LMullins

If you plan on using Chicago screws, I advise you use a dab of Fiebing's leathercraft cement. I've had Chicago's back out on me at unfortunate timing, but the dab of glue helps provide enough resistance to keep it inside, but not too much that you can't get them out. if you do unscrew with the glue, it will resist and then *click* and unthread.

You remembered I have a boss, I applaud your memory! So, reason why is because I currently have the Boss set up for 2-3oz of 8 oz since I've been cranking out a lot of sheathes, and I did not want to dial it out of my current adjustment. I've been really liking the Tippmann and the folks on here really helped me when I started I'm looking to purchase a Cobra Class 26 specifically for belts.

Thanks! I forgot to include it in the post, but the keeper is attached with Chicago screws and has adjustable positions.

About two months ago I had cut my thumb because I was in a rush while cutting out a belt. I had a stressful workday, and just needed to get a commission done. I was unable to use my thumb, and as a result; I was unable to do any leatherwork. In the meantime, I was studying ways to improve my work. I started working on carving, and adding more customizable options to my work. Among those customizations was one from a customer, and that was lettering. Now, I've tooled a lot of belts before; but I never got a request for lettering until now. So naturally I picked up a set, and made a test piece. It was a little tricky, but I got the spacing just right after measuring probably 4 times over just to make sure it ended up center-back. I stamped out a little decorative basketweave to warm up my dexterity, and I also managed to hand-stitch this belt. I punched the holes using a Tippman Boss and then did a saddle-stitch by hand. I used a power burnisher on the edges and then finished up by hand. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result. This was meant as a test piece but turned into a functional, quality belt. Going forward, I would have used a different top coat as this one had discolored the lettering and turned the white into a cream-like color. Just remember that leatherwork is a marathon— not a race. Rushing and becoming careless is a recipe for injury. Don't underestimate your tools, they are made for cutting leather, and humans are just thin wet leather. Let me know what you think, thanks for reading!

Yep! Leather has just enough flexibility to friction fit, but not be a pain to remove.

Hey folks, I've been getting lots of requests for custom fitted holsters and I've been turning them away because I haven't made one for myself and not sure how I feel about the potential problems that could be brought up. What suggestions/resources do you folks have? How do you make sure the leather doesn't lose body and become dangerous over time? Do holsters require a lining? thanks

Thank you for your words. so I've experimented with multiple bags and it took me a while to figure out the method. You cannot use textured bags, as you have mentioned, due to the fact that the texture will imprint onto the leather in a very ugly fashion. Instead, purchase a bag without texture OR flip the bag inside out this project was made with the former method and you can't really tell. Yes, there are a bit of wrinkles at the bottom, but overall it's a very nice look. I try to massage the creases out with a folder to (some) success.

Good morning folks, My woman got me a vacuum sealer and I've been putting it to work lately. These two were a combination of vacuum sealed and worked by hand at the end. Two layers of 8-9oz veg-tan hand stitched with 0.8 thread and Solid Brass snaps. I'm working on getting a consistent and uniform appearance, and I think I'm improving each time I try Let me know your thoughts! And what would YOU price these at?

Hey Folks, I've been making quite a bit of wet-formed holsters recently and a customer had requested a glossier finish than my typical Tan-Kote... I've never done a shinier project, but I do have the Fiebing's Leather Balm. I've had great results at getting a good luster and color depth with the Leather Balm but there's one thing I'm wondering; Is it a conditioner, wax, or topcoat? I typically use Neatsfoot oil followed by Tan-Kote, can I do the same with the Leather Balm? it gives off a good shine and water repellence, but is this a topcoat on the same terms as Resolene and Tan-Kote? thanks for your time :)

Thank you for the insight, I always know when I see a notification from "kgg", it's gonna be worth reading. it is interesting though because my initial thoughts would be that stitching allows for greater weather/dirt/grime intrusion and could weaken over time in hard wear conditions like construction and such.

I'm talking to another person about how a decorative stitch line would be more detrimental to leather durability on a single layer 13oz belt than just to have a single strip of leather without any stitching. My reasoning is that adding an unnecessary stitchline is just adding a perforation to the leather and allowing greater water instrustion to the leather along with dirt and grit, whereas an unbroken strip wouldn't allow for this. Is there any resources on this to verify the validity of this claim? I've seen this during repair work many times, enough to see that adding unnecessary holes doesn't increase the strength. But I have never seen that a single of layer benefits from breaking the grain of the leather without reason. Would love to hear it discussed

Haven't posted any of my work on the site yet, so I felt this was a fine opportunity. Made this for a customer with a 46 inch waist. That's a LOT of tooling and hand-stitching! But well worth it. Two layers of 8-9oz veg-tan, along with brass hardware and 1mm braided thread at 5mm spacing. I'm pretty surprised at just how dark it came out, but i'm very happy with the result. This was my first 2 inch belt, so let me know how it looks

I just opened up half of it, and it appears to me that some of the gears are a little chewed up (although very accessible.) I gave it a decent cleaning and the previous grease was like tar.. but now it's oiled and running quite smooth. I'll be opening up the other half soon and doing the same thing, along with photos of the condition. As far as what I'll do with it, I'm not sure! I'm going to be driving 7 hours round trip today for a Landis 30 Splitter, so I will probably pass this machine on. No idea where to price, but let me know if you'd still be interested! It does work, and it splits quite nice. Just could use some more TLC

Yessir, that is correct. I'm on very good terms with my local shops. I've helped them out and they've helped me. I'm a sucker for Landis stuff but if this works, it'd be a shame not to put it back in service once again. I will say, I'm surprised at how thin it split, usually I see these machines have a lot of trouble getting that low. Can't imagine what it will be like with a sharpened blade and oil.

Just gave it a quick test with no oil, no adjustment, and it split 8oz right down to 1-2oz without marks. Now I'm even more excited to pop it open and see if you are correct in your hypothesis

I haven't opened it up yet, but I kind of doubt his claim... the skiver does not spin with the crank, but it DOES spin by hand with mild friction. I'll be opening it up tomorrow.

Hey Folks, Let's see some images first! anyway, I've been seeking a Landis Model 30 Splitter for sometime now and decided I'd go to my local shoe repair shops and find it in person; that's how I got my 5-in-1 after all. Well, one guy brought out this machine and said "This machine is missing the skiver gears but the splitter itself works." And gave it to me for free. There is a sticker that reads "Richard Hess - Magstadt Stuttgart" Only problem is that I don't know anything about it, and not much about it seems to come up on the internet. I'm hoping somebody who knows more than I can chime in and let me know. To be honest, I wouldn't be interested in keeping it around. thank you for your time. I'm still on the lookout for a decent Landis Splitter, but in the meantime maybe I'll clean it up

Hey Folks, I'm really interested in picking up a Landis Splitter. Where could I find one? Thanks

Thank you for your input once again Dwight! This seems like a really clever solution to this problem. I'll have to consider trying this out

I am trying to get both sides even for a stitchline. The two wet-formed faces are for different projects. I'm attempting symmetry, but can't quite get them figured out. I'm looking to get even edges so I can come in with wing dividers lined up to the edge to get equal distance around the wet form. hope this makes some kind of sense, thank you

Hey Folks I'm having a lot of trouble over here.. I've wet molded two sheathes and I just can't get them to line up correctly. I've taken them to the belt sander to try and line them up but I can't for the life of me get it right. I'd usually get wing dividers and run them along the side of the project for an accurate line but this object is round and there's no hard edge to follow.. and I don't want to leave scratch marks along the inside surface. what can I do here? Here is the project I'm working on

I picked up 346 thread and I am having problems with it. Both have been trouble but once I dial it in, the knot shows visibly in the middle in an ugly fashion. Tension on the top stitch doesn't seem too great, so I assume it's the bottom?

Hey everyone. Just picked up an older Tippmann Boss and been having trouble getting it where I want it. I cleaned and oiled it, and gave it a new needle as well as new thread (346 Tandy.) I just cannot get the tension where I want and as such, I am turning to the experienced for advice. I can get kinda close but I'm either getting loops up top, or below. Is it top tension? Or bottom? this is my first experience with a machine and I've been following the online guides to some success but can't quite iron it out. Photo Examples