friquant

Cheap! Has it sewn recently, or has it been stored in a barn? (affects how much cleaning it needs). You could ask sellers of any of these to demo sewing five layers of vinyl. Another option is to post your own ad. By the way, do you enjoy fixing things?

Do you have any parallel sided screwdrivers? (Hollow ground) My first set of hollow ground was just whatever I could collect from all the stray screwdriver bit sets. Eventually had a variety of sizes.

The easy way to get even lift between the inner vs outer toe: Release the foot lifter Turn the handwheel forward until the needle point comes down and meets the plane of the throat plate Loosen the screw I pointed to in the photo. (If either presser was airborn, it will now drop to the throat plate) Tighten the screw

True. They show up pretty well with the macro camera lens, or through a jeweler's loupe. A tiny bit of progress..

When dremeling the slot, I would go all the way to the edge of the screw head. If you overrun and go into the eccentric a little bit that's okay too. Make the sides of the slot as vertical as possible. Do you have a flat-ended burr? You may be able to scrape the sides into better shape (with a flatter bottom) using a smaller flat screwdriver or the pointy end of a file. Can you post a photo of the screwdriver bit that you are using, next to the screw you are trying to remove? Ideally the bit would be the full width of the screw head, and the full thickness of the screw slot minus just enough to get in there. I would lay the machine on its front (make sure it's supported well, not resting on any delicate parts) so you can press down from above using your body weight. I've started using a drop of diesel instead of PB blaster. When removing stuck screws, I go one way then the other. Add more heat. We're talking kitchen-sized torch, not cigar lighter. And consider the manual impact driver.

As for removing the screw with the mangled head, has anybody tried a manual impact driver on their sewing machines? https://www.amazon.com/LEONTOOL-Extractor-Reversible-Screwdriver-Fasteners/dp/B0CTXD91YW

To change the relative lift, you will need to loosen the clamp screw at the top of this crank arm.

Okay I see it now. As though they pounded a pin in, then ground the ends off. That would explain the surrounding texture. Here's a view of each side

I see it now, too. Sort of a brown circle, midway of the shaft on the left. It's a tapered pin and I can't tell you which way. Are y'all talking about the two brown patches on opposing sides of the shaft, as seen in the video? 27-arm-shaft.mp4

One-piece casting: sturdy!

It does look that way in the photo, but I've checked and those holes go all the way to the shaft. (A bit of lint in the bottom of the holes casting shadows). Are there parts manuals for these old machines? All I've seen is the user manual: https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/singer-model-27-number-2-vibrating-shuttle-sewing-machine-manual.pdf which does have somewhat of a drawing

How to remove the arm shaft from a Singer 27 ? Normally, I repair machines leaving them mostly assembled. To step outside of my comfort zone I decided to take one apart. I'm already dreaming of how clean I'll be able to get all the pieces ✨ But it's not clear to me how this arm shaft comes off. In the picture on the left, those two holes go all the way to the shaft. (Oil holes, I presume) 27-arm-shaft.mp4 There are few things inside that have to come loose also, but I'd like to get the arm shaft on its way out first: I think the arm shaft comes out the front of the machine. I removed the set screw just to the left of center in this photo: Inside the nose, with needle bar and presser bar removed: A couple interesting things about this machine, is it has a cam for the takeup lever, and a shuttle for the bobbin:

What browser are you using?

Is the brake optional on a clutch motor? I've been working on my clutch motor skills. In part to be better qualified to write this blog article: https://leatherworker.net/forum/blogs/entry/516-option-c-clutch-motor/ , and in part to satisfy curiosity. I've greased the pivot points and the main slide sleeve to improve the control and feel. I've slowed it down. I've backed off the slack adjuster in the brake far enough that I can consistently release the brake pressure when I want to use the hand wheel. But I keep asking myself, "Do I really need this brake?" The universal motor with triac speed control (aka "analog servo" aka "brushed servo") that I had for a few weeks also came with a brake shoe that activated whenever I was not on the gas. With that motor, I liked it better after I removed the brake shoe entirely. So I've been wondering, what is a straightforward way to remove the braking effect from a clutch motor, and are there any known downsides to doing so?

What error message do you get when attaching

Do you mind posting a photo of the top of your machine?

On my singer 144, the needle top of stroke happens 55 degrees before the takeup lever reaches its highest point. This video by @Gymnast is also informative:

You might look at Adler 669 Adler 105-25 Cowboy cb246 Jianglong 246 Jianglong 341 Jianglong 1341 Cowboy cb227r cowboy cb341 cowboy cb1341 Techsew 4800 Cobra class 26 Pfaff 335 Typical TW3-P335 Necchi 840-100

Tell us about the leg bags. Boat seats are typical "upholstery" which works great on a flatbed walking foot. But when you start talking bags then you have gussets. And if you've ever stitched a stiff gusset on a bag with a flatbed machine you will wish for a cylinder bed or post bed. 😀 What type of images? What is the filesize? Sometimes there are filesize restrictions, so scaling the image down to 1000x1000 pixels gets it under the bar.

Ah yes. On other machines, this is called the needle guard. Its purpose is to prevent the hook from stabbing the needle. Whereas the hook is very hard and fairly brittle, the needle guard is soft and malleable. You can bend the needle guard out of the way just a smidge, move the hook saddle closer to the needle so the hook point rubs a little on the needle, then bend the needle guard back so that the needle guard pushes the needle to the side just a bit as the hook comes by and the hook point just misses the needle. Here's a video by Uwe, known as "Stuffing the Hook" And some references: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/47477-211g155-do-i-have-the-wrong-machine/page/6/#findComment-304044 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65973-video-how-the-hook-catches-the-thread-loop/#findComment-428831 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65973-video-how-the-hook-catches-the-thread-loop/#findComment-428844 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65997-video-sewing-veg-tan-leather-on-a-consew-225/#findComment-429071 https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/131796-singer-211-u166a-walking-foot-problem/page/3/#findComment-785084

Trust the machine. (not the motor haha) To understand when is an appropriate time in the stitch cycle to pull your material free, you can stitch slowly (handwheel!) with the bobbin cover removed. I both start and end my seams with the takeup lever at the top of the stroke. Depending on which model of digital servo motor you have, there may be adjustment within the menu to configure how much rotation happens between what the servo considers Needle UP vs Needle Down. I suppose in my wildest dreams a needle positioner might default stop for needle down a little after the hook point grabs the thread. Then when I heel tap it would first rotate to where the takeup lever is at its highest point (to lock the last stitch), then reverse ten or twenty degrees and come to a stop when the needle is at its highest position so it's easy to pull the material out. ☺️

This cradle that I built to support the machine while working on it works fairly well as an assist for dropping the machine into the hole. That means your table is too pretty. Make it work! And I've been dragging things across the table, enough that I got a remark, "We're going to have to repaint that top" 😁🫢

Looks like two good machines to me! I'm also considering selling a head unit, as I don't have enough tables. To really outfit someone well, I would sell them a head unit + table + digital servo motor.

I'm not sure what you mean by hits the hook washer. Perhaps you can include some close-up photographs? On my Jianglong 341 I had to slide the feed eccentric farther down the hook driving shaft before I could move the hook close enough to touch the needle.

More specifically, what do you want to make out of the ballistic nylon and harness leather? What is the maximum total thickness (folds included) that you want to be able to stitch? The Pfaff 145 is a flatbed machine which is fine for upholstery jobs. Cylinder bed machines are more versatile for making three-dimensional objects, like sewing gussets on bags. Wiz' famous topic is worth a gander: