LMullins

Wow! Thank you for sending the link... much appreciated! I know how it feels to try to go back and find stuff online. Always a hassle haha thanks! I'll be looking into it. How difficult was it to move? I'm sure I'm gonna need another person, but I'm just curious on how much manpower is necessary. I've hauled my fair share of equipment but never dealt with the Rapid E.

SOLD

Hey folks, as the title implies; I'm looking to transport a Landis Rapid E, probably by myself. I transported a Cobra Class 4 and Class 29-18 without help and it was no sweat to disassemble them and get them in the back of my SUV, but for the Landis Rapid E I'm not too sure. I've never used one, and never seen one (they are extremely scarce in my area) but this one is in working condition and the seller wants less than I paid for my Landis 5-in-1.. so it's a deal too good to pass up. to anyone with experience, how difficult is disassembly on one of these matches? I'd prefer not to transport it in one piece if I can avoid it. Thanks

Thanks!!

I perforated it with a machine and then finished by hand. No particular reason, just wanted to hand stitch this one.

Thank you. I always find the curves in particular to be the most difficult to work, whether it's sanding, burnishing, or tooling.

Hey Folks, I had a customer request that I make them a custom-fitted basketweave sheathe... there was just one problem.. See, this Hunting Knife was sentimental to them and they were unable to risk it getting lost or damaged in the mail, and they lived much too far to exchange in person so there was only one thing I could do. I had them take photos and map out measurements, and then I constructed a similar shape to the blade for reference and began working. In the end, the knife fit perfect and the thick sheathe came out beautiful. Looking back, I think I would've shortened the snap closure, but that's pretty tricky to get right when you don't physically have the knife in your possession. Let me know what you think!

Yes, it is still available. Sorry for the delayed response! Didn't have access to the internet for a bit there

Hey folks, Have you ever experienced Art block when it comes to leatherwork? Creating leather goods has been my passion for years and I love it. Whether making it for myself or doing it for my customers, it is my passion. Lately, I've been feeling like my head and hands are operating independently and I'm missing my creative flow. I'm still working through orders but with less efficiency. Have you ever experienced this? Was there anything that helped you escape the slump?

Thanks for the response! I may get both thread sizes just to see which I prefer. What needle size would you recommend for each thread size? Any suggestions?

Hey Folks, Managed to pick up a Cobra Class 29-18 for just $920 today. Pretty excited, I've been looking for a Singer 29k for months and just had to snatch this up. Anyway, I know there are folks on here that swear by their patchers and I'm looking for you folks to drop some of that knowledge. I have a Cobra Class 4, so this will not be pushed very far. Likely just wallets and boots/shoe repair. I'll likely have to file down the teeth since these impressions are SHARP, but aside from that.. I currently don't have thin enough thread for this machine (#69-#138) but I did thread it up with 207 and it faired pretty well considering it's outside the suggested limit. I'll be picking up some thread tomorrow, what would you folks recommend? As far as patchers go, should the bobbin thread be smaller than the top? #138 top and #92 bobbin?

Okay, I suppose I'll put $850 with room for negotiation

I just recently picked up a Cobra Class 4, as a result I no longer have a need for my Tippmann Boss. I picked up this machine and used it as a primary machine for a while, it was reliable and it's been kept in good working order. Well-oiled and parts were replaced as necessary. Comes with: -Flatbed Attachment -Flatbed Bracket -Flatbed Material Guide -2 Roller Guides -Drill Bobbin Winder -2 Bobbins -Original Manual -Allen Wrench Set -Center Presser Foot -Left Presser Foot -Fleece Center Foot I'll also throw in needles and thread for free so you can play with it immediately upon your return. I don't have a set price in mind, so feel free to shoot some offers. Local pickup preferred

That's a great deal! I'm in MA. I saw a Cobra Class 4 nearby within 30 minutes of the listing being posted, responded immediately and the seller left me on read and ghosted me. Next day, he messages me and says "sorry I sold it within 5 minutes of the post being up." 🤦‍♂️ Unlucky I guess 🤣

Hey Folks, To those that use Angelus Leather Paints (whether as part of carving, or painting an entire panel) What sort of finish have you experienced good results with? To my understanding, most people use Resolene or Acrylic finishers, but I've stuck by wax finishes. What has worked for you? Tan-Kote, Resolene, etc?

Hey Folks, I'm looking to upgrade to an industrial stitcher. I've been hand-sewing the majority of my projects and think it's about time to upgrade. I was looking at purchasing a brand new Cobra Class 26 w/ EPS but as soon as I went to purchase, the price increased by $275... plus the shipping to my area is quite high. in the meantime I did some research and was alerted to a Juki LS-341 for sale under $1000 with a new motor and supposedly in operational order. Now I'm not familiar with the Juki machines, so I've been reading up a bit but there's a few questions I'd like answered in a more straightforward way. Here's what I'm interested to know: 1. What are the main differences between the two? 2. What are the capabilities of the Juki compared to the Cobra? From what I see, the Cobra has a larger bobbin spool and can use a larger thread. 3. What should I be looking out for? 4. What thickness will it comfortably reach? Will the Juki handle 2 layers of 8oz? 5. Is this a good option for long runs of stitching? Such as gun belts, reins, etc.? 6. How do the machines compare to one another in terms of quality and performance? Thanks for answering. Ultimately, I'm looking for a reliable, consistent machine for belt runs that won't put up a fuss. Let me know what you folks have to share

SOLD

Yes, shipping, buyer pays. I'll go through any service in the U.S. Rest of details can be sorted in private message.

I was on a mission to obtain a Landis Model 30 when I came across this Splitter. I will come right out and say that I don't know a whole lot about this brand, and there's not a whole lot I can find about it. The skiver is currently inoperable, and the splitter gears are chewed up pretty good. I opened it up and it seems like an easy fix, just replace the two chewed up gears. I was able to crank it and get it to split 9-10oz shown in this photo very cleanly. I imagine it would be VERY easy to motorize, the person I got it from had one running on a belt with the wheel crank it came with. Don't know where to put the price, so I'll call it $700 since I'm mainly looking for offers so feel free to shoot. I'm not firm. Located in Massachusetts. Will accept trades locally.

If you plan on using Chicago screws, I advise you use a dab of Fiebing's leathercraft cement. I've had Chicago's back out on me at unfortunate timing, but the dab of glue helps provide enough resistance to keep it inside, but not too much that you can't get them out. if you do unscrew with the glue, it will resist and then *click* and unthread.

You remembered I have a boss, I applaud your memory! So, reason why is because I currently have the Boss set up for 2-3oz of 8 oz since I've been cranking out a lot of sheathes, and I did not want to dial it out of my current adjustment. I've been really liking the Tippmann and the folks on here really helped me when I started I'm looking to purchase a Cobra Class 26 specifically for belts.

Thanks! I forgot to include it in the post, but the keeper is attached with Chicago screws and has adjustable positions.

About two months ago I had cut my thumb because I was in a rush while cutting out a belt. I had a stressful workday, and just needed to get a commission done. I was unable to use my thumb, and as a result; I was unable to do any leatherwork. In the meantime, I was studying ways to improve my work. I started working on carving, and adding more customizable options to my work. Among those customizations was one from a customer, and that was lettering. Now, I've tooled a lot of belts before; but I never got a request for lettering until now. So naturally I picked up a set, and made a test piece. It was a little tricky, but I got the spacing just right after measuring probably 4 times over just to make sure it ended up center-back. I stamped out a little decorative basketweave to warm up my dexterity, and I also managed to hand-stitch this belt. I punched the holes using a Tippman Boss and then did a saddle-stitch by hand. I used a power burnisher on the edges and then finished up by hand. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result. This was meant as a test piece but turned into a functional, quality belt. Going forward, I would have used a different top coat as this one had discolored the lettering and turned the white into a cream-like color. Just remember that leatherwork is a marathon— not a race. Rushing and becoming careless is a recipe for injury. Don't underestimate your tools, they are made for cutting leather, and humans are just thin wet leather. Let me know what you think, thanks for reading!

Yep! Leather has just enough flexibility to friction fit, but not be a pain to remove.

Hey folks, I've been getting lots of requests for custom fitted holsters and I've been turning them away because I haven't made one for myself and not sure how I feel about the potential problems that could be brought up. What suggestions/resources do you folks have? How do you make sure the leather doesn't lose body and become dangerous over time? Do holsters require a lining? thanks