a bit of wrinkles at the bottom, but overall it's a very nice look. I try to massage the creases out with a folder to (some) success.

Good morning folks, My woman got me a vacuum sealer and I've been putting it to work lately. These two were a combination of vacuum sealed and worked by hand at the end. Two layers of 8-9oz veg-tan hand stitched with 0.8 thread and Solid Brass snaps. I'm working on getting a consistent and uniform appearance, and I think I'm improving each time I try Let me know your thoughts! And what would YOU price these at?

Hey Folks, I've been making quite a bit of wet-formed holsters recently and a customer had requested a glossier finish than my typical Tan-Kote... I've never done a shinier project, but I do have the Fiebing's Leather Balm. I've had great results at getting a good luster and color depth with the Leather Balm but there's one thing I'm wondering; Is it a conditioner, wax, or topcoat? I typically use Neatsfoot oil followed by Tan-Kote, can I do the same with the Leather Balm? it gives off a good shine and water repellence, but is this a topcoat on the same terms as Resolene and Tan-Kote? thanks for your time :)

Thank you for the insight, I always know when I see a notification from "kgg", it's gonna be worth reading. it is interesting though because my initial thoughts would be that stitching allows for greater weather/dirt/grime intrusion and could weaken over time in hard wear conditions like construction and such.

I'm talking to another person about how a decorative stitch line would be more detrimental to leather durability on a single layer 13oz belt than just to have a single strip of leather without any stitching. My reasoning is that adding an unnecessary stitchline is just adding a perforation to the leather and allowing greater water instrustion to the leather along with dirt and grit, whereas an unbroken strip wouldn't allow for this. Is there any resources on this to verify the validity of this claim? I've seen this during repair work many times, enough to see that adding unnecessary holes doesn't increase the strength. But I have never seen that a single of layer benefits from breaking the grain of the leather without reason. Would love to hear it discussed

Haven't posted any of my work on the site yet, so I felt this was a fine opportunity. Made this for a customer with a 46 inch waist. That's a LOT of tooling and hand-stitching! But well worth it. Two layers of 8-9oz veg-tan, along with brass hardware and 1mm braided thread at 5mm spacing. I'm pretty surprised at just how dark it came out, but i'm very happy with the result. This was my first 2 inch belt, so let me know how it looks

I just opened up half of it, and it appears to me that some of the gears are a little chewed up (although very accessible.) I gave it a decent cleaning and the previous grease was like tar.. but now it's oiled and running quite smooth. I'll be opening up the other half soon and doing the same thing, along with photos of the condition. As far as what I'll do with it, I'm not sure! I'm going to be driving 7 hours round trip today for a Landis 30 Splitter, so I will probably pass this machine on. No idea where to price, but let me know if you'd still be interested! It does work, and it splits quite nice. Just could use some more TLC